STICKY Share Your 3D Design Files (or Sell a DIY Part)

After the last long-winded post, here's a companion post, also highly customized to my own particular setup.

I have the magsafe wallet on the back of my iPhone, and have to take it off to put it into the above phone holder, and needed a place to put it. So I made a simple tray that slides into the mostly useless slot under my single din radio dash adapter. I'm not sure which adapter this is since the PO added it (likely Metra?), but if you've got the same one and want to make the slot under your radio slightly more useful, here, have this tray. It doubles as a convenient place to hang my sunglasses.

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Went through some transmission problems with the ol six speed, and removing the butt plug or whatever it's called was such a frustrating process (including a screwdriver and a heat gun), I decided not to put it back in until things were 100% done. Since I swapped transmissions (and will need to swap again), added the B&M shifter, replaced the floorpan gasket, replaced the leather bag, etc.

Sorry, I ramble.

Anyway, I printed a little temporary plug in TPU to fill the space so driving it didn't annoy me in the meantime. Maybe you'll get some use out of this little butt plug, too. Sorry I don't have a better name for it. Please ignore my unmanicured nails. I can't afford to go to the salon because my transmission keeps breaking.

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What a champ, gave me everything.

But how I can use my phone for scanning, I have an Iphone 12 Pro Max that has a Lidar sensor (I think most of the Pro Max models have it) abd use PolyCam to take advantage of it to 3D scan items.

You can then export the scan as an STL, for this application you can use it to cut the curve into another model in something like Fusion or FreeCAD.

I do it very rarely so Ill have to remember how to do it.

I probably wont sell them to be honest, don’t have the time or need. But Ill toss the new model back out here once I get it all set up and tested.

Thanks to @hear for calling me out with that reaction....

I totally forgot about this, Ill need to pull my Iphone out of the "Old Phone Drawer" and start doing this.... dammit....
 
When I bought my Jeep about nine years ago, it came with aftermarket Sony Xplod 5.25" speakers and grills in the sound pods. The Sony grills were never really my style, so when I recently upgraded to Kicker 5.25s that didn’t include grills, I decided to design my own. I only prototyped in PLA (which I don’t recommend for final use), but they should print well in PETG, ABS, or ABS-GF. Tree supports recommended, obviously.

In the end, I moved the 5.25s to the front using the 3D-printed pods shared in this forum, and installed 6.5” Kickers in the rear pods instead. Those new speakers came with grills I like, so this project became a bit of a side quest that I didn’t finish out for my own use. Still, I’m sharing the files here in case anyone else likes the design and can make use of them.

There are two versions of the grill included—one has a “SpeakerB*tch” badge, which was the official codename of the project (an inside joke with my friends, and also because I find foul language hilarious). The other version is unbranded—a plain, family-friendly, G-rated option for those who prefer something less obnoxious.

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I almost hesitate to share this because it is so *very* particularly aimed at my own custom solution and my personal mission to have a phone mount that meets all of my own personal criteria. Once I dialed it in for my needs, I don't really plan to adjust it any longer for anyone else. That said, here, have some files. :ROFLMAO:

For me, this is what constitutes the perfect phone mount. Your opinion might differ, but this is what I wanted:
  1. First and foremost, I loathe cases and don't want one on my phone.
  2. Wanted a flawless fit for my iPhone 15 Pro Max in landscape mode.
  3. Wanted a Qi2 magsafe charger to hold it in place and charge it, but super easy to place and remove.
  4. Wanted to be able to switch to portrait mode briefly to do things like reconnect bluetooth.
  5. Don't want it to budge or wiggle even a fraction of a millimeter while driving.
  6. If a major bump or accident occurs and the magnet lets go, I want it to just fall into the tray below it, and hopefully minimize damage to the device. Barring a rollover, but I'd imagine a cracked phone screen is the least of my worries that day.
  7. Easy to swap out the base if my next phone doesn't share the same dimensions.
Thus began my quest. I knew the perfect phone mount for me probably didn't exist, and I'd have to make it. And here it is:

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Three STLs are included: 1 - Holder and Base, 2 - Qi2 holder for the back, 3 - a 1mm TPU gasket I printed just for S&G

I bought this particular aftermarket tray and wanted to use the same mounting holes that secure the tray to the Jeep's top (useless) coin tray. I used 8-32 x 1-1/2" pan stainless hardware and nyloc nuts (and a few washers) to go through the coin tray, the aftermarket tray, the tpu gasket, and the two parts of the holder. The first version was still wobbly (UNACCEPTABLE) so the second version incorporated two additional holes with a wider bottom base that takes up the majority of the tray space and added two rear bolts that I only drilled into the aftermarket tray (not the fragile 20 year old coin tray), and used shorter 8-32 x 3/4" hardware with nyloc nuts.

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This is a link to the Qi2 Magsafe charger I used. I purchased it hoping the suction cup arm was stable enough not to annoy me, but no such luck. The magnet was strong as a mofo, though, so I cannibalized it and used its own mounting hardware to help secure it.

That's pretty much it. If you're someone that wants this very particular phone mount solution, and already own or want to buy the very same particular parts that I used, I'm sharing the files with the world, and you're welcome to them. Happy to answer any questions if anybody has them, like "Why would you do this?" or "Were you not hugged enough as a child?"

But it is 100% what I wanted and envisioned it could be, and I'm very happy with it. So I'm sharing!

ChatGPT generated tl;dr bullet list:
  • Designed specifically for my Jeep and my needs — not meant to be universal
  • No phone case – mount holds bare iPhone 15 Pro Max (landscape by default)
  • Uses a Qi2 MagSafe charger (strong magnet, easy snap-in/out)
  • Portrait mode possible for quick tasks like Bluetooth pairing
  • Zero wiggle – revised base adds rear support bolts for rock-solid mount
  • Failsafe drop zone – phone falls into tray if magnet fails (no damage)
  • Easy to swap out base if next phone has different size
  • Mounts using aftermarket coin tray holes and added rear bolts
  • Includes 3 STL files: mount + base, Qi2 holder, and 1mm TPU gasket
  • Used 8-32 stainless hardware with nyloc nuts; detailed in full post
  • Qi2 charger was cannibalized from a suction mount (link included in post)
  • If you’re weird like me, enjoy the files — I won't be customizing further
  • Ask questions like: "Why tho?" or "Who hurt you?"
Addendum: Obviously don't print this in PLA unless you want it to melt. But you knew that already.

Great job with this. I don't use MagSafe charging as I prefer to let my rechargeables get below 10% before charging so dropping on the charge every time I get in the Jeep would work. No idea where I got that habit but it has worked for me for as long as I have been charging shit so I continue. Right or wrong on my charging habits.. I love what you did.

I use a Scosche magnet mount on the front of a tray similar to yours. I too dislike cases but do use an ultra thin Aramid Fiber case so I need one of those magnetic plates behind the case to secure the phone to the mount. Kind of kills the MagSafe option. That said, I want to use a MagSafe wallet so my setup might need to change.

That wasn't the intent of my post. You mention having to flip the phone to manage BT connection and I thought you might be able to benefit from using NFC tags. I use them everywhere. Really cheap. No battery to tend to. Hide them virtually any place. Script them to run a personal automation and/or shortcut to do virtually anything including the settings you need to connect to BT, your head unit, travel directions, switch your music source, switch to a podcast, control a Smart Home, garage door etc.. Get in, tap the phone to the NFC tag and be done... Maybe just stick one to the mount you made at the head end of where your phone sits so the script runs every time you put the phone in the mount. You could (I do) have multiple tags in the Jeep. Easier to tap the tag(s) and go then fuss with navigating the phone screen

Would love to know more about the screen setup.. how are you displaying the speed in the center?
 
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Great job with this. I don't use MagSafe charging as I prefer to let my rechargeables get below 10% before charging so dropping on the charge every time I get in the Jeep would work. No idea where I got that habit but it has worked for me for as long as I have been charging shit so I continue. Right or wrong on my charging habits.. I love what you did.

I use a Scosche magnet mount on the front of a tray similar to yours. I too dislike cases but do use an ultra thin Aramid Fiber case so I need one of those magnetic plates behind the case to secure the phone to the mount. Kind of kills the MagSafe option. That said, I want to use a MagSafe wallet so my setup might need to change.

That wasn't the intent of my post. You mention having to flip the phone to manage BT connection and I thought you might be able to benefit from using NFC tags. I use them everywhere. Really cheap. No battery to tend to. Hide them virtually any place. Script them to run a personal automation and/or shortcut to do virtually anything including the settings you need to connect to BT, your head unit, travel directions, switch your music source, switch to a podcast, control a Smart Home, garage door etc.. Get in, tap the phone to the NFC tag and be done... Maybe just stick one to the mount you made at the head end of where your phone sits so the script runs every time you put the phone in the mount. You could (I do) have multiple tags in the Jeep. Easier to tap the tag(s) and go then fuss with navigating the phone screen

Would love to know more about the screen setup.. how are you displaying the speed in the center?

I like the NFC idea, thanks for sharing that. I've just started messing around with them about a week ago, 3D printing them into some keychains. I'll look into how I can start incorporating these.

I used to be the same with charging, and was sketchy of MagSafe in general, but in my old age, I've started caring less, and only keep each phone around 2 years, sometimes 3 ... and the difference in battery longevity seems to be negligible. The reason I've switched to charging while using the phone for longer drives has a lot to do with your LAST question about the screen setup.

One of the reasons I love my crappy little $88 scratch and dent Pioneer Marine unit so much is that, besides looking very unassuming, it comes with a Pioneer companion app called Smart Sync. I would *LOVE* a new wireless carplay unit, and have shelled out for it in other vehicles, but in a soft top Jeep, nothing is ever really locked. The Smart Sync app brings those touchscreen features, for better or worse, to the phone itself. Honestly, I'm just in it for the album art, and prefer the physical buttons on the deck itself.

It's got a few different screens to display this info, but I've been liking this style lately. The speedo here is GPS driven and I'd say "mostly" accurate, and probably closer than my real speedo, since I'm "still getting around to" correcting the speed after the 35s. Waiting on a change to 4.88s first. The app also has integration with bluetooth OBD2 scanners, the app can tell you which ones to buy, and can set up alternate gauge screens. I've hooked this up and used it a few times, but I forget to take the scanner out when I'm done and drained my battery ... twice.

And seeing as how I'll sometimes hop in the Jeep and go for a few-hour drive, or out on the trail, sometimes using maps ... a few hours at max brightness in the Florida sun, my battery would be under 50% by the time I got there. I tried the first gen Qi magsafe chargers and the juice was only strong enough to hold battery life steady, not really charge it. The Qi2 can actually add some juice on the drive. Haven't tested it out on longer drives ... yet ... but I assume in direct sunlight on a Qi2 charger, it might get a little hot, then I can just pull the USB-C out and retain the benefit of the strong magnet for holding it in. And I'm brainstorming a little fold-out sun shield to see if I can reduce the amount of heat from the bombardment of the sunlight as well.

Yeah ... long story short Pioneer Smart Sync App! My deck (Pioneer MVH-MS310BT) has been discontinued, and its replacement is more expensive and it looks like they ditched physical buttons in favor of a touch strip (booooo). But even after several years, they're still including the app with newer models and still updating it. I suspect they'll eventually abandon it completely, but hoping it will continue to work long after they've moved on.
 
Hi Everyone,

Background:
Planning to 3D print a modified windshield hinge A-pillar mount to flatten the lamp mounting surface and also extend the length so a set of KC Daylighters will fit. Current condition the lights interfere with with windshield hinge.

With that said, I wanted to ask the group for any company/website recommendations that 3D print metal?

Thx,

Scott

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I wasn't wearing my reading glasses when I first saw your post and thought, "Seems and odd flex, mounting an oven thermometer on the passenger side A-pillar; maybe he likes analog gear and camps where it's really hot"; so when I enlarged the picture I was like, "Ok, that makes more sense."
 
Hi Everyone,

Background:
Planning to 3D print a modified windshield hinge A-pillar mount to flatten the lamp mounting surface and also extend the length so a set of KC Daylighters will fit. Current condition the lights interfere with with windshield hinge.

With that said, I wanted to ask the group for any company/website recommendations that 3D print metal?

Thx,

Scott

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I see YouTubers shilling for https://www.pcbway.com/ quite often. Not sure of pricing on a part like you want, though. Good luck!

I've heard of https://www.xometry.com/ and https://www.shapeways.com/ in addition to PCBway.
 
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I am finally getting around to finishing the center console cubby after installing a new sub under the armrest. The factory cubby is too deep in one spot with the new sub installed, and I just hated the layout anyway. I also integrated a new rear tab to extend to where the lid mounts so I can use some heat-set inserts to attach it instead of the metal screw clips that are all wallowed out. Final version is in the printer now.......so in a short 17 hours I will have a new part. Don't mind the quality, this was a test fit part printed in very fast draft mode.

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I am finally getting around to finishing the center console cubby after installing a new sub under the armrest. The factory cubby is too deep in one spot with the new sub installed, and I just hated the layout anyway. I also integrated a new rear tab to extend to where the lid mounts so I can use some heat-set inserts to attach it instead of the metal screw clips that are all wallowed out. Final version is in the printer now.......so in a short 17 hours I will have a new part. Don't mind the quality, this was a test fit part printed in very fast draft mode.

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Very cool! What material are you using for the final print? My X didn't come with the sub, so mine is essentially a super deep bucket where everything I am looking for sinks to the bottom. I need to take some time to design and print something to organize it better, I might take a few cues from your design.
 
The final print is ABS-GF just because I find it really easy to print and I have a light grey color in stock. I was going print it with a PA6, but all I have is black and I wanted a lighter color to make it easier to find stuff. I will post up my files to Printables (and link it here) when it is complete including the Fusion file, but I will warn you that my modeling skills are crap and my timeline may make you really sad when you look at it. You could at least use the top section of my model as the fitment is pretty good, just cut off the bottom and create your own version. I actually did that a couple times because my model is soo poorly done but I did not want to start over.
 
The final print is ABS-GF just because I find it really easy to print and I have a light grey color in stock. I was going print it with a PA6, but all I have is black and I wanted a lighter color to make it easier to find stuff. I will post up my files to Printables (and link it here) when it is complete including the Fusion file, but I will warn you that my modeling skills are crap and my timeline may make you really sad when you look at it. You could at least use the top section of my model as the fitment is pretty good, just cut off the bottom and create your own version. I actually did that a couple times because my model is soo poorly done but I did not want to start over.

I promise I won't mock your Fusion skills. I'm still learning Fusion but keep defaulting to Tinkercad. 🤣 I've only started using the ABS-GF recently and I really like the texture and strength. Definitely the right tool for the job!
 
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Hi Everyone,

Background:
Planning to 3D print a modified windshield hinge A-pillar mount to flatten the lamp mounting surface and also extend the length so a set of KC Daylighters will fit. Current condition the lights interfere with with windshield hinge.

With that said, I wanted to ask the group for any company/website recommendations that 3D print metal?

Thx,

Scott

View attachment 621179

If it is something that can be/should be metal, Send Cut Send is great. They have a bunch of services.
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