I recently dunked the front of my jeep in some deep water. Headlights had water in them and I had to remove the lights to get it out. Any reason why I shouldn't drill a hole in the bottom (back side) so it can drain on its own?
Toyota lights on your TJ! Cheap, quality LED alternative
- Thread starter Longwhitejeep
- Start date
I don't plan on it happening again, but I didn't plan on it happening this time.
Or the previous time.
Got the old headlight wiring patched back so I could it would be working when I put the Toyota headlights in. I also ordered a set of 100/55w bulbs to go in them. My idea the 55w low beams for in traffic and around town. The 100w high beams so I can see the deer crossing the road in front of me. Gotta do my bit for wildlife preservation ya know. It’s a bit early for deer season anyway
Also ordered a new set Hella 500 fog lights to go along with the new head lights. The original factory ones have been having issues for a long time now and I figured since I’m already working up front there. Besides the LJ is paid for and got to spend the money somewheres
Also ordered a new set Hella 500 fog lights to go along with the new head lights. The original factory ones have been having issues for a long time now and I figured since I’m already working up front there. Besides the LJ is paid for and got to spend the money somewheres
KC LEDs were $682 on Amazon. Toyota lights were $35 for the pair from local dealer. Took my chances on the Toyota lights based on the feedback on this thread. When I get rich I can go for LED and what have I lost? The cost of a ChickFilA lunch….
Got mine installed, wired up and working this morning. Easy peasy. Running the wires was the hardest part.
Hope to get the time to adjust them tomorrow
Hope to get the time to adjust them tomorrow
KennethS
TJ Addict
That was my biggest issue. There aren’t any dark areas within a reasonable distance, so I went behind the local grocery store and used their wall to adjust using the guidelines the sticky posts.
The 100w bulbs aren't any brighter than the high quality 60w bulbs, they only produce a lot more heat which will degrade the reflectors in the headlight housings. They also don't last as long. Using higher wattage filaments to produce more lumens is old technology that has been replaced with lower wattage filaments made from better materials.
Go with Silvania Silverstar, Osram Nightbreaker, or Phillips X-treme Vision. They're all pretty much equivalent so get which ever is cheapest at the time.
Driving home last night, I found that without actually checking the adjustment, it was pretty darn close. Still going to check it though. The really good point though was that I didn't have anyone flashing their lights at me for a change.
Well, after 500+ posts and 107+ thousand views I thought I would add my .02 cents to the thread and highlight my install. I decided to use the included harness that came in the kit to future proof if I decide to ever go with the Hella 100/80w bulbs but also take the circuit load off the MFS.
For harness routing I found a hole just below the pass side headlight opening in the core support (next to the radiator) to pass the driver side plug/harness branch through and routed it along the top of the grill and zip tied it to the harness that is already there. It is completely hidden and the routing turned out great. I am also looking for a plug/cap or something to cover up the driver side factory H/L connector that is no longer used but haven’t found anything yet.
Next, I routed the power and relay/fuse side of the harness along the top of the passenger fender (orange line).
I decided to mount the relays under the fuse box to somewhat hide them and use space that would probably never be used for anything.
I decided to buy the fuse/relay bracket kit from Cruisermatt’s (link: https://cruisermatts.com/products/koito-headlight-fuse-relay-bracket) to see if I could make one of them work. I ended up using the one circled in red but straightened out the tabs to be able to mount it vertically on the side of the fuse box bracket.
At the risk of being a little biased (LOL!!), I think the finished product turned out pretty good. The battery terminals are getting a little busy but I think it’s a controlled and organized spider web (Double LOL!!).
As said before, the actual install was pretty easy and straight forward but the harness routing and relay/fuse mounts while not difficult either, were the time consuming parts of the install.
For harness routing I found a hole just below the pass side headlight opening in the core support (next to the radiator) to pass the driver side plug/harness branch through and routed it along the top of the grill and zip tied it to the harness that is already there. It is completely hidden and the routing turned out great. I am also looking for a plug/cap or something to cover up the driver side factory H/L connector that is no longer used but haven’t found anything yet.
Next, I routed the power and relay/fuse side of the harness along the top of the passenger fender (orange line).
I decided to mount the relays under the fuse box to somewhat hide them and use space that would probably never be used for anything.
I decided to buy the fuse/relay bracket kit from Cruisermatt’s (link: https://cruisermatts.com/products/koito-headlight-fuse-relay-bracket) to see if I could make one of them work. I ended up using the one circled in red but straightened out the tabs to be able to mount it vertically on the side of the fuse box bracket.
At the risk of being a little biased (LOL!!), I think the finished product turned out pretty good. The battery terminals are getting a little busy but I think it’s a controlled and organized spider web (Double LOL!!).
As said before, the actual install was pretty easy and straight forward but the harness routing and relay/fuse mounts while not difficult either, were the time consuming parts of the install.
KennethS
TJ Addict
I wrapped the drivers side headlight connector with electrical tape. Started at the wires, wrapped around the plastic, continued wrapping past the end of the plastic, folded it under, and gave a few more wraps to secure and seal the end.
One thing I forgot to mention is I rolled the dice and bought a set of John Audette's Osram Night Breaker H4 bulbs before he went out of business and while the beam spread is great, the brightness is a bit disappointing (low) and a little too yellow for my liking. Not planning to change them till they go out but wanted to put this out there wondering if anyone else who has installed them has observed the same/similar results or different altogether.
I adjusted mine yesterday morning and they are great. I also put a new set of amber H3 bulbs in the fogs and I think I still need to do something with them. They're pretty dim. But then fog lights aren't supposed to be super bright anyway. I've got a new set of Hella 500s, I do like the look of the stock fog lights better. I might have to see if the innards and lenses of the 500s will fit the stock housings.
Regardless, in my humble opinion, the Toyota H4s are keepers.
Regardless, in my humble opinion, the Toyota H4s are keepers.
I've got the new Hella 500 innards into my stock housings, but now the driver's side foglight has quit working. Replaced the bulb and still no joy. Since using the Toyata H4 headlight wiring harness leaves the original driver's side head light socket unplugged and the foglights work with the lowbeams on the headlights, if this might be related somehow? If it does, I'm thinking of just rewiring the the fogs with the harness that came with the Hella 500s.
Both fog lights should be on the same circuit. If one comes on, both should come on. Bad bulb, bad socket, damaged wire, dirt in the plug. Next step is to check the fog light plug using a test light or multimeter to see if it has power.
They are both switched hots, but not on the same circuit. You have a lack of continuity, blown fuse, etc in your fog circuit.
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