Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

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Oh, not really having issues with the actual logo washing out. I'm amazed by the print quality of the X1C compared to my old cheap Anycubic Kobra. But when installed they don't make a difference. Both of these attempts, when I put them over the bulb, you can't make out the logo on the floor at all. Makes me think those lights in new cars are using some sort of lens system or something.

At this point, I've given up on this, at least for the moment. Have other things I need to print.
View attachment 577386

Kinda died from the forums for a bit through this month, but they look good!

The white one might just be washing out thanks to the weird light issues of filament.

Ill screw around with LED bulbs and probably replacing the black with a solid material to prevent any light leakage.
 
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Just realized I posted my latest design in the other 3d printing thread instead of here where we collect all the parts.

Here's my new EP26 LED flasher mount. Mounts it like the original relay was mounted. Relay just press-fits into the mount from the bottom, as the relay is slightly tapered.

PXL_20241228_202037590.jpg


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Just realized I posted my latest design in the other 3d printing thread instead of here where we collect all the parts.

Here's my new EP26 LED flasher mount. Mounts it like the original relay was mounted. Relay just press-fits into the mount from the bottom, as the relay is slightly tapered.

Thanks for sharing. I added it to the list.
 
I made another thing. I've got an aftermarket Double DIN head unit, and the Metra 95-6549 Double DIN dash kit. The kit comes with two useless panels for where the ashtray went, so I used their panel as a template and designed my own so I could put the HDMI & USB-C inputs for the head unit there.

It works pretty well, though someday I might try and inset the panel similar to how the cigarette lighter panel is so I can get the connector inset and vertical. But for now, this works. STL attached.

View attachment 561016

I appreciate the STL, what did you use to finish out around the jack?
 
OK design Gods, I am trying to re-make the bin in the center console to make better use of the space in the console (by making a bigger bin) since I have removed my sub.
How the heck do you create the dip at the front in Fusion? I am still learning Fusion and I think this one has me beat for now.

Would you create a sketch from the side and extrude sideways? I have been trying to sketch the top down, then extrude down and hollow it out, but I can't get the swoop at the front. I wanted to use a loft, but I can't seem to make that work.

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Ok, so I took a little break and came back to it. I think I have made some progress, but this one is making mew work.... That is enough for tonight.
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OK, no really I am going to bed now. I have to work in the morning....
2025-01-01_22h54_56.png
 
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OK design Gods, I am trying to re-make the bin in the center console to make better use of the space in the console (by making a bigger bin) since I have removed my sub.
How the heck do you create the dip at the front in Fusion? I am still learning Fusion and I think this one has me beat for now.

Would you create a sketch from the side and extrude sideways? I have been trying to sketch the top down, then extrude down and hollow it out, but I can't get the swoop at the front. I wanted to use a loft, but I can't seem to make that work.

View attachment 582993
View attachment 582994
View attachment 582995

Ok, so I took a little break and came back to it. I think I have made some progress, but this one is making mew work.... That is enough for tonight.
View attachment 582998

OK, no really I am going to bed now. I have to work in the morning....
View attachment 583000

If I was doing it I would sketch what I wanted to remove on the side and extrude a cut thru all across the part
 
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If I was doing it I would sketch what I wanted to remove on the side and extrude a cut thru all across the part

Yep, that is what I ended up doing. I was thinking there would be an elegant way to do it (and there probably is), but after messing with it way too long I just went TinkerCAD on it's ass.
 
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Here's my latest designs - replacement pins for the sun visors. The one on the left is the original part from my one remaining good visor. The middle one is a version where I successfully modeled the rotating end of the original. And the one on the right was my first try, which is just a solid, one piece pin.

I printed the solid one, and the base of the rotating one in PETG. The cap of the rotating version I printed in TPU, in order to snap it over the clip that holds it on the base. I snapped it onto the base when it was still warm straight off the printer, it went on real easy but I can't get it back off, tolerances are kind of tight. I couldn't get a PETG cap to go onto the base at all, it wasn't flexible enough.

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I would LOVE an 8" sub enclosure, that would fit in the stock center console location.
I'm not an acoustic engineer but an enclosure with a matching passive radiator on the opposite side may give better results.
 
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I designed a simple 1mm spacer to further separate the two contact pads for the TJ horn switch. This works for a '98 at least, but hopefully it works for other model years. If you'd like to learn more, I created a thread in the how-to section on how to gain access to the horn switch.

3D printed spacer.jpg
Horn Switch Disassembled.jpg
 

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I designed a simple 1mm spacer to further separate the two contact pads for the TJ horn switch. This works for a '98 at least, but hopefully it works for other model years. If you'd like to learn more, I created a thread in the how-to section on how to gain access to the horn switch.

View attachment 601281View attachment 601282

Thanks. Got a link to that other thread you mentioned? I'll update the first post of this thread.
 
Bump. What new files can we put on the list?

IMG_5951.png


I almost hesitate to share this because it is so *very* particularly aimed at my own custom solution and my personal mission to have a phone mount that meets all of my own personal criteria. Once I dialed it in for my needs, I don't really plan to adjust it any longer for anyone else. That said, here, have some files. :ROFLMAO:

For me, this is what constitutes the perfect phone mount. Your opinion might differ, but this is what I wanted:
  1. First and foremost, I loathe cases and don't want one on my phone.
  2. Wanted a flawless fit for my iPhone 15 Pro Max in landscape mode.
  3. Wanted a Qi2 magsafe charger to hold it in place and charge it, but super easy to place and remove.
  4. Wanted to be able to switch to portrait mode briefly to do things like reconnect bluetooth.
  5. Don't want it to budge or wiggle even a fraction of a millimeter while driving.
  6. If a major bump or accident occurs and the magnet lets go, I want it to just fall into the tray below it, and hopefully minimize damage to the device. Barring a rollover, but I'd imagine a cracked phone screen is the least of my worries that day.
  7. Easy to swap out the base if my next phone doesn't share the same dimensions.
Thus began my quest. I knew the perfect phone mount for me probably didn't exist, and I'd have to make it. And here it is:

IMG_0080.JPG


Three STLs are included: 1 - Holder and Base, 2 - Qi2 holder for the back, 3 - a 1mm TPU gasket I printed just for S&G

I bought this particular aftermarket tray and wanted to use the same mounting holes that secure the tray to the Jeep's top (useless) coin tray. I used 8-32 x 1-1/2" pan stainless hardware and nyloc nuts (and a few washers) to go through the coin tray, the aftermarket tray, the tpu gasket, and the two parts of the holder. The first version was still wobbly (UNACCEPTABLE) so the second version incorporated two additional holes with a wider bottom base that takes up the majority of the tray space and added two rear bolts that I only drilled into the aftermarket tray (not the fragile 20 year old coin tray), and used shorter 8-32 x 3/4" hardware with nyloc nuts.

IMG_0097.JPG


This is a link to the Qi2 Magsafe charger I used. I purchased it hoping the suction cup arm was stable enough not to annoy me, but no such luck. The magnet was strong as a mofo, though, so I cannibalized it and used its own mounting hardware to help secure it.

That's pretty much it. If you're someone that wants this very particular phone mount solution, and already own or want to buy the very same particular parts that I used, I'm sharing the files with the world, and you're welcome to them. Happy to answer any questions if anybody has them, like "Why would you do this?" or "Were you not hugged enough as a child?"

But it is 100% what I wanted and envisioned it could be, and I'm very happy with it. So I'm sharing!

ChatGPT generated tl;dr bullet list:
  • Designed specifically for my Jeep and my needs — not meant to be universal
  • No phone case – mount holds bare iPhone 15 Pro Max (landscape by default)
  • Uses a Qi2 MagSafe charger (strong magnet, easy snap-in/out)
  • Portrait mode possible for quick tasks like Bluetooth pairing
  • Zero wiggle – revised base adds rear support bolts for rock-solid mount
  • Failsafe drop zone – phone falls into tray if magnet fails (no damage)
  • Easy to swap out base if next phone has different size
  • Mounts using aftermarket coin tray holes and added rear bolts
  • Includes 3 STL files: mount + base, Qi2 holder, and 1mm TPU gasket
  • Used 8-32 stainless hardware with nyloc nuts; detailed in full post
  • Qi2 charger was cannibalized from a suction mount (link included in post)
  • If you’re weird like me, enjoy the files — I won't be customizing further
  • Ask questions like: "Why tho?" or "Who hurt you?"
Addendum: Obviously don't print this in PLA unless you want it to melt. But you knew that already.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
View attachment 619626

I almost hesitate to share this because it is so *very* particularly aimed at my own custom solution and my personal mission to have a phone mount that meets all of my own personal criteria. Once I dialed it in for my needs, I don't really plan to adjust it any longer for anyone else. That said, here, have some files. :ROFLMAO:

For me, this is what constitutes the perfect phone mount. Your opinion might differ, but this is what I wanted:
  1. First and foremost, I loathe cases and don't want one on my phone. The only time I ever broke my back glass was when I had a magnetic case on it, and it fell off in the Jeep and hit the floor.
  2. Wanted a flawless fit for my iPhone 15 Pro Max in landscape mode.
  3. Wanted a Qi2 magsafe charger to hold it in place and charge it, but super easy to place and remove.
  4. Wanted to be able to switch to portrait mode briefly to do things like reconnect bluetooth.
  5. Don't want it to budge or wiggle even a fraction of a millimeter while driving.
  6. If a major bump or accident occurs and the magnet lets go, I want it to just fall into the tray below it, and hopefully minimize damage to the device. Barring a rollover, but I'd imagine a cracked phone screen is the least of my worries that day.
  7. Easy to swap out the base if my next phone doesn't share the same dimensions.
Thus began my quest. I knew the perfect phone mount for me probably didn't exist, and I'd have to make it. And here it is:

View attachment 619627

Three STLs are included: 1 - Holder and Base, 2 - Qi2 holder for the back, 3 - a 1mm TPU gasket I printed just for S&G

I bought this particular aftermarket tray and wanted to use the same mounting holes that secure the tray to the Jeep's top (useless) coin tray. I used 8-32 x 1-1/2" pan stainless hardware and nyloc nuts (and a few washers) to go through the coin tray, the aftermarket tray, the tpu gasket, and the two parts of the holder. The first version was still wobbly (UNACCEPTABLE) so the second version incorporated two additional holes with a wider bottom base that takes up the majority of the tray space and added two rear bolts that I only drilled into the aftermarket tray (not the fragile 20 year old coin tray), and used shorter 8-32 x 3/4" hardware with nyloc nuts.

View attachment 619628

This is a link to the Qi2 Magsafe charger I used. I purchased it hoping the suction cup arm was stable enough not to annoy me, but no such luck. The magnet was strong as a mofo, though, so I cannibalized it and used its own mounting hardware to help secure it.

That's pretty much it. If you're someone that wants this very particular phone mount solution, and already own or want to buy the very same particular parts that I used, I'm sharing the files with the world, and you're welcome to them. Happy to answer any questions if anybody has them, like "Why would you do this?" or "Were you not hugged enough as a child?"

But it is 100% what I wanted and envisioned it could be, and I'm very happy with it. So I'm sharing!

ChatGPT generated tl;dr bullet list:
  • Designed specifically for my Jeep and my needs — not meant to be universal
  • No phone case – mount holds bare iPhone 15 Pro Max (landscape by default)
  • Uses a Qi2 MagSafe charger (strong magnet, easy snap-in/out)
  • Portrait mode possible for quick tasks like Bluetooth pairing
  • Zero wiggle – revised base adds rear support bolts for rock-solid mount
  • Failsafe drop zone – phone falls into tray if magnet fails (no damage)
  • Easy to swap out base if next phone has different size
  • Mounts using aftermarket coin tray holes and added rear bolts
  • Includes 3 STL files: mount + base, Qi2 holder, and 1mm TPU gasket
  • Used 8-32 stainless hardware with nyloc nuts; detailed in full post
  • Qi2 charger was cannibalized from a suction mount (link included in post)
  • If you’re weird like me, enjoy the files — I won't be customizing further
  • Ask questions like: "Why tho?" or "Who hurt you?"
Addendum: Obviously don't print this in PLA unless you want it to melt. But you knew that already.

Wow! That is super nice! Well done! 🤜🏻🤛🏻
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts