Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Transmission Trouble

Yall are gonna love telling your wives this story at the dinner table tonight.

I went to the mechanic my jeep was at. I had some questions as to how long the work would be expected to take, if the price quote was hard or more work was getting done, how experienced the tech was at automatic transmission rebuilds. Apparently it was a heavy flow day because i was told i had to take my jeep somewhere else and they refused to work on it. Said i "asked too many questions" Never been refused service before. Well now that my girl is safe in my arms I intend to troubleshoot more with Hear's guide he posted.

"...heavy flow day..." - Gonna have to remember that! :D
 
Damn, Right before I was going to ask you for help on my selector shaft seal leak


Yeah, ik I finally had time to get my hands on the darn vehicle and take a look at it.

It'll be a short trip. I did a writeup on replacing that seal w/o removing the valve body or pan; it can be done.
 
It'll be a short trip. I did a writeup on replacing that seal w/o removing the valve body or pan; it can be done.

I found it last night and ordered parts, going to tackle it over my extended holiday vacation!
 
I found it last night and ordered parts, going to tackle it over my extended holiday vacation!

When I did that, I had never removed a valve body before. Turns out it's not very much effort once you have the shifter linkage removed, which you have to do anyway. If you haven't replaced your filter in a while, it's not a bad excuse to drop the pan and do that step.

And then my obligatory recommendation: if you have to drop the pan for any reason, don't put the old pan back up. Instead get the deep pan with the drain plug and a lube locker gasket. Future you will thank you.
 
When I did that, I had never removed a valve body before. Turns out it's not very much effort once you have the shifter linkage removed, which you have to do anyway. If you haven't replaced your filter in a while, it's not a bad excuse to drop the pan and do that step.

And then my obligatory recommendation: if you have to drop the pan for any reason, don't put the old pan back up. Instead get the deep pan with the drain plug and a lube locker gasket. Future you will thank you.

Heh, I hate that we share that mentality... I wont be dropping the pan though, dont have a suitable way to do it safely at my current place. Plus, filter was replaced back when I had it serviced the first time it was leaking...
 
Let's do some basic troubleshooting since we're on page 2 of this thread and you haven't bought me a plane ticket yet.

0. Let's understand exactly what you're seeing. Is the increase in RPM just that it holds shifts longer, or is it flaring/slipping?

1. change the fluid & filter ==> this is pretty much always the best place to start. You'll see if you've got more trouble based on the fluid & whats in the bottom of the pan. For my money, I wouldn't do this without also having a new deep pan with a drain plug, because it's not the last time youre going to need to drop the pan. And if you're going to replace the pan, you may as well have a bung brazed in so you can add a temp gauge. And a Lube Locker (I think it is LL-999) will be your best friend if you do it multiple times as well.

* Use ATF+4 and nothing else.
* Check the level when warm, idling, and in Neutral

2. Check on the condition & adjustment of your TV cable. Make sure it moves smoothly and there is no slack between when you move the gas pedal & when the valve starts to open down at the transmission. Mine was in rough shape, I had to replace.

3. Actually disconnect the TV cable from the linkage at the transmission and see if you get the same behavior. That will tell us if the TV cable is even the problem. At the same time, work that valve and make sure it fully closes when there is no load. There are several places it could be sticky.

4. Unplug the TCC from the back corner of the transmission. I don't think this is your issue, but let's isolate variables. You'll throw a P0743 but you needn't be concerned with it.

Took a while but i got some time off to work on the jeep. Checked the fluid while running in park. Full and pink. shifted to neutral and checked the dip stick... mine must be short because i didnt get any fluid. adjusted the TV cable. i wasnt able to find where it connects by the tranny so i did not disconnect it there. same for the TCC. after watching videos pretty sure i have a skid plate blocking access to the two of em. Things i also noticed today.
RPM in park 800
RPM in D shot to 1400 and stayed at 1200. This normal?
If not i do have a new TPS i could swap it with

Edit: Been watching more vidoes online what are the odds it may be an ECU issue. and need a replace of that?
 
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The computer can affect your idle speed, but it has pretty much nothing to do with your transmission. High idle sounds like vacuum leak or TPS issue. The TCC connector can be gotten at with the skid on, but it's not the easiest thing in the world to do.

The TV cable linkage comes down the engine bay on the passenger side, and then through a bracket on the driver side rear of the transmission. It shoots straight to the shift selector shaft, I'm pretty sure with a ball joint type thing that just snaps off the linkage. But disconnecting it at the throttle body is fine if you can have somebody work the throttle while you're under it, observing the thing turn & snap back freely.
 
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The computer can affect your idle speed, but it has pretty much nothing to do with your transmission. High idle sounds like vacuum leak or TPS issue. The TCC connector can be gotten at with the skid on, but it's not the easiest thing in the world to do.

The TV cable linkage comes down the engine bay on the passenger side, and then through a bracket on the driver side rear of the transmission. It shoots straight to the shift selector shaft, I'm pretty sure with a ball joint type thing that just snaps off the linkage. But disconnecting it at the throttle body is fine if you can have somebody work the throttle while you're under it, observing the thing turn & snap back freely.

Okay gotcha ill look at that again. Also is no fluid in N on the transmission the intended result?
 
Okay gotcha ill look at that again. Also is no fluid in N on the transmission the intended result?

no, that's a problem too. I would add more till it registers.......maybe first post a picture of the end of your dipstick, just to make sure. But if you put too much in it will just puke it up to get to the right level.
 
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no, that's a problem too. I would add more till it registers.......maybe first post a picture of the end of your dipstick, just to make sure. But if you put too much in it will just puke it up to get to the right level.

When i put in more Transmission fluid do i need to worry about the previous fluid already in there or can i just put in more of what you recommended
 
I'm a little concerned that you said "pink"....pink sometimes indicates the presence of water. Brand new its more of a cherry red, but I don't mean to split hairs on color. Older fluid tends to get darker and darker, never more towards the pink unless you get water in there. Truly pink pretty much means you need a rebuild, because water breaks down the friction materials on the clutches & bands.

Assuming that's a false alarm, you can just dump new ATF+4 down the dipstick tube until it reads full. Don't use any sort of universal transmission fluid, especially if you're already having trouble. Any brand of ATF+4 is fine, I use the stuff from Walmart regularly.
 
Alright so update for everyone, with photos. The fluid was in fact closer to a maroon, and i put a whole bunch of ATF-4 in it. And took her for a spin. I am sorry to say i am probably retarded since it no longer shifts hard from first to second.
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator