Suspension Suggestions

Intimnasc

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Lifetime Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2025
Messages
155
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
So after a ton of reading and studying I have decided my jeep is already lifted either 3 1/2 inches or a sagging 4" lift. It currently has 285/75 tires on it so around 32-33 inches. I want to go to 35x12.5's next year. Below is a list of parts I am thinking of and interested in opinions and if there are more affordable options. Going to start buying with my Xmas bonus this year. I am very new to lifted and off road vehicles so I apologize in advance for any questions that are "beneath us". I'd really like some opinions on Core vs Currie I mean we are talking close to a thousand dollars of difference.

1) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9100AS?quantity=1
I am thinking these control arms from the general consensus of these forums but I am open to other ideas. (The Core 4x4 crawlers with double adjustable control arms and track bars inluded are on sale right now for 1700 dollars.) This kit suggests the weld on Johnny joint brackets for an additional 255 dollars. Is it that necessary or can I do just as well with a set of urethane bushings? I have a friend who is an amazing welder so locating and welding doesn't bother me its the 255 extra bucks for something I feel should be included at this price point. What about the eccentric washers, do I need them? In the install video I watched they left them in. Mine are currently removed compliments of the previous owner.



2) 1" Body Lift I am all over the place on this. Do I need it for the tires? Prices are all over the place does it really make a difference as ling as I use good urethane bushings? What else do I need to extend if I do a 1" body lift?

3) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS
Front track bar do I really need this? Ill buy if it is necessary and helps stabilize my ride both on and off the road.

4) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9123N
Rear track bar is it necessary as well? Do I need the geometry correction bracket?

5) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9141?quantity=1
Sway bar disconnects. These I want but am lost is this all I need? There is a lot of parts on their web site with all kinds of end links are there any other components I need for the front or rear?
 
So after a ton of reading and studying I have decided my jeep is already lifted either 3 1/2 inches or a sagging 4" lift. It currently has 285/75 tires on it so around 32-33 inches. I want to go to 35x12.5's next year. Below is a list of parts I am thinking of and interested in opinions and if there are more affordable options. Going to start buying with my Xmas bonus this year. I am very new to lifted and off road vehicles so I apologize in advance for any questions that are "beneath us". I'd really like some opinions on Core vs Currie I mean we are talking close to a thousand dollars of difference.

1) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9100AS?quantity=1
I am thinking these control arms from the general consensus of these forums but I am open to other ideas. (The Core 4x4 crawlers with double adjustable control arms and track bars inluded are on sale right now for 1700 dollars.) This kit suggests the weld on Johnny joint brackets for an additional 255 dollars. Is it that necessary or can I do just as well with a set of urethane bushings? I have a friend who is an amazing welder so locating and welding doesn't bother me its the 255 extra bucks for something I feel should be included at this price point. What about the eccentric washers, do I need them? In the install video I watched they left them in. Mine are currently removed compliments of the previous owner.



2) 1" Body Lift I am all over the place on this. Do I need it for the tires? Prices are all over the place does it really make a difference as ling as I use good urethane bushings? What else do I need to extend if I do a 1" body lift?

3) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS
Front track bar do I really need this? Ill buy if it is necessary and helps stabilize my ride both on and off the road.

4) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9123N
Rear track bar is it necessary as well? Do I need the geometry correction bracket?

5) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9141?quantity=1
Sway bar disconnects. These I want but am lost is this all I need? There is a lot of parts on their web site with all kinds of end links are there any other components I need for the front or rear?

Thought you did a “ton of reading, and studying”?
 
Assuming you read this?

Lifting a Jeep TJ

control arms $1,499

Savvy control arms

Body lift

BMB

Trac bars

JKS

Actually I read that before I joined the forums. Learned a lot and that's what started me down the Currie path on a lot of the lift components. That post is partly what got me to this forum. Keeping in mind it's a great read, it was written in 2016 so yeah I question a few things. The JKS components aren't in there anywhere nor is anything from Core. I was wanting to look at MrBlaines stuff but honestly until you posted the body mounts I forgot the name Black Magic. With a 1.25" body lift is there anything I need to move to accommodate that ie steering linkage, wiring, etc I like the idea of the Savvy arms and JKS track bars. Are they a solid brand?
 
Based on the price range you appear to be considering, and eventual 35" tires, seriously consider the Savvy control arms - Johnny joints at both ends and double adjustable for all arms. These are what I run and would buy them again without question. Adjustable track bars front and rear are mandatory, in my opinion. Skip the cheaper options and go straight to JKS and make sure to check the box for the rear relocation bracket (nice sale going on right now on JKS stuff).

You could probably delay the body lift until you go to 35s, but you may want to go ahead in case you want to install a raised fuel tank skid and/or belly up. Go with 1-1/4" if you do it since some skid packages require a bit of extra clearance. Adjustment of the radiator fan cowl is required (unless you raise the engine mounts at the same time), but not complicated. Black Magic is the go to for these (wish I knew that when I did my body lift, but mine is holding up well so far).

For sway bar disconnects, JKS is a good option here as well. They're convenient for basic disconnects, but now I'm drooling over the SwayLOC system. Unfortunately ORO doesn't participate in BF sales. :(

You'll likely also want to look into a rear DS with a bit more range if you still have the stock Rubi.

Good luck with your build, and welcome to the Jeep TJ mod obsession :p
 
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So after a ton of reading and studying I have decided my jeep is already lifted either 3 1/2 inches or a sagging 4" lift. It currently has 285/75 tires on it so around 32-33 inches. I want to go to 35x12.5's next year. Below is a list of parts I am thinking of and interested in opinions and if there are more affordable options. Going to start buying with my Xmas bonus this year. I am very new to lifted and off road vehicles so I apologize in advance for any questions that are "beneath us". I'd really like some opinions on Core vs Currie I mean we are talking close to a thousand dollars of difference.

1) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9100AS?quantity=1
I am thinking these control arms from the general consensus of these forums but I am open to other ideas. (The Core 4x4 crawlers with double adjustable control arms and track bars inluded are on sale right now for 1700 dollars.) This kit suggests the weld on Johnny joint brackets for an additional 255 dollars. Is it that necessary or can I do just as well with a set of urethane bushings? I have a friend who is an amazing welder so locating and welding doesn't bother me its the 255 extra bucks for something I feel should be included at this price point. What about the eccentric washers, do I need them? In the install video I watched they left them in. Mine are currently removed compliments of the previous owner.



2) 1" Body Lift I am all over the place on this. Do I need it for the tires? Prices are all over the place does it really make a difference as ling as I use good urethane bushings? What else do I need to extend if I do a 1" body lift?

3) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9120TJS
Front track bar do I really need this? Ill buy if it is necessary and helps stabilize my ride both on and off the road.

4) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9123N
Rear track bar is it necessary as well? Do I need the geometry correction bracket?

5) https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9141?quantity=1
Sway bar disconnects. These I want but am lost is this all I need? There is a lot of parts on their web site with all kinds of end links are there any other components I need for the front or rear?

Way back in 21 I followed the beginners guide for the most part (but no body lift or SYE) and ran just this kit (not through that place) for a couple years with 33s.

https://highhorseperformance.com/jk...fgq1Wy2TpdlRKJ404wXrhjMMfaxH-rVcx7qx05uyoTqLu

Sort of recently went from 33s to 35s.

Kept everything from the 3 " kit and just added 4" coils and longer shocks and an adjustable rear trac bar.

This is my journey.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-non-jeep-persons-98-tj-build.61193/page-6#post-1660793
 
Don't forget the cost of a regear along with all that other fancy stuff. My inexpensive Zone combo lift has served me well for 8 years.

I know it needs it and I have the gearing picked out but in a couple of years it will be 25 and no longer need emissions inspections. I'm going to do an LS swap. Figured I'd do gearing last if I just can't stand it. The 4.10s will be perfect for a 5.3 LS.
 
I know it needs it and I have the gearing picked out but in a couple of years it will be 25 and no longer need emissions inspections. I'm going to do an LS swap. Figured I'd do gearing last if I just can't stand it. The 4.10s will be perfect for a 5.3 LS.

I think you can get away with emissions as long as you have everything in line to pass the smog. @Longhorn84 is in TX too, and he’s done an LS swap. Granted he’s had some performance issues, not sure if they’ve been fixed, but he’s done it. Has some YouTube videos floating around of his journey, too.
 
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Ok ordered the Savvy control arms but I spent the extra for the 7075 Aluminum. That's aircraft grade aluminum. 200 bucks extra but shipping was free so only 125 bucks extra. I also ordered the JKS track bars. Going to order the body lift from Mrblaine tomorrow. Thank you so far guys I'll check back soon.
 
Couldn't wait ordered the body lift tonight while I was drinking and in the mood lol.

I've returned more stuff (the day after) from Amazon than I care to remember when I used to do that. I even bought a 2005 Jeep on Ebay. I kept that purchase though. 🥳
DARK BLUE JEEP.jpg
 
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So I spoke with MrBlaine on the phone last night and apparently I missed some things on the body lift. 1" motor mount spacers, something about raising the transfer case and the fan shroud. I am fairly sure I have factory motor mounts so is it better to get raised motor mounts or a 1" spacer? What do I need for the transfer case to raise it as well? Will this change anything with the drive shaft on a Rubicon?
 
I think you can get away with emissions as long as you have everything in line to pass the smog. @Longhorn84 is in TX too, and he’s done an LS swap. Granted he’s had some performance issues, not sure if they’ve been fixed, but he’s done it. Has some YouTube videos floating around of his journey, too.

I definitely know what needs to be done if I could will myself to start wrenching on it again! The list continues to grow on phase 2 of the build…
 
You will struggle to find a raised motor mount that doesn’t transfer more engine vibration then the OEM motor mounts. Often times people will opt for the motor mount spacers to reduce vibration at idle. If you dont think the vibration will be an issue to you, you could go with either option.

If you plan to do a tummy tuck later on, I would opt to keep the OEM mount and add spacers.
 
So I spoke with MrBlaine on the phone last night and apparently I missed some things on the body lift. 1" motor mount spacers, something about raising the transfer case and the fan shroud. I am fairly sure I have factory motor mounts so is it better to get raised motor mounts or a 1" spacer? What do I need for the transfer case to raise it as well? Will this change anything with the drive shaft on a Rubicon?

It’s best to get 1” MM spacers to keep vibrations down. If you do this you usually don’t have to raise the fan shroud. Go look at your shroud and the fan and note where the fan is relative to the shroud. Turn the fan by hand. It should not touch the shroud. Usually it will after a BL, so you fix that by raising the engine with some MM spacers.

You may have to lower the TCase if you get driveline vibrations after a suspension lift. Usually a lift of 2.5” or more will cause those vibrations on a TJ. I don’t know your situation there.
 
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I have a 4" lift (yeah I need to update my profile) and there is vibration at idle. I'll take a close look at the condition of my motor mounts this evening. I ordered the 1" spacers should be here Friday. So I keep hearing about the transfer case but cant find any good write ups on raising the transfer case the 1" to match the body lift. Is that a different skid plate as well or what are we talking about? Lastly when I raise these will I need to do anything with the drive shaft? I have the Savvy control arms so I can adjust the pinion angle and get the geometry right but I dont know what to do with the drive shaft or transfer case.
 
I have a 4" lift (yeah I need to update my profile) and there is vibration at idle. I'll take a close look at the condition of my motor mounts this evening. I ordered the 1" spacers should be here Friday. So I keep hearing about the transfer case but cant find any good write ups on raising the transfer case the 1" to match the body lift. Is that a different skid plate as well or what are we talking about? Lastly when I raise these will I need to do anything with the drive shaft? I have the Savvy control arms so I can adjust the pinion angle and get the geometry right but I dont know what to do with the drive shaft or transfer case.

You don’t need to do anything with the transfer case. What you are probably reading about is people who did a tummy tuck which requires raising the transfer case since they’re raising the whole belly of the rig. Yes, it’s a different skid.

Since you have a Rubicon, all you really need to do is use your rear adjustable control arms to adjust the pinion angle so that it is pointing directly at the transfer case . There are better explanations on Tom Wood driveshaft website. It’s possible you’ll need a longer rear driveshaft as well.