Reversing a Lift

[JP_in_STL]

So I'm not new to Jeeps, but have been out of one a few years. I've owned a few XJ/MJ, a Diesel Liberty, and now a 2006 LJ I just got this past weekend for a DD. From lurking and searching here my front springs measure 16in, stock should be 12, so a 4in lift. It has 32in tires so I'm 5in + over stock. This LJ spent most of its prev life out west, no rust at all, which is why I bought. But my needs are backroads, farm fields, camping/fishing, and towing a small boat; NOT rock crawling.

Can you do 4in on stock control arms? What's on there now looks pretty normal, no stickers or showy paint color, but I'm new to TJs. The mechanical portion of swapping out the coils I'm familiar with. But drive line angles, shock lengths, brake line, etc I need some info on. I'd like to keep the near new 32in BFG tires, drop down to a 2in lift with new springs. My goals are stable road manners, adequate towing, and a lower ride height so the wife and kids can get in easier. Can I get away with just swapping the coils for a shorter set? Or do I need control arms, replace the shocks for shorter, etc. Any suggestions on Springs?

 

[zackcj7]

Posting pictures of what you have now will help the folks on here point out what has been changed and what will need to be addressed to lower it back down.

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

I have a 3" lift on my LJ, and run 32" tires. Initially it had stock length control arms. When I regeared my axles, I picked up a vibration from the faster driveshaft speed. To eliminate the vibration I went with a Slip Yoke Eliminator (SYE) and adjustable upper rear control arms.

I regeared because my 42RLE auto transmission has a miserable overdrive ratio/lock-up speed. If your LJ has a manual, you might not need to regear.

My springs are from Zone/BDS, but I'm using Rancho shocks.

 

[gatertamer]

Always post pictures .....way better than words

 

[JP_in_STL]

I will get pics tonight, only had the Jeep a few days and still getting to know it. The dealer had it up on a 4 post lift when I came to check it over for any rust issues and I should have snapped some pics then, But nothing screamed aftermarket, just the longer springs with an isolator and no huge spacer, so it may still be on stock control arms. I just don't want to drop $1500-$2500 on a replacement suspension right now if a weekend and $500 in some shorter springs/shocks will get things lowered. More than that and I will just run it

I have no intentions of going back to a completely stock height - 2in lift.

The small boat trailer I plan to haul would be less than 1500lbs, but any recommendations on 2in lift springs suitable for towing, not rock crawling and flexing.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Stock control arms are U-shaped steel, open on the bottom. No aftermarket arms are like that. Look at all 8 arms, sometimes people just replace the top or the bottom ones for adjustability.

 

[jjvw]

You never need to reduce shock ...

Never? Are you sure?

 

[gatertamer]

Not positive. But why would you?

 

[jjvw]

Not positive. But why would you?

Look at the compressed length of a shock meant for a taller ride height compared to one meant for stock ride height.

Take mine for example. Mine has 6" of up travel at ride height and 6" of down travel. If my 4" spring lift were to be removed, what would happen with my shock travel bias?

 

[Rickyd]

Not positive. But why would you?

So they don't bottom out.and so you can utilize bumpstops appropriate for the lift and tire size

 

[Rickyd]

Reversing a lift? Like lowered?

 

[JP_in_STL]

 

[JP_in_STL]

OK, so it appears that I have Stock/OEM stamped control arms. Longer sway bar links in the front. Stock drive shaft, no SYE. Not sure if the rear upper is adjustable or not as I could not get a good pic, will have to actually crawl underneath. Shocks are crusty but the steering damper is Rancho, so maybe the shocks are as well?

 

[jjvw]

OK, so it appears that I have Stock/OEM stamped control arms. Longer sway bar links in the front. Stock drive shaft, no SYE. Not sure if the rear upper is adjustable or not as I could not get a good pic, will have to actually crawl underneath. Shocks are crusty but the steering damper is Rancho, so maybe the shocks are as well?

All eight control arms are stock

 

[deadbeat son]

Those are the stock control arms. It looks like you'll need new shocks, new springs, new end links, and it looks like there's something funky with the frame-side mount on the front track bar that will have to be removed. Then check and set bumps appropriately.

 

[Rickyd]

Those are the stock control arms. It looks like you'll need new shocks, new springs, new end links, and it looks like there's something funky with the frame-side mount on the front track bar that will have to be removed. Then check and set bumps appropriately.

The axle side trackbar mount has been moved and relocated to center the axle instead of getting an adjustable bar. I'd probably just lower it and see if it needs to be moved back before the cutting and grinding

 

[deadbeat son]

The axle side trackbar mount has been moved and relocated to center the axle instead of getting an adjustable bar. I'd probably just lower it and see if it needs to be moved back before the cutting and grinding

Good call. I got twisted around looking at a photo of the rear and was trying to figure out what was going on with the frame side front track bar mount. The exhaust and lack of knuckles should have been my first clue...

 

[JP_in_STL]

It's been a bit, but I'm getting settled into this "new" Jeep. I've been reading lots of threads and doing research. Still thinking of lowering things a bit. 9yr old and the wife complain, but I did install some grab handles and steps. LJ will be my daily for snow/gravel/farmfields/fishing but no rock crawling planned.

So by measuring the coils I've got a 4in lift on this?? To the bottom of the tub/fender front is 23in and the rear 24in on BFG 32x11.5x15. Shocks are crusty, rough riding, and needing replacement. Best I can tell from the numbers and white color they are Tough Country? At minimum I need some new shocks, likely Rancho RS5000X @250. Or I can get a new 2-3in “lift” for $700-$1100 with new shocks/springs? I’m leaning towards just the new shocks, but Old Man Emu is possible?

I plan to keep the current 32’s as they were new in 2022 and basically new. For my needs I can’t see going bigger and that would force a re-gear. The 3:73 is tolerable with the 6spd.

75% of the noise and rattles were the spare tire. Found some play in the hinges, but not a lot. Then Amazon had the Mo-Ryde tire mount at $340 today so I scooped it up. Other 25% are creaks and clunks which I’m hoping are the crusty shocks. I do have what I think is a throw-out bearing making noise.

 

[TheBoogieman]

Tough Country shocks are worse than Rough Country. Buy some appropriate length Rancho rs5000X shocks and see how it rides. Then go from there. I've seen the Rancho shocks for under $200 for all four.
p.s. I hope your steering wheel is turned to the side in the pic of the steering stabilizer.

 

[JMT]

I will get pics tonight, only had the Jeep a few days and still getting to know it. The dealer had it up on a 4 post lift when I came to check it over for any rust issues and I should have snapped some pics then, But nothing screamed aftermarket, just the longer springs with an isolator and no huge spacer, so it may still be on stock control arms. I just don't want to drop $1500-$2500 on a replacement suspension right now if a weekend and $500 in some shorter springs/shocks will get things lowered. More than that and I will just run it

I have no intentions of going back to a completely stock height - 2in lift.

The small boat trailer I plan to haul would be less than 1500lbs, but any recommendations on 2in lift springs suitable for towing, not rock crawling and flexing.

OME HD 2933/2942 springs for towing.

Yes, you’ll need shorter shocks assuming the ones you have now are setup properly for a 4” lift.

You can run stock CA’s on a 2” lift.