Getting ready to install my savvy cable shifter and was curious would it be better to do the install in 2HI or 4LO? Thanks
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Savvy cable shifter
- Thread starter 98chilipepper
- Start date
Not so much 4 high, but 2 high and 4 low and it’ll take a few tries to get it adjusted just right to hit the full range.
I guess my other question would be if I need to make adjustments would I need to pull skid plate off everytime I adjust it? Thanks all
Probably would be easier but I did the entire install and adjustment without removing the skid. So, up to you
To install I plan on removing the skid but for the fine adjustments I’m hoping I don’t gotta remove it, but I guess we shall see! Lol
You should be able to get it adjusted correctly on the first try, before reinstalling the skid.
But adjustment boils down to loosening one stop-nut on the cable, and then turning the stop-nuts by hand, and then tightening it back up. That's do-able with the skid in place, if you're a little flexible.
But adjustment boils down to loosening one stop-nut on the cable, and then turning the stop-nuts by hand, and then tightening it back up. That's do-able with the skid in place, if you're a little flexible.
I did mine in 2HI, which IIRC, is when the bottom of the actuator is pushed all the way to the rear of the Jeep. When I installed mine, I didn't have to adjust it at all. It went through all 3 gears and N seamlessly. One of my favorite mods, finally got to use 4LO.
I didn't take my skid off. HUGE regret. Drop the skid.
I didn't take my skid off. HUGE regret. Drop the skid.
"So for installation,no explanation is needed; for adjustment, no explanation is possible!"
No truer words spoken.
I did the installation with the skid out while I was changing the clutch and addressing rust on the frame/skid junction. I did the adjustment with the skid in place and think I might need to tweak it a bit more. I have the NV241OR version, but it's 99% the same. I also realized reading that post that this is a good task for my cone wrenches. I've been muddling about with a crescent wrench.
https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/shop-cone-wrench-set-scw-set-3?gQT=1
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Yep I plan to remove mine just didn’t want to have to put it on and take off a bunch of times if I gotta adjust it
Not sure where that is from but it is anything but true. Housing controls the throw, cable controls the length. Length sets the at rest position in the detents, cable housing sets how far the levers move.
It came from the link to instructions Zorba posted above. I thought it was funny. I started wrenching on my own bikes when I was a little kid and cables and housing cause me no stress. But would I want to explain to my neighbor how to set up an 11 spd derailleur? No I would not.
Blaine's comment is, of course, completely correct as far as it goes - he did, after all, design the thing. My comment was somewhat tongue in cheek, but there was a learning curve that is hard to quantify - at least for me!
As for the skid, I'm sure its quite possible to adjust the thing without dropping it. I wouldn't want to do so myself - I'm old, stiff, and with my big arms and hands I have enough trouble working on this tiny vehicle. I'll take all the help I can get!
I spaced the skid off the frame with some large 7/8" galvanized washers - I think that's the best thing to do to prevent (further) rust in that area.
I've got the 241OR which is functionally similar. It's not terrible to reach up there, at least with my Barnes no-lift skid.
I did the same with washers initially and think this is the way to go. But the Barnes skid I replaced my pretty bent up and rusted stock skid with, pushed my driveshaft up over the tipping point with a 2.5" lift. I'm using some 1" drop spacers for now. When I get the DC shaft I need, I'll go back to those galvanized washers. I was ready to drive and enjoy the summer. After the 2k epoxy paint cured for a few weeks I hit it with some surface shield outside and kbs cavity coater inside. I was kinda shocked by the rust there as we don't generally have that in CO. My dad's LJ R has some developing as well, also in CO.
I did the same with washers initially and think this is the way to go. But the Barnes skid I replaced my pretty bent up and rusted stock skid with, pushed my driveshaft up over the tipping point with a 2.5" lift. I'm using some 1" drop spacers for now. When I get the DC shaft I need, I'll go back to those galvanized washers. I was ready to drive and enjoy the summer. After the 2k epoxy paint cured for a few weeks I hit it with some surface shield outside and kbs cavity coater inside. I was kinda shocked by the rust there as we don't generally have that in CO. My dad's LJ R has some developing as well, also in CO.
I like the washer idea. Mine will never see winter in new england under my ownership so I am not going to do this, but if I was driving it thru the salt and crap, I would absolutely do this and pressure wash thru there every chance I got.
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