Rubicon locker mod

Have you ever found a need to lock the front while keeping the rear unlocked?
No I have not. But, lets say for some reason the rear is not working (pump is bad, wiring has issues, air line compromised) I don't think the front will ever lock with factory setup because rear has to be locked first. With my setup I could lock the front to maximize available traction even though the rear does not work.
 
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That switch placement is interesting, I had been thinking about working with the area of the factory switch since I don’t have a hardtop/rear wiper and could possibly utilize those spots. Was that a difficult install running wires to the switches in that location?

I bought S-tech's complete kit. There's a single group of wires in wire loam that pass through the firewall and up the drivers A-pillar behind the plastic trim. The first three witches (locker power, front locker and rear locker), I disconnect the leads back to the S-Tech control module and I ran new wire along the Passenger A-pillar to control the locker mod relays connected to the three switches.
 
Speed limit? The Jeep manual says lockers are limited to 10mph. I don't always follow the rules, but I can get 10mph in 4L.View attachment 211531
The 10mph is for engaging the factory lockers. I believe they are limited to 45mph in factory configuration but I need 4 Hi wheel speed for some stuff and the factory settings combined with the 4 to 1 low range does not cut it.
 
The 10mph is for engaging the factory lockers. I believe they are limited to 45mph in factory configuration but I need 4 Hi wheel speed for some stuff and the factory settings combined with the 4 to 1 low range does not cut it.
My Rubicon lockers have never disengaged, so I'm not sure what the 45 MPH deal is.
 
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I don't see the need to engage lockers in 4hi for my use case. I did however split the front and rear switches into independent ones from the multiplexed factory switch.

Here is how I did it - this version will ensure that your dash indicator lights still work just like stock. Only thing different is two switches instead of one compared to factory setup (all other safety settings retained).

PXL_20200922_042004758.PORTRAIT-02.ORIGINAL.jpg


IMG_20200918_171426.jpg
 
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Why would ANYONE be locked on dry pavement? 🤯
These are 4 wheel drive, not all wheel drive. There is a pretty big difference between the two systems.
 
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I will be having an off road shop do the work for me, what price is reasonable for this type of job?
It's a simple job, but you might have to pay their minimum hourly rate for their minimum 1 hour of labor.
Also, they might not do it at all since it's considered bypassing a safety feature.
 
A stereo shop (do they still exist?) might be a cheaper and quicker route. It's a simple wiring and switch that these guys do all day, every day.
 
Have you ever found a need to lock the front while keeping the rear unlocked?
On Slickrock Trail earlier this year with @Plumber1 and @Lonewolf, there was a Rubicon that had dynamited his rear yoke I believe, he tried driving with the front axle locked but with the rear locked it would bind up so they towed him. If he could have switched the rear off it could have driven most the way out except for the last obstacle...The Gauntlet, We watched as they painfully winched him up, I believe he broke a front axle in the process. on my rig I have independently switched lockers and I use them separately as much as together.