The Silver Fox LJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
You are missing at least 2 things. I don't sell the pump, reservoir, or hose and fittings to hook them up.
I have a cooler and nearly bolt in hydro assist with the associated bits to make all that work.
The second missing bit is I am waiting on cooler mounts to arrive which are supposed to be here momentarily if the laser shop is to be believed.
PNW_LJ
Member
Rig looks great Jeremy. Very happy to see you putting your elegant touch on it.
Cut the rear frame for the tuck. Welded in a receiver hitch to the rear gas tank crossmember so I can pull my teardrop. I’ll put it back together and finish this up tomorrow after paint dries.
That and putting the receiver hitch into the crossmember to help spread the load some.
The frame tuck takes longer than I expected and the main reason is painting time. The mechanics aren’t that difficult, so far. We’ll see, but I suspect it’s going to turn out well. I love this project and with an LJ it makes a difference with that big overhang.
I followed @rasband suggestions and pics to cut the frame right where it transitions from flat to arching over the wheel well. This is 1 7/16” forward from the rear gas tank crossmember on an LJ. One of my favorite tools is a metal scribe first suggested to me by @Mike_H. Once you scribe, the cut off wheel is much easier to keep on the line.
Then you have to cut out a triangle on both sides of the frame rail. Easy, huh?! Make sure you’re careful and think it through. You ultimately leave a lower flap that you want flush/flat with the lower frame end once you bolt it back up. If you have a 1.25” BL you’d think you cut 1.25” off, but that’s incorrect because the flap you leave is 3/16” thick, so you actually cut a little above that. Trying to avoid a low spot there. Then you face another problem. Straighten the flap as much as you can. I used a crescent wrench over the end and bent it down using a mallet at the same time to get as straight as possible. I then cut a slit under the frame to weaken the metal some so I could get that part as far up as possible because it’s your most resistant point. you can also use the cut off wheel to cut a little bit more out just above that in the frame. I finally decided to bend the whole thing up into the frame and I’ll tack it at the notch first, then bend the tongue down, tack, and then I think I’ll have it. That will get it as flat as possible and then I can weld everything up and get the flap disc out to shape it all and make it look factory.
It’s a whale of a tale!
I followed @rasband suggestions and pics to cut the frame right where it transitions from flat to arching over the wheel well. This is 1 7/16” forward from the rear gas tank crossmember on an LJ. One of my favorite tools is a metal scribe first suggested to me by @Mike_H. Once you scribe, the cut off wheel is much easier to keep on the line.
Then you have to cut out a triangle on both sides of the frame rail. Easy, huh?! Make sure you’re careful and think it through. You ultimately leave a lower flap that you want flush/flat with the lower frame end once you bolt it back up. If you have a 1.25” BL you’d think you cut 1.25” off, but that’s incorrect because the flap you leave is 3/16” thick, so you actually cut a little above that. Trying to avoid a low spot there. Then you face another problem. Straighten the flap as much as you can. I used a crescent wrench over the end and bent it down using a mallet at the same time to get as straight as possible. I then cut a slit under the frame to weaken the metal some so I could get that part as far up as possible because it’s your most resistant point. you can also use the cut off wheel to cut a little bit more out just above that in the frame. I finally decided to bend the whole thing up into the frame and I’ll tack it at the notch first, then bend the tongue down, tack, and then I think I’ll have it. That will get it as flat as possible and then I can weld everything up and get the flap disc out to shape it all and make it look factory.
It’s a whale of a tale!
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Lots of goodies came from Blaine too!
I love your attention to detail and patience. I’m more of the good enough, close enough, get it done and back on the trail type patience which as they say makes a good 10 footer, not a close up looker.
I agree though, the frame tuck on an LJ is smokin, here’s my hack job.
I agree though, the frame tuck on an LJ is smokin, here’s my hack job.
Looking back at my pics I honestly can’t remember how I did it, but definitely a different approach than yours. I must have just added flat stock to the bottom.
Only pics I have is going from this:
To this:
Geez. Taking forever to get this done. A couple more days of real work and then I can get back to this. Weld thru primer in both frame sides. Frame was basically rust free apart from a little surface rust in one area.
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