Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Suspension Suggestions

It's a buy-once, cry-once situation. You install a lift, your rear driveshaft (DS) will bind. You need a double-cardan DS. When doing a body lift, most do a motor mount lift (MML) & a tummy tuck (aftermarket skid which raises the transmission/transfer case. doing this also needs a new rear DS. Doing both is a definite need for a new double cardan DS.
 
Do you have a transfer case drop?

I removed mine when I did the Savvy cable shifter.

Had 1" spacers
 
You don’t need to do anything with the transfer case. What you are probably reading about is people who did a tummy tuck which requires raising the transfer case since they’re raising the whole belly of the rig. Yes, it’s a different skid.

Since you have a Rubicon, all you really need to do is use your rear adjustable control arms to adjust the pinion angle so that it is pointing directly at the transfer case . There are better explanations on Tom Wood driveshaft website. It’s possible you’ll need a longer rear driveshaft as well.
Apo0logies if I am just not understanding but I want to be sure. If I do the 1.25" body lift and 1" motor mount lift I don't have to do anything to the transfer case? There wont be a problem with the shifter? As far as the drive shaft that sucks but Ill do what I have to. I don't rock crawl enough or in bad enough places to worry yet though I am going to Moab next July.
 
It's a buy-once, cry-once situation. You install a lift, your rear driveshaft (DS) will bind. You need a double-cardan DS. When doing a body lift, most do a motor mount lift (MML) & a tummy tuck (aftermarket skid which raises the transmission/transfer case. doing this also needs a new rear DS. Doing both is a definite need for a new double cardan DS.

I don't mind buying what I need. Turned wrenches most of my life but the lifting and geometry is all new to me I just want to do it right. I don't mind a drive shaft replacement I just want to have everything ready so when I tear it apart I can put it together and have all the parts I need. I am holding off on the body lift until I get a better understanding on what I need.
Do you have a transfer case drop?

I removed mine when I did the Savvy cable shifter.

Had 1" spacers

I do not have a t-case drop and I have seen the shifter looks easy enough to install.
 
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Apo0logies if I am just not understanding but I want to be sure. If I do the 1.25" body lift and 1" motor mount lift I don't have to do anything to the transfer case? There wont be a problem with the shifter? As far as the drive shaft that sucks but Ill do what I have to. I don't rock crawl enough or in bad enough places to worry yet though I am going to Moab next July.

When you do both the motor mount lift and body lift, you are raising the body and motor in relation to one another so that they stay in the same orientation. So, the transfer case does raise up at the front (it’s tilted a bit), but that is not a major issue. The distance from the transfer case output and pinion on the differential is longer due to the 4” lift. That is why you usually need a longer driveshaft. You don’t have as much spline engagement and under articulation it could slip out. You also need to adjust pinion to point at the transfer case output shaft because otherwise you will get driveline vibrations with a double cardan driveshaft.
 
When you do both the motor mount lift and body lift, you are raising the body and motor in relation to one another so that they stay in the same orientation. So, the transfer case does raise up at the front (it’s tilted a bit), but that is not a major issue. The distance from the transfer case output and pinion on the differential is longer due to the 4” lift. That is why you usually need a longer driveshaft. You don’t have as much spline engagement and under articulation it could slip out. You also need to adjust pinion to point at the transfer case output shaft because otherwise you will get driveline vibrations with a double cardan driveshaft.

Does any of this change the relationship of the transfer case shifter to the console? I'll prolly get the cable just to appease my fears but I'm curious.
 
Does any of this change the relationship of the transfer case shifter to the console? I'll prolly get the cable just to appease my fears but I'm curious.

If you do just the body lift or just the motor mount lift then it does have a serious effect on the shifter location. When you do both it preserves it pretty well. Most get a shifter cable because the stock linkage can get a little wompy with the body lift and the cable linkage is just so much smoother.
 
Does any of this change the relationship of the transfer case shifter to the console? I'll prolly get the cable just to appease my fears but I'm curious.

Many body lift kits include hardware to adjust the transfer case linkage, if necessary. A cable shifter eliminates the need to adjust the linkage.
 
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Apo0logies if I am just not understanding but I want to be sure. If I do the 1.25" body lift and 1" motor mount lift I don't have to do anything to the transfer case? There wont be a problem with the shifter? As far as the drive shaft that sucks but Ill do what I have to. I don't rock crawl enough or in bad enough places to worry yet though I am going to Moab next July.

If its in the buget, I would do the tummy tuck and rear DS while installin the lift. The original T-case skid gets hung up on everything. You will have way more fun in Moab. Savy shift cable is a great bang for your buck, makes life in the Jeep more enjoyable.
 
If its in the buget, I would do the tummy tuck and rear DS while installin the lift. The original T-case skid gets hung up on everything. You will have way more fun in Moab. Savy shift cable is a great bang for your buck, makes life in the Jeep more enjoyable.

Man I want to but between the divorce, new home, jeep, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, track bars, control arms, body lift, shift cable, and whatever surprises await me im tapping out till my spring bonus. Lol yeah budget is tapped but you make me think. If I do the rest and buy a new drive shaft now does the drive shaft length change enough with a tummy tuck I'll need another? If so I'll keep all the parts I have until I can afford the tummy tuck too. Again sorry for questions that may be a bit beneath all the folks that have been doing this for years.
 
Man I want to but between the divorce, new home, jeep, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, track bars, control arms, body lift, shift cable, and whatever surprises await me im tapping out till my spring bonus. Lol yeah budget is tapped but you make me think. If I do the rest and buy a new drive shaft now does the drive shaft length change enough with a tummy tuck I'll need another? If so I'll keep all the parts I have until I can afford the tummy tuck too. Again sorry for questions that may be a bit beneath all the folks that have been doing this for years.

yes, don't buy the DS until the TT is complete, you will need a longer DS as the angle increases.
 
yes, don't buy the DS until the TT is complete, you will need a longer DS as the angle increases.

So should I wait till I have the tummy tuck components to do it all? I can I was just dieing to get started lol this thing is a blast. My god I'm addicted to my TJ. I was thinking after the track bars and control arms is need an alignment so I really do only wanna do things once. I'm thinking tummy tuck is what about 500 to 600 bucks?
 
You don’t have to wait. You’re only missing the skid plate and rear DS to complete the TT. This is the skid I used ($858). I did my lift first, then did the TT. You will still have a blast wheeling; you just get a better breakover angle w/ the TT. You can do the alignment yourself too and save some cash. You can also save some cash by making your own quick disconnects. Lots of YouTube vids on that, simple too. One thing I would not skip on is an engine skid, not sure if you already have one. I don’t wheel my Power Wagon because I don’t have a proper skid, yet. You can grab that from UCF as well & bolt it to your OG skid until you’re ready to to the TT.

https://undercoverfab.com/ultra-hig...00sW7mrtjO3GUHJQxVF80LVmk2jTId6oaAr3kEALw_wcB
 
yes, don't buy the DS until the TT is complete, you will need a longer DS as the angle increases.
Y
So should I wait till I have the tummy tuck components to do it all? I can I was just dieing to get started lol this thing is a blast. My god I'm addicted to my TJ. I was thinking after the track bars and control arms is need an alignment so I really do only wanna do things once. I'm thinking tummy tuck is what about 500 to 600 bucks?

You can call Tom Wood and they will help you get what you need relative to the future tuck. You don’t have to wait.
 
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You can call Tom Wood and they will help you get what you need relative to the future tuck. You don’t have to wait.

I thought I had to get a longer rear DS when I did my TT? Maybe not though....it was a few years back.
 
Ok so to be clear again lol all I need now is a skid plate and a drive shaft?

I haven’t been following everything going on, but if you call Tom Wood’s and say here’s where I am and I’m gonna do a tummy tuck in a few months. They’ll be able to set you up.
 
Man I want to but between the divorce, new home, jeep, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, track bars, control arms, body lift, shift cable, and whatever surprises await me im tapping out till my spring bonus. Lol yeah budget is tapped but you make me think. If I do the rest and buy a new drive shaft now does the drive shaft length change enough with a tummy tuck I'll need another? If so I'll keep all the parts I have until I can afford the tummy tuck too. Again sorry for questions that may be a bit beneath all the folks that have been doing this for years.

You don't have to build it all at once. Take your time, since there are multiple options out there for every mod, and based on how your build progresses might affect the best approach,ch for later mods.

And if you do it all at once, then what are you gonna do?
 
Man I want to but between the divorce, new home, jeep, cam, lifters, push rods, rocker arms, track bars, control arms, body lift, shift cable, and whatever surprises await me im tapping out till my spring bonus. Lol yeah budget is tapped but you make me think. If I do the rest and buy a new drive shaft now does the drive shaft length change enough with a tummy tuck I'll need another? If so I'll keep all the parts I have until I can afford the tummy tuck too. Again sorry for questions that may be a bit beneath all the folks that have been doing this for years.
Call and talk to TW.

I suspect they'll tell you if you go 1/2" longer than measured now, it'll be within spec if you go with a 1" higher skid later.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator