Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

The project that brought me to this forum

dwkuef

New Member
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2024
Messages
12
Location
Salt Lake City
This is my first post since introduction. Hopefully I'm in the appropriate sub for this.

The main theme here is about changing my dash lights from the stock white-ish green to red backlighting, but more specifically dealing with the stock radio lighting. The first time I saw an airliner cockpit all lit up red for a night flight I've been kind of obsessed with red dash lighting and I've done it in almost every vehicle I've owned. I started replacing the dash lighting in my LJ quite a while ago, but I skipped a couple of things like the radio, afraid I might lose or break something inside.

I'd like to back up a bit here. What kind of started all this recent work was buying a Kilby OBA kit a year ago (I installed one in my YJ and loved it). The plan was to install it this last summer, but I sat on it. It was either too cold, and then too warm to work on it. In the mean time I was doing some small things to prepare for installing, like looking for a switch. I'm a bit of a switch nut also. I like the way the factory switches look, so I started looking for factory style ones, and found plenty of options. So I looked for ways to expand the switch panel and found a 7-switch position panel that was 3d scanned and printed. Very stock looking. But still not enough switch positions available. Then I had the idea of grafting my original switch panel onto the new one, expanding the panel to 10-positions. And still keeping fairly stock-looking.


IMG_6419.PNG

IMG_5643.JPG
IMG_5647.JPG



Anyway, I found with a little work it was possible to back-light all these new switches. And since I was installing lights into all these switches I thought I would finally tackle the radio lighting. To insert here, I really like my stock radio with it's in-dash 6 CD changer. Back when I bought my LJ that was a really nice feature. Like I said, I was reluctant to crack open the radio. Disassembling something like that I worry I'll break or lose some tiny critical part, but it came apart relatively easy. The face-plate lights are incandescent that had little rubber balloon like blue-ish green filters over them. Rather than trying to put LED's in, I decided to just change the filters. It was actually kind of easy to find and order some red ones.


IMG_5658.JPG

IMG_5666.JPG
IMG_5667.JPG



On the other hand, the display itself is florescent. A filter was the only way to really go. I placed a red filter over it and seemed to work ok until replacing the radio faceplate. The faceplate has a dark tint to it that barely allowed any red light getting through. At first I thought I might get a piece of clear or red plexiglass and sand it into shape, but as soon as I removed the tinted lens it was obvious it was too complex a shape to simply replace with a flat piece of plastic. Thinking about different possible solutions I decided that making a mold for a replacement was the way to go. (In hindsight, if I knew I was going to make a mold I wouldn't have bothered with the display filter, the red lens casting would have been sufficient.)


IMG_5657.JPG



Many years ago I made a silicone mold for another project, so I was pretty sure I could do this. Making the mold wasn't very hard, but getting a good casting of the mold was something else. Being a clear piece, having any bubbles was an issue and the first casting was literally full of bubbles. The second came out about as good as I could have expected. Unfortunately it was colorless and really stood out when placed on the radio face. I had ordered some red dye from the same manufacturer of the epoxy resin when I was gathering supplies, but it was over a week out. I got impatient though and went around town and found some red dye in a local art shop. Then I made some more castings with increasing amounts of dye. All of them had some small bubbles, but the last two, the bubbles didn't stand out unless closely inspected. I decided the last casting was just a touch too red. In sunlight the display was almost too dim to see. So I went with casting number five. Although I really wanted a 'perfect' casting.


IMG_6360.JPG

IMG_6370.JPG

IMG_6367.JPG


At this point I started to make them hoping it would at least be better than the previous one. In for a penny, in for a pound, I went all out. First I ordered a vacuum chamber. Meanwhile, later than I was expecting, the red dye that I ordered came in. This dye looks like a higher quality of dye, and after a new casting it showed the previous castings looked purple-ish in comparison. I also went and got a pressure pot. Then decided to make a new mold; the first mold obviously had bubbles in it, which made it incompatible with the pressure pot. Even if the surface looks smooth, the pressure will push the resin into the bubbles creating dimples, and little balls, on the surface of the casting.


IMG_E6379.JPG



Finally, with all the changes and additions, I think I got my near perfect result.
Sorry about being kind of a mega-post.


IMG_6380.JPG


IMG_6370.JPG
 
Looks very nice. You seem to be a perfectionist and definitely a not one to give up easily. Does this mean we can add you to our list of people that offer wiring and lighting help/advice?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman and NDSpeed
That's impressive,

I've got a sweep of auto meter gauges. So I put the red covers on all the light bulbs. Except the speedometer that's gps and I'm not about too open it
 
Last edited:
Very cool projects here. Nice to see another OR Fab swingout carrier in the wild.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NDSpeed
Looks very nice. You seem to be a perfectionist and definitely a not one to give up easily. Does this mean we can add you to our list of people that offer wiring and lighting help/advice?

Thank you. I've been called that before, I suspect not always a compliment though : ) . Simple electrical I'd be happy to throw my two cents, but it doesn't have to go far before it starts looking like magic to me!
 
Here you go. Idk why the camera picks up so much glare, in real life it's much more muted. Still need to tweak a couple of things though, the red side of the temperature knob is too bright.

IMG_6420.JPG

IMG_6421.JPG

IMG_6422.JPG


Even when dimmed way down the camera still picks up a lot of glare.

IMG_6423.JPG


Not really anything to do with the dash lighting, but it has the same feel to it. . . accident in front of our business and caught in the cop's flashing light.

IMG_0701.JPG
 
I decided to take care of a couple of minor issues since I've got a lot of it opened up right now, the green light from the odometer, the temperature dial, and my CB.


I thought the odometer might be easy. Not so much. I would not recommend doing this to the instrument cluster unless you're confident in your abilities. The odometer is literally at the center of the cluster, and requires pulling apart/splitting the sub assemblies to get to it. Something to note, the face of the cluster is a pretty thin and flexible piece of plastic and that plastic sheet has the instruments mounted on it. Each dial having a metal shield that is secured by the larger printed IC board. When I lifted the IC board one shell fell out. Thought for a moment I might have just wrecked it, but turned out it was easy to see where the piece came from. Once you've got this far you need to treat the big flexible face of the cluster gingerly. This flexible plastic has a few layers to it, including the tinted piece in front of the odometer IC. I broke a little retaining clip on the filter, spread the layers open a bit and slid the the filter out of the display face. Then I cut a little rectangle, removed the film over the adhesive side and stuck the red filter onto the odometer (just incase anyone it interested, the red filter material I'm using is 3M High Strength Red Lens Repair Film for broken tail lights. A little pricey but good and thick stuff). Finally, in reverse order snapped and screwed the components back together. I took it out to the Jeep and plugged it back in and ran the instrument cluster test. All checked good! Finished re-installing the cluster and panels.

IMG_E6428.JPG

IMG_E6427.JPG

IMG_6429.JPG


Next, the HVAC control temperature dial was letting too much red light through. I fixed this by going to a local window tint shop and asked for a scrap/cutting of some dark tint. An aside; These guys were really nice, they do a lot of high-end tint and vehicle wraps and I think some other custom work also. When I told them what I was doing with the tint they gave me about twenty times as much material as I needed, and then took me on a small tour of their shop. Seriously high end work. Anyway, I pulled the knobs and the face off of the HVAC panel, cut some semicircles of tint, and stuck them to the inside of the panel, in the appropriate location. Did a small test to see if it was sufficient, and popped it back in the Jeep. I didn't get any pics of the inside of the HVAC panel, I was in a rush when I did it. But here are some of the finished job.

IMG_6432.JPG

IMG_6433.JPG


The CB ended up just being a loose inline fuse. I still have one other 'lighting' issue, though. I changed all my exterior lights to LEDs and since doing that my dash turn indicators are like half-on. Outside everything looks fine, and the blink rate is normal. Anybody got any ideas about that?

IMG_6429.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
Here you go. Idk why the camera picks up so much glare, in real life it's much more muted. Still need to tweak a couple of things though, the red side of the temperature knob is too bright.

View attachment 664568
View attachment 664569
View attachment 664570

Even when dimmed way down the camera still picks up a lot of glare.

View attachment 664571

Not really anything to do with the dash lighting, but it has the same feel to it. . . accident in front of our business and caught in the cop's flashing light.

View attachment 664572
The dash looks good!
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts