Aircraft Stripper on Hardtop

[AndyG]

I have to strip a top, the aftermarket paint was not mixed correctly-

Is Aircraft stripper safe for the FRP ? I tested a spot and it worked well. Just don’t want a bigger problem. Factory color exposed in pic.

Thanks
Andy

 

[Rickyd]

Find out what the top is made out of and ask the manufacturer. If it was me I would probably use a sander to be safe

 

[TheBoogieman]

All I read was aircraft stripper and thought this was going in a different direction. I'm out.
p.s. Aircraft strippers are not safe to use on fiberglass

 

[chili_pepper]

The top is made from SMC plastic, a special kind of polyester based fiberglass materials. I would not recommend using stripping chemicals on it, unless specifically noted as safe for the material. Also note that repairs should be done with SMC approved materials only.

 

[5TTTj]

Is the paint soft ? If so give it some additional time, It might possibly kick, then you can sand it and start over. I sprayed the toe rail on my skiff and didn't think about what I was doing and mixed the clear with less than half of the catalyst it called for. It was tacky for a few weeks but if finally kicked and is fully cured, but I was sweating it.

 

[AndyG]

Find out what the top is made out of and ask the manufacturer. If it was me I would probably use a sander to be safe

My goal is to not lose the texture-

Seems the paint just runs right off when I hit it with the stripper- I just don’t wanna mess up. Again.

 

[AndyG]

Is the paint soft ? If so give it some additional time, It might possibly kick, then you can sand it and start over. I sprayed the toe rail on my skiff and didn't think about what I was doing and mixed the clear with less than half of the catalyst it called for. It was tacky for a few weeks but if finally kicked and is fully cured, but I was sweating it.View attachment 572482

I was hoping it would- It finally lost tack ....but has no stability. It peels when I put the clear over it.

 

[chili_pepper]

My goal is to not lose the texture-

I understand your predicament completely. I opted to sand smooth, but my situation is different than yours as I already lost some of the texture due to required repairs.

Seems the paint just runs right off when I hit it with the stripper- I just don’t wanna mess up. Again.

If it isn't affecting the factory finish and just the new material, I'd say have a go but be careful. Maybe strip and deactivate/rinse in small areas.

 

[AndyG]

I understand your predicament completely. I opted to sand smooth, but my situation is different than yours as I already lost some of the texture due to required repairs.



If it isn't affecting the factory finish and just the new material, I'd say have a go but be careful. Maybe strip and deactivate/rinse in small areas.

Thanks man- will proceed with caution.

 

[ColoJeep]

I understand your predicament completely. I opted to sand smooth, but my situation is different than yours as I already lost some of the texture due to required repairs.



If it isn't affecting the factory finish and just the new material, I'd say have a go but be careful. Maybe strip and deactivate/rinse in small areas.

Would lacquer thinner be less aggressive to SMC , and still remove the crap paint?

 

[BlueC]

I don't know the actual answer here, but I think chili _pepper is on it. Just an extra word of caution, I've always been told to avoid chemical strippers with 'glass. Something about it will get down into the pores and cause issues. A friend of mine will only strip 'glass by hand with a razor. He has said that blasting with walnut shell is fine too, but until recently, that was hard to find. If you have to keep the factory texture, that adds a complexity. Personally, I think I would strip/sand smooth and look to regain the texture in the new paint.

Every Vette my buddy does is stripped by hand which sounds and feels horrible at first, but once you get started, it just zipps off.

 

[chili_pepper]

Would lacquer thinner be less aggressive to SMC , and still remove the crap paint?

I wouldn't chance it, but you could test at an unseen area (under bottom edge/mounting lip). Lacquer thinner is actually pretty potent stuff, but so is acetone. Even some wax and grease removers are more potent than others (and can remove primer from fresh repairs).

stripped by hand

This can suck, depending on situation and level of strip. I've done more chem and sand strips (many to bare metal) than I care to remember. I'm going this route on my hardtop, whether I go color match and clear or re-texture.

 

[BlueC]

I've done more chem and sand strips (many to bare metal) than I care to remember

On metal, I wouldn't be that concerned with a stripper, especially with today's weakened products. But with porous materials, you have that to deal with. Have you considered finding a blaster and hitting it with walnut shell or something similar? I've heard good things, but I’ve never had a reason to try it since most of my stuff is metal and more aggressive material is typically fine.

BTW, how did you strip urethane and ABS in the past?

 

[AndyG]

I was originally planning on walnut shells- just don’t know that I have the volume of air

 

[BlueC]

I was originally planning on walnut shells- just don’t know that I have the volume of air

Have you checked with a mobile blaster? Hell, it's a top, you could easily take it to someone. I recently got a quote for a dustless blaster guy to come to my house and do an entire car top and bottom for $800, plus $200 for the frame. I'd guess a top could be done for less than $300, but that's just guessing.

 

[chili_pepper]

BTW, how did you strip urethane and ABS in the past?

The old fashion way, sanding.

 

[AndyG]

Have you checked with a mobile blaster? Hell, it's a top, you could easily take it to someone. I recently got a quote for a dustless blaster guy to come to my house and do an entire car top and bottom for $800, plus $200 for the frame. I'd guess a top could be done for less than $300, but that's just guessing.

You know I have not but that is a perfectly good idea