Gen III Hemi Swap into TJ Reference Guide & Swap Info

Thanks for the explanation. My tranny is an 05 and I was not aware of a ratio change.

I have 4.56’s with a metric 35 inch tire and I am pretty happy with the combo but I don’t do anything close to what some of you do with your rigs.

Just an FYI since we are talking about overdrive. My recent harness from Hotwire does enable OD via the factory OD off button, just no light.

I think GrimmJeeper is incorrect on the gearing changes... All my searches on the 545RFE say that they all had the 0.067 5th O/D so I'm not sure where he got that info from. So I'm sticking with the early model gearing.

I like the idea of the 4.7:1 1st gear of the 8HP70. Talk about a crawl ratio..
 
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I can't speak to the Hemi but on the Magnum V-8's the guys who kept their stock TJ exhaust & then later swapped to a 3" exhaust noticed a marked difference power by doing so. If it was mine I'd seriously look at swapping to a 3" exhaust.



I guess I hadn't paid attention to this as I'd always thought you'd done a 3" exhaust... And YES fitting it is a huge PITA...

I ran 3” for the entire exhaust…it was a PITA but worth it. Running a magna flow muffler and it’s very quiet at idle and has a nice rumble when getting on it.
 
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I ran 3” for the entire exhaust…it was a PITA but worth it. Running a magna flow muffler and it’s very quiet at idle and has a nice rumble when getting on it.

I ordered the Flowmaster that Nashville recommended and runs today. Found a few videos and like how it sounds and Flowmaster says no drone. Getting it installed Wednesday morning. I have had Magnafow in the past and was always satisfied.
 
I'm glad I reached out to Sound German Automotive but I think they aren't Jeep orientated nor low gearing & larger tires. After talking with the people with JK's or JL's & low gears & big tires I feel better about this swap.

Not sure how the OEM shifter would mount with the Genright console but really all you need is a flat surface with enough surface area to attach the four bolts.

The stock console turned out to be way easier than I originally thought. I just traced out a piece of aluminum to cover the 5 speed hole, installed nut inserts, and even reused the boot.

View attachment 581351

How was it getting things hooked up? I know on newer rigs there's the CanBus that get's hooked up but on my TJ I don't think there's anything available even though it's got the Hemi PCM? Or is there CanBus wiring in there?
 
I'm glad I reached out to Sound German Automotive but I think they aren't Jeep orientated nor low gearing & larger tires. After talking with the people with JK's or JL's & low gears & big tires I feel better about this swap.



How was it getting things hooked up? I know on newer rigs there's the CanBus that get's hooked up but on my TJ I don't think there's anything available even though it's got the Hemi PCM? Or is there CanBus wiring in there?

I would call Jeep Speed Shop and get their opinion. Probably call Hotwire too. They may not have the hardware to help but they know things.
 
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I would call Jeep Speed Shop and get their opinion. Probably call Hotwire too. They may not have the hardware to help but they know things.

I was planning on calling JeepSpeed since it's their kit that I would use for the transmission. You send your TCM to them and they flash it to work with the Challenger shifter where you get the tap shift and manual mode plus the Sport & Track modes if you want them. But I'm also just asking questions of those who have done it. The FB group has been very helpful with this and are the ones who told me not to worry about my gearing.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/239...tif_id=1736221534807544&notif_t=group_comment
 
I'm glad I reached out to Sound German Automotive but I think they aren't Jeep orientated nor low gearing & larger tires. After talking with the people with JK's or JL's & low gears & big tires I feel better about this swap.



How was it getting things hooked up? I know on newer rigs there's the CanBus that get's hooked up but on my TJ I don't think there's anything available even though it's got the Hemi PCM? Or is there CanBus wiring in there?
Fairly straight forward, both Sound German and Hotwire make a great harness and their after purchase support is top notch.

I don’t have CanBus on my 2000 TJ.

The 8speed harness is a standalone harness . You only need a TPS, brake light input, and a Tach signal for the trans to work. The Can signal is only on the trans harness for communication for OBD-TCM-Shifter-PSC controller.
 
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Fairly straight forward, both Sound German and Hotwire make a great harness and their after purchase support is top notch.

I don’t have CanBus on my 2000 TJ but there’s a Can signal from the RAM ECM that works for us.

OK that is sort of what I was thinking it might be but wasn't sure. I'll reach out to Chris at HotWire and see if I have to send my harness back to him or if it's something that can be added on. And I've been talking to Russell @ Sound German too.
 
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OK that is sort of what I was thinking it might be but wasn't sure. I'll reach out to Chris at HotWire and see if I have to send my harness back to him or if it's something that can be added on. And I've been talking to Russell @ Sound German too.

Already bored of driving it??
 
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Already bored of driving it??

Nope just making plans for this coming fall/early winter... I want to be out of here NLT 1 Dec so I miss the snow. Think I'll head to AZ & then go out to FL and spend X-mas with my grandkids.. Then slowly work my way back to AZ by spring and then come back to the PNW by May... Work on the Jeep some more then & start cleaning stuff out and thinking about what I'm going to do with my place.

But YES at some point I see a 8HP70 going into the Jeep... Makes some of my current issues go away and only adds a few minor ones. And I really like that 4.7:1 compared to the 3:1 current 1st gear.
 
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Nope just making plans for this coming fall/early winter... I want to be out of here NLT 1 Dec so I miss the snow. Think I'll head to AZ & then go out to FL and spend X-mas with my grandkids.. Then slowly work my way back to AZ by spring and then come back to the PNW by May... Work on the Jeep some more then & start cleaning stuff out and thinking about what I'm going to do with my place.
That will be awesome!! Sounds like an epic trip. You might sell your house and fulltime in the RV?
But YES at some point I see a 8HP70 going into the Jeep... Makes some of my current issues go away and only adds a few minor ones. And I really like that 4.7:1 compared to the 3:1 current 1st gear.
It sounds really awesome. More forward gears would be nice too if you end up on the highway but damn is that a granny gear. I was just thinking last night how annoying a 4spd auto is too lol.

Plus I was kinda kidding... I was researching titling my MR2 last night... And shopping for cams this morning 😂 the project never ends
 
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That will be awesome!! Sounds like an epic trip. You might sell your house and fulltime in the RV?

I want to do two or three years part-time before I start thinking about full timing in the RV but yes that is my goal at some point. I still might buy a small piece of land some place and pour a slab on it & put up a 30x60 shop with a awning on one side I could park the motorhome under. Put in 200amp service to the shop & 50 amp RV service plus a dump site. Swing thru it once or twice a year to do work on the motorhome or Jeep???

It sounds really awesome. More forward gears would be nice too if you end up on the highway but damn is that a granny gear. I was just thinking last night how annoying a 4spd auto is too lol.

Well now you were thinking about running a 3spd auto so watch it.... But yes even off-road having all this additional gears isn't a BAD thing and that crawl ratio in double LO with the STaK's & 1st gear is 131.6:1... You'd barely see the tires turning as you crawled up something. Heck even in LO the crawl ratio is 73.54:1 with the 4.7:1 1st gear. A lot nicer than with the 545... And here I was envious of Jeff when all I had was a lowly 4spd and he had that nice 5spd.

Plus I was kinda kidding... I was researching titling my MR2 last night... And shopping for cams this morning 😂 the project never ends

It's a never ending story.. But heck that's the FUN of this... And when I do the 8HP swap I'll of course document it and write it up in here and my build thread to help out others if they decide to try it too.
Tons of videos and support for the JK/JL crowd but not much out there for us guys.
 
I want to do two or three years part-time before I start thinking about full timing in the RV but yes that is my goal at some point. I still might buy a small piece of land some place and pour a slab on it & put up a 30x60 shop with a awning on one side I could park the motorhome under. Put in 200amp service to the shop & 50 amp RV service plus a dump site. Swing thru it once or twice a year to do work on the motorhome or Jeep???
That makes sense. I was ready to ask whose parking lot you'd do the transmission swap in lol.

Maybe if you could build your trailer to also lift your jeep up 🤔
Well now you were thinking about running a 3spd auto so watch it.... But yes even off-road having all this additional gears isn't a BAD thing and that crawl ratio in double LO with the STaK's & 1st gear is 131.6:1... You'd barely see the tires turning as you crawled up something. Heck even in LO the crawl ratio is 73.54:1 with the 4.7:1 1st gear. A lot nicer than with the 545... And here I was envious of Jeff when all I had was a lowly 4spd and he had that nice 5spd.
Yes I'm glad I gave up on that idea lol. Good thing I saw Victor wheel with manual and crush everything.

I bet that would be nice. I'm undergeared so I haven't experienced it myself but I remember the Rubicon guys complaining about needing to go into 4hi to go "fast enough" down a smoother dirt road so that could be nice. I don't know though I'm always going too fast.
It's a never ending story.. But heck that's the FUN of this... And when I do the 8HP swap I'll of course document it and write it up in here and my build thread to help out others if they decide to try it too.
Tons of videos and support for the JK/JL crowd but not much out there for us guys.
That would be cool. At least there are guys to talk to about it and the wiring. Looks like youd mostly be figuring out just fabbing it up to fit? Which we all know you love by now
 
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Down the Rabbit Hole I go again... Bought the first part of my 8HP70 swap today... It's out of a 2015 Raam 1500 w/80K miles. Guy was cool and had bought it for his Kenny Bell supercharged Durango with a 5.9 in it & then threw a rod so scrapped the project.

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He threw in a Challenger shifter so I gave him his asking price since this saves me $250.

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Don't expect anything until this fall since I've got to save up for the wiring kit from JeepSpeed Shop which is another $2K... But I'm getting there.
 
Some added information..

Looking at the kit that JeepSpeed Shop & after talking with Russel from Sound German for our TJ's you don't need some of what JSS includes in their kit & if you're local to Sound German you can get your TCM flashed for tap shift & sport or track mode. So what does this do for you?
JSS kit is $1900

Where the Sound German PCS kit is $1240 & then $150 to flash your rig. You don't need the shifter plate that JSS offers since it's made for a JK/JL. I'm waiting for a reply from JSS to clarify just what all is included in their kit. But if you're not local to the Seattle area and want to have the Sport & Track modes then going through JSS might be better.


Here's some of the stuff that Russel sent over on wiring up his harness.

Aftermarket ECU - 8hp.jpeg


Relay wiring to 8hp - Copy.jpeg


digital inputs to ground  - Copy.jpeg


And the PDF is the wiring diagram.
 

Attachments

Here's a copy of the instructions that Sound German sends out also. And I haven't bought anything from him yet but he still sent me all this. So I don't see any issues sharing it now.



8hp kit installation instructions.

The 8hp kit is as close to plug n play as possible. The required inputs for the transmission to work with this kit are RPM, TPS, Torque, Brake switch or Brake lamp input. All other wiring is optional and for your use as needed. We provide Neutral safety output and Reverse light output to ground only. Speedometer output is a programmable and should work with any modern electronic speedometer or a speedometer driver such as Speedhut Speedbox. The harness is made to receive inputs via CAN or discrete wiring. Both are not needed. One or the other. This allows easy installation and no calibration requirements for supported CAN based ECUs. Also wiring with aftermarket ECUs and even a Carb engine or diesel with a TPS sensor and RPM sensor. The discrete inputs are programmable for virtually any sensor.

Note: After calibration the Save Cal Command button at the top must be pressed and then the control module must be powered down and then disconnected from Battery power for 5-10 seconds for the changes to take effect.



Some adjustments of setup are available in the PCS control module. All Calibration of the transmission is done via OBD to the 8hp control unit as it would be done in the factory vehicle. Aftermarket tuning devices will be required. The PCS software and cable will not make adjustments to the 8hp TCM calibration.

Mopar Crate or other factory Mopar ECUs with Star connector:

Power and Ground:


There are two power inputs. A switched 12vlts to be wired to power when the key is on and a constant 12vlt battery input. Ground to chassis or battery ground. These all must be secure and reliable. Power must not drop during cranking and check that ground differential during cranking or other high loads is not high. Either of these scenarios can cause the Control module to lose power or drop to a critical level momentarily and turn off. This can cause starting issues when using the N/S output and others.

Plug C4

Connect from PCS harness to Mopar Star connector any position.

Plug C1

Plug into rear passenger side of the transmission.

Plug C5

Plug into the 8hp shifter.

Unterminated wires:

Brake input Gry/Blk to brake switch. It is calibrated to 12vlt input for the switch by default but can be calibrated to a ground contact as well.

Neutral Safety output from PCS harness Pink/Blk to Mopar harness N – Color: DG/OG – Gauge: 18 – Clutch Interlock:

Reverse lights output to ground side control of a relay for activating reverse lights.

Speedometer output:

This is a signal output to run and electronic speedometer. The Orange/wht wire will go to signal input of the speedometer. If the speedometer instructions show a 3 wire sensor diagram. 5vlt Ref and Signal ground are not required. These two wires are for operating an independent sensor. Power and ground to the Speedometer is required and this signal wire.



PCS software for monitoring data:

Please download the PCS tuning software at this address. https://www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com//functions/download.php?dir=Software&file=TCM2800_Tuning-Install.exe

Install the software and Read the calibration from the control unit using the Read CAL tab at the top; with the Eyeball. Save this file on your computer. Go to Software Setup select Tuning Mode / Advanced. Your screen should look like this after this is done.

Preview of gallery image.

Picture1.jpg



After this open the Monitor Screen using the Monitor tab which looks like a speedometer at the top it will open the lightweight monitor by default. Change this to TCM 2600/2800 Datastream in the Selected Monitor pull down in the window and you should be able to see RPM, TPS, Turbine Speed, Lever position, Current Gear and vehicle speed. (See below) As well s other input output functions. With the engine running you should see RPM and Turbine speed and if your foot is on the brake digital input 1 and Cancel TCC should be on. You should be able to remove the shifter from Park if these conditions are met. If you override your shifter then it will not go into gear. The transmission will not come out of park if the engine is not running unless you use the manual override lever on the driver’s side of the transmission.

Preview of gallery image.

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Aftermarket ECUs with TPS and RPM:



If using and aftermarket ECU or any unsupported CAN ECU TPS and RPM signals can be shared between control units.



TPS signal Yel/Blk will go to sensor input at the ECU. The 5vlt Ref. Red/wht and sensor ground BLK/wht should not be used. The ECU is already providing these to operate the sensor.



RPM input Orn/Blk will go to the tachometer output on an aftermarket ECU. This can also be shared with the Tachometer. Again, sensor ground is not needed.



Both of these signals need to be calibrated in the software under the Hardware Setup Folder.



TPS is under Analog inputs (x) TPS Calibration. Read the voltage using the Monitor in the box labeled Voltages Set the 0% voltage value and then press the pedal to full throttle and set the 100% throttle value. Hit enter after entering these values.



RPM is in the folder labeled SPEEDS. Set speed input pulses per RPM for Speed 1.



Applications with no other Computers:



Calibrate sensor inputs as per the instructions above after they are wired correctly.



TPS



Wire a TPS sensor to 5vlt ref. Signal ground and TPS input wires on unterminated harness as instructed on the TPS sensor instructions.



Note: After calibration the Save Cal Command button at the top must be pressed and then the control module must be powered down and then disconnected from Battery power for 5-10 seconds for the changes to take effect.







RPM



Magnetic 2 wire sensors can be wired directly to RPM input and Sensor ground.



Hall Effect 3 wire sensors should be wired to 5vlt Ref. Sensor ground and RPM input per Sensor instructions. Some sensors may also require 12vlt input or a pull up resistor to read the sensor.



Torque Map:



The torque map is used in these applications. It is TPS vs RPM and can be found in the Calibration/Tuning folder Main Torque Map. The break points can be changed to represent your engines operating range. This map must be representative of the actual torque, both positive and negative, being generated by the engine at the flywheel. If it is not the transmission may fail prematurely or simply not work at all. Reporting higher than actual torque is more desirable than reporting to little. See example map below.


Preview of gallery image.

picture3.jpg



Speedometer output:



Speedometer output setup pulses per mile is done under Hardware Setup / Speeds / (x) Speedo Output Settings Set the pulses per mile to match your speedometer to the speedometer in the PCS Software monitor.



Gear ratio and Tire size:



Set gear ratio and tire size under Setup Info / (x) Gear Ratios and Tire Size.



The transmission ratios are not necessary. Only final drive ratio and driven tire diameter.



If you are using the Mopar instrument cluster via CAN; the scaling is incorrect for this and you must adjust tire size to correct for this. I recommend setting it correctly, so the PCS software reads correctly on the Monitor screen. Get the vehicle to 60mph steady state and then adjust the tire size so that the instrument cluster reads 60mph while maintaining a constant speed.







Option connector and other CAN connectors:



In an effort to provide optional input setups and future expansion the harness is made with additional connectors for CAN. The option connector is used for items such as Gear indicators and Paddle shifters.



The additional 2 pin CAN connectors are not required for any particular installation and can just be stored in the harness if not used.



Sport and Track Modes:



Note: Modes are only supported if the Calibration in the 8hp TCM inside the transmission is set for these. This kit cannot activate modes that are not in the factory transmission calibration. ie a truck calibration does not have Sport and Track modes.



Sport mode and Track mode can be activated via the software and kept that way without wiring in or an additional wire can be added to the Main PCS 56 pin connector. Sport mode is set to digital input 2 (pin 3) and Track Mode is set to digital input 4 (pin 5). Nothing is required in the software if adding a wire to a switch. Simply add the wire to the correct pin and ground the wire and the mode will activate.



To activate either via the software without wiring got to Hardware setup / Digital Inputs / Invert button logic. Invert either digital input 2 for Sport or digital input 4 for Track.



Note: After calibration the Save Cal Command button at the top must be pressed and then the control module must be powered down and then disconnected from Battery power for 5-10 seconds for the changes to take effect.


If you have any questions about your installation or problems with the product or software. Please contact me.



Sound German Automotive

Russell Drake


russell@soundgermanautomotive.com

425-503-9233
 
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This is my parts list for the swap & may have some un needed parts but won't know until I get to this point.

Crank Shaft Pilot Sleeve, part number 4736283AA

Mopar Bolt 6509361AA

5.7 Flex Plate
4752574AB

Transmission Mount Bracket - Mopar (68147344AA)

Insulator - Mopar (68147347AB)

Hex Head Bolt And Washer - Mopar (6101985) (8ea)

Hex Head Bolt And Coned Washer - Mopar (6102400AA) (4ea)

Flex-Plate Or Flywheel Backing Plate - Mopar (4736613AA)

Hex Head Lock Bolt, Mounting, Automatic Transmission - Mopar (6503465)

Transmission Dust Cover - Mopar (52104344AA) or (4591948AB)
 
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This is my parts list for the swap & may have some un needed parts but won't know until I get to this point.

Crank Shaft Pilot Sleeve, part number 4736283AA.

Mopar Bolt 6509361AA

5.7 Flex Plate
4752574AB

Transmission Mount Bracket - Mopar (68147344AA)

Insulator - Mopar (68147347AB)

Hex Head Bolt And Washer - Mopar (6101985) (8ea)

Hex Head Bolt And Coned Washer - Mopar (6102400AA) (4ea)

Flex-Plate Or Flywheel Backing Plate - Mopar (4736613AA)

Hex Head Lock Bolt, Mounting, Automatic Transmission - Mopar (6503465)

Transmission Dust Cover - Mopar (52104344AA)

💸💸💸

Lol that actually doesn't seem bad mostly small parts.
 
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