So I have the death wobbles and part track bar bushings part time rods. I wanna put the Currie in but I am not doing a lift till Spring will it work with a stock height Rubicon?
Currie Currectlink tie rods
- Thread starter Intimnasc
- Start date
stock ride height and experiencing death wobble... Start with replacing your front trac-bar bushings, make sure to get measurements of your stock trac-bar if replacing with an adjustable one. Currectlync should fit no problem
The first thing I check all joints. I get under the front and have someone start the engine and in park, turn the steering wheel back and forth quickly just enough slightly move the tires. It is pretty easy to spot a loose joint.
stock ride height and experiencing death wobble... Start with replacing your front trac-bar bushings, make sure to get measurements of your stock trac-bar if replacing with an adjustable one. Currectlync should fit no problem
Thought it needs at least 2" lift or needs to be cut?
Maybe. The potential problem is that the drag link cannot be shorted enough. If that is the case, then trim some threads off each side at the adjuster. Similar with the track bar, but the OP is a bit incoherent with the words.
Spelled time rods meant tie rods. I didn't really wanna put stock tie rods on now to fix the wobble then throw em away in the spring when I do the lift. If it won't work I'll have to buy cheap tie rods till Spring.
Funny thing I thought about that this morning. Cheap to check and rebalance if necessary. Headed to the tire shop after work. I do know the upper control arms are original factory and the drag links are looking worn.
One thing I will add, make sure to center the axle if you are going to do adjustable track bar.
I have a 4 inch lift and I couldn’t get the steering wheel straight because the drag link adjuster bottomed out. Re-centered the axle (which I should have done when installing all that) and it works fine.
The reason it worked for me was the axle was sticking out driver side about 1.5 inches and when I got it centered it pulled the pitman arm the the passenger side, which in turn straightened the steering wheel.
Now with it being stock height you may absolutely have to shave off the threads on each of the drag link ends that go inside the adjuster sleeve like what @jjvw said. I just tried to avoid doing that
I have a 4 inch lift and I couldn’t get the steering wheel straight because the drag link adjuster bottomed out. Re-centered the axle (which I should have done when installing all that) and it works fine.
The reason it worked for me was the axle was sticking out driver side about 1.5 inches and when I got it centered it pulled the pitman arm the the passenger side, which in turn straightened the steering wheel.
Now with it being stock height you may absolutely have to shave off the threads on each of the drag link ends that go inside the adjuster sleeve like what @jjvw said. I just tried to avoid doing that
Yeah at that point I'll buy cheap aftermarket tie rod ends and throw them away next year when I lift it. Definitely not cutting on the currie stuff
You can with the clearance things mentioned above, but it won't in itself cure the death wobble and costs about 4-6 times as much as the trusty ZJ V-8 mod. I just did that on my Dad's stock LR Rubi yesterday and mine quite a while ago. Solid steel and larger diameter than the stock parts. I also put a fresh tie rod end in at the pitman arm side of the drag link. His drag link joint was is good shape so I left if be.
You could very well be correct @inkedrose, I have the currectlync on my rig and it's really just a moderately thicker material than the OEM and designed to be a direct replacement.
Bought the Crown automotive set off Amazon for 169 bucks. Great advice and thank you.
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