Overheating problem

[JKP]

Dang, who dinged up the new rad? Put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad to avoid that.

Definitely hotter than normal.

Can't remember if you have one, but I would get a bluetooth OBDII reader to use with my phone while working this issue if you don't have one.

 

[Moglocker]

What rpm were you at when that picture was taken? That oil pressure looks low... assuming the factory sender is anywhere close to reality.

I approve the fan clutch bypass. I probably would have tried another 2-3 parts before going straight to the bodge...but I get why you want to prove it works first.

Mopar parts just aren't any guarantee of quality or a one time fix anymore.

Small detail... nothing relevant...but I'd get rid of those hose clamps on the cooling system hoses and replace them with original spec'd constant tension clamps.

Thread 'Part numbers and resources for constant tension hose clamps'

Nov 3, 2019

I've compiled a list of part numbers for the constant tension hose clamps for our TJ / LJ cooling system over the last couple of years. Due to various reasons, my Jeep now has worm gear clamps on it and at this time of year when the temps get cooler, I start getting leaks at the ends of some hoses, requiring a little tightening of the clamps. I'm going to be overhauling my cooling system sometime soon, so I thought I'd post up these part numbers and some links. Thanks to @Jerry Bransford for providing a link to Clips and Fasteners on a similar thread on another website...

• MountaineerTom
• Replies: 115
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 
• 

-Mac

This is a stumper?,radiator does not look new?(1st pic)there has got to be a logical fix for this,the noise from that flex fan will drive you nuts!maybe try a 180 thermostat? Mopar water pump?

 

[5TTTj]

What rpm were you at when that picture was taken? That oil pressure looks low... assuming the factory sender is anywhere close to reality.

I approve the fan clutch bypass. I probably would have tried another 2-3 parts before going straight to the bodge...but I get why you want to prove it works first.

Mopar parts just aren't any guarantee of quality or a one time fix anymore.

Small detail... nothing relevant...but I'd get rid of those hose clamps on the cooling system hoses and replace them with original spec'd constant tension clamps.

Thread 'Part numbers and resources for constant tension hose clamps'

Nov 3, 2019

I've compiled a list of part numbers for the constant tension hose clamps for our TJ / LJ cooling system over the last couple of years. Due to various reasons, my Jeep now has worm gear clamps on it and at this time of year when the temps get cooler, I start getting leaks at the ends of some hoses, requiring a little tightening of the clamps. I'm going to be overhauling my cooling system sometime soon, so I thought I'd post up these part numbers and some links. Thanks to @Jerry Bransford for providing a link to Clips and Fasteners on a similar thread on another website...

• MountaineerTom
• Replies: 115
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 
• 

-Mac

Hey Mac, telll me the theory on that. most of my vehicles have screw band clamps and I've never experienced a problem. Truthfully I never thought about it until reading your above text, then I realized the constant tension clamps expand and contract with the heat. Maybe the screw clamps are what cause the bulging of the hose just above clamp. I think I may have learned something new today.

 

[macleanflood]

Hey Mac, telll me the theory on that. most of my vehicles have screw band clamps and I've never experienced a problem. Truthfully I never thought about it until reading your above text, then I realized the constant tension clamps expand and contract with the heat. Maybe the screw clamps are what cause the bulging of the hose just above clamp. I think I may have learned something new today.

Basic rules of thermodynamics. Hot items expand. Cold items shrink. A constant tension clamps is essentially a spring that provides the correct and constant pressure across the hose no matter the temperature.

Read the linked forum post

-Mac

 

[Moglocker]

Basic rules of thermodynamics. Hot items expand. Cold items shrink. A constant tension clamps is essentially a spring that provides the correct and constant pressure across the hose no matter the temperature.

Read the linked forum post

-Mac

Great explanation,if you switch to them you really need to start with a new hose.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

What rpm were you at when that picture was taken? That oil pressure looks low... assuming the factory sender is anywhere close to reality.

I approve the fan clutch bypass. I probably would have tried another 2-3 parts before going straight to the bodge...but I get why you want to prove it works first.

Mopar parts just aren't any guarantee of quality or a one time fix anymore.

Small detail... nothing relevant...but I'd get rid of those hose clamps on the cooling system hoses and replace them with original spec'd constant tension clamps.

Thread 'Part numbers and resources for constant tension hose clamps'

Nov 3, 2019

I've compiled a list of part numbers for the constant tension hose clamps for our TJ / LJ cooling system over the last couple of years. Due to various reasons, my Jeep now has worm gear clamps on it and at this time of year when the temps get cooler, I start getting leaks at the ends of some hoses, requiring a little tightening of the clamps. I'm going to be overhauling my cooling system sometime soon, so I thought I'd post up these part numbers and some links. Thanks to @Jerry Bransford for providing a link to Clips and Fasteners on a similar thread on another website...

• MountaineerTom
• Replies: 115
• Forum: TJ Resources

• 
• 

-Mac

Probably at like 2.5-3k rpms. Sometimes my cool pressure sits a little lower. Kind of strange.

Not sure where to turn on this issue now but I suppose I’ve done what I could and it somewhat operates normally now.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Dang, who dinged up the new rad? Put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad to avoid that.

Definitely hotter than normal.

Can't remember if you have one, but I would get a bluetooth OBDII reader to use with my phone while working this issue if you don't have one.

I’m going to buy one of the Bluetooth OBD. Just seems like a good tool. And yeah the mechanic banged up the radiator…dumb. Lol

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

This is a stumper?,radiator does not look new?(1st pic)there has got to be a logical fix for this,the noise from that flex fan will drive you nuts!maybe try a 180 thermostat? Mopar water pump?

Fan noise hasn’t been too loud compared to my clutch fan. I’ve been thinking about a 180 but that doesn’t solve anything because my Jeep gets hotter than 195 so it’ll just take longer to overheat. Non mopar water pump but it’s brand new with maybe 200 miles on it.

Radiators new. 500 miles on it maybe. Mechanic just dinged up the inside changing the clutch fan.

 

[JKP]

Your RPM is in the sweet spot.

Based on my 06 gauge, you're probably 220 to 225 at that gauge indication.

 

[macleanflood]

Denso radiator didn't fix it. Winch removal didn't fix it. Water pump didn't fix it. Fan clutch removal is a band-aid at best. Oil pressure is questionable.

You've got a bad engine. That's my bet.

-Mac

 

[JKP]

Definitely should put a test gauge on it for the oil pressure.

 

[MikeE024]

Denso radiator didn't fix it. Winch removal didn't fix it. Water pump didn't fix it. Fan clutch removal is a band-aid at best. Oil pressure is questionable.

You've got a bad engine. That's my bet.

-Mac

It’s definitely worth checking oil pressure based on the gauge reading you pointed out.

 

[Moglocker]

Denso radiator didn't fix it. Winch removal didn't fix it. Water pump didn't fix it. Fan clutch removal is a band-aid at best. Oil pressure is questionable.

You've got a bad engine. That's my bet.

-Mac

Is it the 2002 on back that reads real pressure?oh I see 1997 yes at 61 mph should be on the right side of the gauge.

 

[Dvaniwaarden11]

Denso radiator didn't fix it. Winch removal didn't fix it. Water pump didn't fix it. Fan clutch removal is a band-aid at best. Oil pressure is questionable.

You've got a bad engine. That's my bet.

-Mac

Shit that would sucks. Oil pressure sits at 40 some times and sometimes sits lower. Not sure why but hope it wouldn’t be the motor.

 

[macleanflood]

Mine with ~230k sits at 22 at idle and 62 around 3k.

That's oil pressure and temperature.

-Mac

P.S. You've mentioned the gauge climbing into the red...but the cap hasn't spewed or the head gasket gone.

It's entirely possible none of your factory gauges are accurate. We don't know the pedigree of your temperature sensor or oil pressure sensor.

You may not have any problems...well, other than shitty sensors.

 

[JKP]

Is it the 2002 on back that reads real pressure?oh I see 1997 yes at 61 mph should be on the right side of the gauge.

If it has numbers, it's a gauge. L and H, it's an idiot light.

Not that the gauge is super accurate, but it does provide a good indication of what's happening.

 

[JKP]

Assuming your gauge is working, and you are around 3K, min oil pressure would be 30.

Beg, borrow, buy an oil pressure gauge.

10 PSI per 1K RPM.

 

[MikeE024]

Mine with ~230k sits at 22 at idle and 62 around 3k.

View attachment 549802

That's oil pressure and temperature.

-Mac

P.S. You've mentioned the gauge climbing into the red...but the cap hasn't spewed or the head gasket gone.

It's entirely possible none of your factory gauges are accurate. We don't know the pedigree of your temperature sensor or oil pressure sensor.

You may not have any problems...well, other than shitty sensors.

Would you be willing to report what your oil temp is in relation to your ECTs…I assume the oil is about ten degrees warmer than the coolant temp when things are all warmed up, but that’s only a guess.

 

[B1Toad]

My earlier message regarding a 180* thermostat was somehow hacked and replaced with Tim Walz photos, so Chris removed it.

Here it is:

If the ECTs run on the hotter side of good, then I’d install a 180* thermostat to see if it lowers the temps like I believe it will.

My data shows that the thermostat does more than set the floor.

My average ETCs in town with the 195* thermostat were 203-206* and 210-215* on the highway.

My average ECTs in town with the 180* thermostat are 188-192* and 195-200* on the highway.

These photos were taken on a 45 minute drive near OPs location. (98* ambient)

View attachment 549645
View attachment 549644

The temps were similar recently on a 7 hour drive in 112* ambient from AZ to CA…average speed 80+ mph.

View attachment 549779
View attachment 549780

It’s not ideal, but I’d try this before I’d run a fixed fan.

View attachment 549663

Mike, was this with AC on or AC off?

 

[macleanflood]

Would you be willing to report what your oil temp is in relation to your ECTs…I assume the oil is about ten degrees warmer than the coolant temp when things are all warmed up, but that’s only a guess.

I was doing some data gathering on that...granted I just installed the gauge...ran into town and back. Steady cruising around 45-60 mph right around 3k rpm oil temp was right around 170...low as 168, high as 177.

So that would be ~30 degrees cooler than 210.

Temperature climbed at low speeds and parking.

My downpipe from my manifold to my cat on my 97 is wrapped with DEI heat wrap.

-Mac