Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

The Silver Fox LJ Build

That was my obliquely stated point. It can’t be covered and the little spring has to have enough extension to reach the bottom of the battery, so anything inside the battery tray has to permit that. I’m going to countersink my bolts so they are as flat with the bottom as possible so the battery is as far down in the tray as possible.

That's what I did with my battery trays. I'll try and find a picture when I get home.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Yeah, Genright designed that thing around the Optima, which I ran for quite a while. The Odyssey is bigger all around.

I considered modifying the tray, but this was a lot easier.

Carving the battery to fit bothers me
 
Picked up a fusible link for the new battery cables as per @jjvw build thread. It’s supposed to be 4 gauges smaller than your main wiring. Since I’m going to 4awg the link is 8awg. This will be my weak link to protect the main electrical system.

IMG_7651.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: jjvw and lBasket
Picked up a fusible link for the new battery cables as per @jjvw build thread. It’s supposed to be 4 gauges smaller than your main wiring. Since I’m going to 4awg the link is 8awg. This will be my weak link to protect the main electrical system.

View attachment 651678

When I re-wired my battery on my MR2 I got a resettable circuit breaker instead of one of these like it had OEM
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Here's my batty tray I made work with countersunk holes for the screws & cut out the hole for the battery temperature sensor.

20240623_082700.jpg


And if you need a fusible link for your battery cables I happen to have one... I'd bought it before I 'd remembered I didn't need it with the PPW setup.
 
Here's my batty tray I made work with countersunk holes for the screws & cut out the hole for the battery temperature sensor.

View attachment 651739

And if you need a fusible link for l a battery cables I happen to have one... I'd bought it before I 'd remembered I didn't need it with the PPW setup.

Looks clean. I have some conical bolts coming today so I can see if I have enough material to countersink.

I already bought a fusible link, but thank you for the offer!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Looks clean. I have some conical bolts coming today
I'm not going to let you dilute the meanings of words by perverting their usage. This is a conical bolt. I don't think this is what you had in mind.
1761664576025.png


so I can see if I have enough material to countersink.
You should just ask for some assistance. If you are talking about trying to use flat head screws in a countersink in the bottom of the battery tray, then that is stupid easy. All you have to do is stick undercut flat heads in accurate countersinks and the problem is solved. If my guessing is inaccurate, then apologies are in order. It is much easier if I don't have to guess.
1761664974064.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and NashvilleTJ
Wouldn’t I have to add a thin plate of steel on top of the battery bracket with holes cut out for the nutserts to duplicate that method? Assuming you are talking about the underside of the frame rails. The four spacer pieces and the lower C’s keep the belly skid mounted solid rather than solely against the lower C’s and on the face of the nutserts.
The frame nutsert plates exist solely to prevent the skid from being bent up between the nutserts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
I'm not going to let you dilute the meanings of words by perverting their usage. This is a conical bolt.
Good! My vocabulary is weak in this area. I have to learn somehow.

I have already drilled out 5/16” hole through the battery tray for 1/4” bolts to pass through and I think the material is only 1/8” thick, so the material thickness is my main concern.
 
Good! My vocabulary is weak in this area. I have to learn somehow.

I have already drilled out 5/16” hole through the battery tray for 1/4” bolts to pass through and I think the material is only 1/8” thick, so the material thickness is my main concern.
Are you trying to say that you enlarged the 1/4" holes to 5/16"?
 
  • Haha
Reactions: L J
Are you trying to say that you enlarged the 1/4" holes to 5/16"?

No, if I wanted to say I enlarged them I would have said that. I said, “I have already drilled out a 5/16” hole for a 1/4” bolt to pass through…” It expresses the current status of the holes based on a past action. That is exactly what the words mean. Nothing more. Nothing less.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Woodrow
No, if I wanted to say I enlarged them I would have said that. I said, “I have already drilled out a 5/16” hole for a 1/4” bolt to pass through…” It expresses the current status of the holes based on a past action. That is exactly what the words mean. Nothing more. Nothing less.

What did you drill out the 5/16" hole to? 👼
 
  • Haha
Reactions: L J
No, if I wanted to say I enlarged them I would have said that. I said, “I have already drilled out a 5/16” hole for a 1/4” bolt to pass through…” It expresses the current status of the holes based on a past action. That is exactly what the words mean. Nothing more. Nothing less.

Well then, I'm starting to feel like English is my second language because I still don't know what you did. A 1/4" bolt already fits through a 5/16" hole so why did it get drilled out? What did you drill the 5/16" hole out to?
 
  • Haha
Reactions: L J and lBasket
"drilled out" is my misuse of the phrase. "Drilled" is the proper use. Thanks Blaine!
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts