Replacing torque boxes
- Thread starter SubLime
- Start date
Ooof, that's a chunk of change. I think it cost me about $1000 in stampings when I fixed my tub, so your parts cost is right. After doing both torque boxes, the rear boxed cross member under the tailgate, three rocker patches and two floor patches, I can say that $3000 in labor is probably reasonable as well. It's a ton of work.
I’m not trying to be a smart ass but wouldn’t it be cheaper to buy a good rust free tub? I’m looking at some rust repair myself and I fully understand the satisfaction of doing it yourself but man, I’m starting to rethink.
To be accurate, I paid a guy to replace the floors and torque boxes. Originally, the labor quote was only $1600 as I did not know that the floors were also so far gone, so I was already committed. As to a tub swap, how many hours to remove the interior, dash and everything else, move it to the new tub and then drop the new tub on the frame? If I had the garage space, time and skills to do it myself, a tub swap probably would have been a better plan. Of course, I have 14 years into this Jeep so I don't mind the money invested in it, not to mention this was my first real Jeep that could be used every day, so I have grown fond of it.
The guy I ended up with does good work, just a bit slow due to the fact he is a one man shop.
All of your points are valid, my comment wasn’t directed at any one person, just a general question. I’ve got a lot of blood and treasure into mine as well though I’ve only had it a few years and I knew going in it was going to need some (extensive?) body work, the more I crawl around underneath the more I find. Reading threads and watching videos of body repair I’m trying to figure out if I will end up opening a can of worms that goes beyond my skill level. Speaking for myself I believe a tub swap would be easier but less satisfying. Decisions, decisions…..lol
Most of the good tubs will be down south, so you're traveling with a trailer and gas money to "maybe" get one with no rust issues. Mine wasn't as bad as others in this thread, but I went over every inch of the tub and anything brown got ground or cut out. There is the satisfaction factor as well, but it came with alot of headaches.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
Any pics of the finished product?
I ordered the parts last night and hoping to get started later this week. I need a set of body mount bushings and bolts too. Hard to believe those cost over $200.
Vtx531
TJ Addict
Did you totally cut out the bracket/part of the body that the front seat bolts connects to? (Rear inner bolt)
Had some good weather, "finished" my project. I have my photos at the link below because the form is giving me some trouble. Overall turned out ok. Still have some work to do repairing the base of the roll cage and rocker panels. I had to make a custom plate washer for the rear body mount. I have yet to figure out the bolt dimensions for the Quadratek roll bar mounts, the original bolts don't seem to fit. I fell for the blue wrangler trap. Patriot blue isn't the same as the PCJ code.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Gg5eA6fBLDKjpIyfEZHw1mCfiEuhBl1j?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Gg5eA6fBLDKjpIyfEZHw1mCfiEuhBl1j?usp=sharing
Vtx531
TJ Addict
wow what an improvement. It is harder than it looks and lots more work too. I noticed you had to completely remake the panel on the front right hand side. Even that one part would be a ton of work
dodger60
New Member
I replaced mine on 97 Wrangler Sport... absolute PITA ..
My 2006 Rubicon is needing some repair but I'm looking at doing something completely different...the outside wall of the torque box is rusted through and I'm seriously contemplating cutting those bad parts out flushing and rust inhibiting inside the box and then filling with a Delrin or Nylon block between the frame and floorboards... essentially a large and rectangular body mount...I can then drill through into the body and add 2 or more extra body mount bolts through all...
Has anyone heard of a similar fix? Replacing rusty sheet metal with more sheet metal for what is basically a filler between the frame and body anyway seems a bit counterproductive.
Any input?
My 2006 Rubicon is needing some repair but I'm looking at doing something completely different...the outside wall of the torque box is rusted through and I'm seriously contemplating cutting those bad parts out flushing and rust inhibiting inside the box and then filling with a Delrin or Nylon block between the frame and floorboards... essentially a large and rectangular body mount...I can then drill through into the body and add 2 or more extra body mount bolts through all...
Has anyone heard of a similar fix? Replacing rusty sheet metal with more sheet metal for what is basically a filler between the frame and body anyway seems a bit counterproductive.
Any input?
You can replace each individual mount section of the torque box with individual repair sections, kinda what they're for.
https://www.amazon.com/Middle-Wrangler-Pocono-Metal-Craft/dp/B074DNKPX8?tag=wranglerorg-20
dodger60
New Member
Yes that is possible...but still requires a LOT of grinding and welding for what? Another part that can and will rust over time?
I'm thinking this is a permanent replacement/improvement/upgrade on the original parts...the replacement sheet metal sections aren't cheap and they are are still steel therefore in my climate anyway... extremely subject to rust!
2" x 6" Delrin cut and machined to fit tightly into the open space left by the removal of the side of the torque box should be stronger, more easily maintained, and not subject to any sort of rot...
It's an idea I'm starting to investigate and feel may be a possible permanent solution to an ongoing problem on more than just the TJ...
Like replacing the tub with welded aluminum or fiberglass or the frame with Stainless Steel by some this is one of those problematic areas I think should stop doing the same thing with the same rotting results...
Do sheet metal replacement parts work? Absolutely! Are they authentic? Yes but is that vital? We ain't taking big bucks absolutely 100% restoration on most of our rigs...we are talking durability and improvement...
Thoughts???
Anyone used full length safe t caps for the torque boxes? They are cheaper and seem alot easier and less time consuming to install. Is there a negative to using them rather than a full torque box replacement? Seems no need to figuring positioning, drilling out welds, etc... just cut out 75% if the old box and weld the cap to the remaining portion and no floor pan in the way as It welds to the bottom of the tub, no need to mess with anything inside the tub.
Similar threads
