100% carbon fiber and kevlar mounting arms are not needed but oh well lol. ive heard of 67 designs but theyre pretty expensive as well too so im not sure as to who or what else to run
Auxbeam 6 gang wiring
- Thread starter Rolled Over Rubi
- Start date
100% carbon fiber and kevlar mounting arms are not needed but oh well lol. ive heard of 67 designs but theyre pretty expensive as well too so im not sure as to who or what else to run
I’m running 4 of the large Lux lights and I’m happy with them. Easy to install and effective.
If you wanted to stay with the stock switches in addition to whatever extra accessories you like, the place that did mine could easily make it so the stock switches fit. You wouldn't have to change any of the wiring.
Or change to something like the Nilight switches. Backlit, plug-n-play replacements for the factory switches, available with a gazillion laser etched logos...
Have the custom fascia made to accept as many of these as you want. No modifications to your factory harness.
Rewiring the stock switches to be controlled by the Auxbeam controller.. I ditched the factory switches. Use the Auxbeam switch panel and run the power/ground from the Auxbeam controller mounted in the engine bay to each device I wanted to control. Only one wire needs to be routed into the cabin from the controller to the switch panel.
I didn't want to reinvent the wheel and rebuild all the relays and individual switches. I started that using a modified double stock switch panel (which I still have if you want to go that route). Far easier to do the Auxbeam.
Made this and never used it. I think it is still in my parts shed.
where did you end up mounting them? just on the body front, rear, and sides? they light up a lot of the ground under you with little to no shadows as well?
i wonder how i would get the lockers to work with the auxbeam, you normally have to push down on the switch to activate rear, again for front and rear lockers. so maybe it'd be the same way unless i gotta deal with the relay. I've thought about adding the extra rock switches like you mentioned from nighlight but thought itd be easier to wire in a complete aux controller and be finished with it. those rocker lights would look well with the oem switches though
Yes they are the Lux lights. I'm not seeing this style on their website anymore.
I can't say if 4 would be enough. Like I said I've got 10 total and like how much light it's providing.
Front
Front fenders
Rear fenderwell
Front under body
Rear under body
Rear bumper
This is the amount of light
do you know if theyre doing a black friday sale soon at all? they look and seem to perform nicely but would not like to pay above 200 for em lol
Fortunately I read all the way through before I replied. At least that way I figured out you were after the economy version of stuff and saved me the trouble of posting the rest of this install.
As mentioned previous and a minor correction, if you ground to the chassis, you need to add a ground from the tub to the frame since the frame is not intentionally grounded. All TJ electrical from the factory grounds to the tub.
The KC light you see in the cup I made for it has the common 2 wire hook up with bullet connectors and then they supply a 2 wire matching harness. All of our connections were made to a single hot running down each side of the rig. We spliced their hot side to the positive, that plugs onto the hot out of the light. The ground side was grounded to the tub, then plugged into the ground wire of the light. Now the owner does not have to do any wiring to swap out a light. Pop that little plug out in the center of the light, unscrew it, pull the wires down, un plug, plug in the new one, mount it back in place and stick the little plug back in.
We also kept all of our lights below the rocker line. I didn't see any value in seeing anything above the middle of the tire, they are rock lights, not tire lights.
You'd have to contact them since I haven't seen anything to say if they are or not.
i agree with the lights above tires, if anything having lights on the front bumper/cross member of the frame and on rockers will provide a better view of tires. KC lights has a sale going on to right now don't they? after how you explained the wiring it seems pretty damn easy wether you're replacing or installing. i'd prolly end up using the grounds off the tubs since thats the oem way. The KC's pretty bright for what they are? how many you recommend using when getting em?
i know they have in the past but idk if they've released much info about em being on sale
They are stupid bright for what they are. The advantage I have seen over other brighter lights is how evenly diffused and non directional they are. They have some new ones out which we have not tested but should be even more diffused.
The big challenge with rock lights is from the middle of the rig back to the diff. That area needs to be well lit but the places you would mount the lights are not conducive to light mounting. Ideally you'd like one of the KC lights on the exhaust on the right side and angled back to point in front of the left side tire. The other side matching one is easy, but there is no good place that doesn't look cobbled together on the exhaust side to get that pattern. My OCD about such things means they have to be exact mirrored mounting spots. You also want them as far from the diff as possible to get more area lit up.
the front's should be pretty easy to mount shouldn't be to difficult trying to find the right locations anyways, in the middle id put em on the body by the rockers, in the rear its tricky like you mentioned, id prolly end up placing one or 2 above the driveshaft since that's one the best places in terms of having the less shadow in general I think, yeah there might be one from the drivehshaft but maybe some off to the side on the body might help eliminate that? after getting past the rear dif best bet is prolly on the rear frame whether it's tucked up in side or off to the side by the ends of the rear frame. i'll def look into some of K'C's products tho, i've heard good things about em but always thought it was crazy they wanted a led reflector lense headlight for about $600 lol.
In the front there is a spot that is well overlooked by most. It is the lowest part of the tub, well protected from rock and has the perfect angle to aim a light right at the back of the tire where it meets the ground, or close to it. Probably requires the use of aftermarket fenders since I've not checked the spot with stock fenders.
No, I don't use the magnet mounts for the KC stuff. There is no easy way to get them flush against the sheet metal. That pair is mounted with 1/4-20 nutserts or maybe the 6mm stainless versions I have. Depends on the fastener at the time. I don't mix stainless fasteners and stainless nuts/nutserts.
Do the KC Cylones bolt through the back? I don't see mounting tabs? I'm assuming the lense pops off since they're replaceable and there are holes through the light that you hit with your aforementioned nutserts?
What's your learned opinion about KC's surface mount and frenched in recessed brackets?
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v...ce-single-1371.html?utm_relatedproduct=native
https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-v...sh-single-1370.html?utm_relatedproduct=native
-Mac
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