That one guy on here who installed and uninstalled about 5 NSG370’s and finally gave up. Man, that was a sick story.
Transmission Trouble
- Thread starter Shark-Byte
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That one guy on here who installed and uninstalled about 5 NSG370’s and finally gave up. Man, that was a sick story.
I'd rather walk than fly United. Haven't flown them since Y2K.
Can’t get there on foot. Unless you get really religious!
I had my AX-15 rebuilt by a shop in Bend. 2 hour drive. Transmission came in and out six times before I gave up on the shop and bought a new one from Advanced Adapters.
And that's a manual transmission...not nearly as complicated as an automatic.
-Mac
agree to disagree
Automatic transmission magician thinks automatics are easy, whoa
It's kinda funny the flight is cheaper than the reman cos I'd 100% rather have you fix mine than some random company that doesn't give a shit
And you have to be careful it doesn’t capsize once there.
Wow, that's discouraging.
My local transmission guy (who is about 70 years old) is one of those old school gurus. He was going off on a big rant when I was in there with my F150 having the transmission serviced and he was telling me himself how almost all the reman stuff they see is crap and ends up having to be replaced.
Again, even if it has a 36k mile warranty, how many times do you want to pull that thing out of there to replace it?
The only magic is the valve body, which I'm slowly understanding more and more as people come here with issues, and as I just generally study how the dang thing works. What's really funny is that every time I gain some understanding I try to document how it works for future reference. And then I read the FSM and it says exactly what I just learned, I just wasn't ready to understand it yet. But from a cost to effort standpoint, just get a new VB and hope for the best. That's what nearly every shop is going to do anyway.
There are only a few things that can really be wrong with a 32RH that a disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly can't fix. And all of those are things I've only encountered in reading other people's adventures like on A Bodies Only. Obviously if you have broken hard parts like a blown up planet, you're cooked. You can get a replacement off ebay motors, but now you have to be concerned about new clearances. But the one I read about that gives me nightmares is the guy whose input shaft sealing ring grooves were out of spec by like 2 thou and thus couldn't hold the right pressure. Like how would you ever discover that. If that spec is in the FSM I've never seen it. You'd have to be one of the old guys to know it because it was published in the 60's somewhere.
And when I consider (joking or not) the notion of flying to Guam to rebuild a transmission, I'm like "what all would I need to bring?" Maybe certain tools, but like what if he ends up being the ONE case that requires a different set of selectable snap rings? So I'd have to order a set of those in advance. The L/R band almost never needs to be replaced, but if I fly all the way there and ended up needing one that would sure suck. Can I check a torque converter in my luggage? And can I bring a used one back to collect the core charge? Should I just count on new fittings for the cooler lines? New pan with a drain plug, which I never touch a transmission without installing? Taps & fittings for the breather relocate? Trying to think of every contingency up front would be hard. Might be easier to ship everything there, but what does that cost? Fun to think about, but I'll wait for OP's all clear to take my next step.
Let's do some basic troubleshooting since we're on page 2 of this thread and you haven't bought me a plane ticket yet.
0. Let's understand exactly what you're seeing. Is the increase in RPM just that it holds shifts longer, or is it flaring/slipping?
1. change the fluid & filter ==> this is pretty much always the best place to start. You'll see if you've got more trouble based on the fluid & whats in the bottom of the pan. For my money, I wouldn't do this without also having a new deep pan with a drain plug, because it's not the last time youre going to need to drop the pan. And if you're going to replace the pan, you may as well have a bung brazed in so you can add a temp gauge. And a Lube Locker (I think it is LL-999) will be your best friend if you do it multiple times as well.
* Use ATF+4 and nothing else.
* Check the level when warm, idling, and in Neutral
2. Check on the condition & adjustment of your TV cable. Make sure it moves smoothly and there is no slack between when you move the gas pedal & when the valve starts to open down at the transmission. Mine was in rough shape, I had to replace.
3. Actually disconnect the TV cable from the linkage at the transmission and see if you get the same behavior. That will tell us if the TV cable is even the problem. At the same time, work that valve and make sure it fully closes when there is no load. There are several places it could be sticky.
4. Unplug the TCC from the back corner of the transmission. I don't think this is your issue, but let's isolate variables. You'll throw a P0743 but you needn't be concerned with it.
0. Let's understand exactly what you're seeing. Is the increase in RPM just that it holds shifts longer, or is it flaring/slipping?
1. change the fluid & filter ==> this is pretty much always the best place to start. You'll see if you've got more trouble based on the fluid & whats in the bottom of the pan. For my money, I wouldn't do this without also having a new deep pan with a drain plug, because it's not the last time youre going to need to drop the pan. And if you're going to replace the pan, you may as well have a bung brazed in so you can add a temp gauge. And a Lube Locker (I think it is LL-999) will be your best friend if you do it multiple times as well.
* Use ATF+4 and nothing else.
* Check the level when warm, idling, and in Neutral
2. Check on the condition & adjustment of your TV cable. Make sure it moves smoothly and there is no slack between when you move the gas pedal & when the valve starts to open down at the transmission. Mine was in rough shape, I had to replace.
3. Actually disconnect the TV cable from the linkage at the transmission and see if you get the same behavior. That will tell us if the TV cable is even the problem. At the same time, work that valve and make sure it fully closes when there is no load. There are several places it could be sticky.
4. Unplug the TCC from the back corner of the transmission. I don't think this is your issue, but let's isolate variables. You'll throw a P0743 but you needn't be concerned with it.
The only magic is the valve body, which I'm slowly understanding more and more as people come here with issues, and as I just generally study how the dang thing works. What's really funny is that every time I gain some understanding I try to document how it works for future reference. And then I read the FSM and it says exactly what I just learned, I just wasn't ready to understand it yet. But from a cost to effort standpoint, just get a new VB and hope for the best. That's what nearly every shop is going to do anyway.
There are only a few things that can really be wrong with a 32RH that a disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly can't fix. And all of those are things I've only encountered in reading other people's adventures like on A Bodies Only. Obviously if you have broken hard parts like a blown up planet, you're cooked. You can get a replacement off ebay motors, but now you have to be concerned about new clearances. But the one I read about that gives me nightmares is the guy whose input shaft sealing ring grooves were out of spec by like 2 thou and thus couldn't hold the right pressure. Like how would you ever discover that. If that spec is in the FSM I've never seen it. You'd have to be one of the old guys to know it because it was published in the 60's somewhere.
And when I consider (joking or not) the notion of flying to Guam to rebuild a transmission, I'm like "what all would I need to bring?" Maybe certain tools, but like what if he ends up being the ONE case that requires a different set of selectable snap rings? So I'd have to order a set of those in advance. The L/R band almost never needs to be replaced, but if I fly all the way there and ended up needing one that would sure suck. Can I check a torque converter in my luggage? And can I bring a used one back to collect the core charge? Should I just count on new fittings for the cooler lines? New pan with a drain plug, which I never touch a transmission without installing? Taps & fittings for the breather relocate? Trying to think of every contingency up front would be hard. Might be easier to ship everything there, but what does that cost? Fun to think about, but I'll wait for OP's all clear to take my next step.
As an aside (and not to derail this thread) but I would highly encourage you to post a thread in the how-to section titled "How to rebuild your 32RH" and embed every one of your YouTube videos in it from your playlist. I'm guessing that's going to be a big help to people in the future especially given how our society is coming apart at the seems and good work (good parts too) are getting harder and harder to find.
Interesting, they've been my preferred since moving to the west coast. Only airline to fly reasonably seamless from our regional thru SFO.
Last time I flew them was in Y2K - a 7 leg domestic trip. They screwed up EVERY SINGLE LEG, lost my luggage, found it and delivered it to the wrong address, put my carryon with $2K worth of photography gear into the main baggage stream, blah, blah, blah. Never saw such a class A clusterfuck in my life. There was almost a fight at one airport when a United employee kept on going on and on about some flight to Philly, and everyone standing there, including me, wanted to know about the delayed flight to CHICAGO! Blah, blah, blah.
We loved continental before they got sucked into United, and flew SouthWest for many years. Its my understanding that SouthWest did away with their open seating and other perks which is what made them worth flying. *shrug*
I'm still missing a few steps, and the whole thing would probably benefit from a more detailed breakdown. None of it is hard, but it is a lot of steps. But maybe I should just create a new thread with some placeholder posts for the different subject areas. Then I can tweak them as my content improves.
But then at the same time I want to film a "Transmission Mafia" style video where it's just a series of jump cuts that show the entire process. I wish making good videos was easy, but it turns out that all that storyboarding, camera positioning, lighting, multi-cam editing etc is actually really really involved. If you ever see somebody make really good automotive content, reward that person because they have invested a ton of time & effort into that project.
That would be a wise idea. With as hard as it's becoming to find quality repair work (and parts) I'm thinking those videos will be highly beneficial to others in the near future.
Making quality video content is hard, tell me about it. That's why I always have a lot of respect for those YouTube channels in which they have very good production quality. I know firsthand how much work that takes!
I know. I just didn’t want you to have to remember. Moving forward not looking back. Cheers!!!
Yall are gonna love telling your wives this story at the dinner table tonight.
I went to the mechanic my jeep was at. I had some questions as to how long the work would be expected to take, if the price quote was hard or more work was getting done, how experienced the tech was at automatic transmission rebuilds. Apparently it was a heavy flow day because i was told i had to take my jeep somewhere else and they refused to work on it. Said i "asked too many questions" Never been refused service before. Well now that my girl is safe in my arms I intend to troubleshoot more with Hear's guide he posted.
I went to the mechanic my jeep was at. I had some questions as to how long the work would be expected to take, if the price quote was hard or more work was getting done, how experienced the tech was at automatic transmission rebuilds. Apparently it was a heavy flow day because i was told i had to take my jeep somewhere else and they refused to work on it. Said i "asked too many questions" Never been refused service before. Well now that my girl is safe in my arms I intend to troubleshoot more with Hear's guide he posted.
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