Replacing the gas tank skid plate

Imagineer

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NE Ohio
Any have any tips or warnings about replacing the gas tank skid plate? I've found the skid plate on my '97 is somewhat rusted through and will need replaced.

I'm hoping to pull this off without removing the gas tank or disconnecting it, even if I've got to fabricate some sort of temporary support to hold the tank in place.
 
Any have any tips or warnings about replacing the gas tank skid plate? I've found the skid plate on my '97 is somewhat rusted through and will need replaced.

I'm hoping to pull this off without removing the gas tank or disconnecting it, even if I've got to fabricate some sort of temporary support to hold the tank in place.

You'll want to run the tank almost empty before you start.
 
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How rusted? Mine had holes. I cut out the damaged sections and welded in 1/8 to make it stronger.

Plenty of skids out there. Finding a not rusty one in your area is the trick.

-Mac
 
Any have any tips or warnings about replacing the gas tank skid plate? I've found the skid plate on my '97 is somewhat rusted through and will need replaced.

I'm hoping to pull this off without removing the gas tank or disconnecting it, even if I've got to fabricate some sort of temporary support to hold the tank in place.

You have to undo the fuel lines and drop the tank. The straps for the fuel tank are apart of the skid.

What ISN'T easy is what most rust belt TJ owner's come across that ruins their day, and the odds aren't in your favor if the skid is rusted out. The bolts that hold the skid up are carriage bolts, of which are retained by tiny retaining rings (similar to what's on lug studs from the factory). Those bolts very well may have never been touched despite being almost 10 years older than me, and those retainers probably rotted off years ago. When you remove the nuts, the bolts may pop up and spin. I'd suggest a decent length prybar to leverage the bolt back down and zip the nuts off. The front 3 are the biggest problem children, and one of them (farthest passenger side one) can't really be snaked out AFAIK. When my factory fuel pump died, I was greeted with carriage bolts welded to the crossmember by a PO, lucky me.

NE Ohio isn't friendly to Chrysler products. I did mine with half a tank, I just used a pump jack with a piece of OSB on it and lowered the tank out slowly. Get some of the retaining clips for the fuel lines, they WILL break. A zip tie works fine, but you're doing this ahead of time so just get the clips. O'Reilly's had them as of 2/2024.
 
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Thanks. I spent some time looking it over and I think I have it figured out. I should be able to slip a ratchet strap or two between the plastic fuel tank and the skid plate. It will be fiddly, but I think it can be done. This will keep the fuel tank supported while I take out the old skid plate.

I'm already planning on having to replace the hardware. Given that all the hardware so far on this Jeep (except the windshield frame bolts) have been seized, what a few more? Regarding the replacement skid plate, I'm planning on using another OEM one and will hit it with some spray truck bed liner before installing.
 
Thanks. I spent some time looking it over and I think I have it figured out. I should be able to slip a ratchet strap or two between the plastic fuel tank and the skid plate. It will be fiddly, but I think it can be done. This will keep the fuel tank supported while I take out the old skid plate.

I'm already planning on having to replace the hardware. Given that all the hardware so far on this Jeep (except the windshield frame bolts) have been seized, what a few more? Regarding the replacement skid plate, I'm planning on using another OEM on and will hit it with some spray truck bed liner before installing.

One thing to consider is that the tank straps could be rusted. If you don't lower the tank, you can't inspect them.
 
Thanks. I spent some time looking it over and I think I have it figured out. I should be able to slip a ratchet strap or two between the plastic fuel tank and the skid plate. It will be fiddly, but I think it can be done. This will keep the fuel tank supported while I take out the old skid plate.

I'm already planning on having to replace the hardware. Given that all the hardware so far on this Jeep (except the windshield frame bolts) have been seized, what a few more? Regarding the replacement skid plate, I'm planning on using another OEM one and will hit it with some spray truck bed liner before installing.

It's a whole lot less screwing around if you drop the tank to replace the skid.
 
Really, just drop the tank. It is the easier, softer way.
I replaced the straps and did the check-valve fix at the same time and replaced all the nuts and carriage bolts with stainless.
It's not a bad job if you plan to drop the tank.
 
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