NP242 Transfer Case Swap?

[jwilkinson01]

@jwilkinson01 can you recommend a Np242 rebuild kit (or anyone else). One with GOOD diagrams, good identification of what seal is what etc... I got a kit all the parts just chunked into bags and into a shipping box. After complete confusion..... discovered after some phone calls and emails.... the kit ended up being a multi - vehicle one.... so some seals in kit are are used on some vehicle's by spec...... where other seals are used by other vehicle's by spec.. so you have "extra parts" that will end up NOT used in your version (such as Jeep).... well NONE of that is specified by the kit seller...they offer zero paper work, etc to show you what goes where and with what vehicle versions of 242,.... .. the seals have NO numbers on them so you can only Mic. them out to see what matches and looks similar... but that still leaves huge doubts cause they are still just little different in what you removed .... then some superseded parts are in the kit too....... so you end up with seals from the 242 you pulled a part..... with seemingly NOTHING in the kit your confident should actually be used , much less where to use them!!! AKA what should have been a simple swap out old parts for new..... turned into an absolute NIGHTMARE of a month of daily work on it (and other things).

Needed my TJ driving 2 months ago..... didnt have a choice but put 231 back in. Anyway..... maybe this winter will attempt finishing rebuilding the 242 ... thus seeking advice on a second rebuild kit so at a good point; can start all over.

Became so !@#$%%^&* frustrated that every single seal I removed..... didnt have a match in the kit .... sadly gave up after nearly a month of trying to search everything and get things to match in a way was confident that 1000 miles down the road the T-case wont blow up due to putting wrong seal in.. or backward. Closest affordable T-case rebuilder I can find is an hour away... since got nothing to drive unless I rent a car that threw a wrench in that idea. Stupid piece of shait 242 kit cost me HUGE in time and money

Modifying generic H. Freight style jack to transmission jack with an adapter and installed the 231 ... Sadly they dont make that adapter for H.Freight type jacks so you got to modify one of the adapters on the market to get it to work. Not a complaint..... knew would have to do build or buy a used transmission jack no matter what. Trivia 242 is heavier than 231 as well. Granted; 20yrs ago would have just bench pressed it and used my third arm to start the nuts.... but yee ol' shoulders cant do what what use too or. Anyway..... finally got 231 back in.

Working to start engine now (it is new to me also)... slow progress forward

Once again- Any good rebuild 242 Kit suggestions out there? one's with with real parts breakdowns, instructions, etc..

I used Novak's kit, and while it was a good kit with quality parts, it was NOT crystal clear, The directions definitely left a lot out. It also came with additional parts, mostly seals. I think different years had different seals and it is easier for them just to throw them all in and let the customer figure it out. I definitely had to make some judgement calls because what I had in the kit didn't look exactly like what I pulled out. Also, my TC was disassembled when I bought it top ship it easier, so I lost out on some of the knowledge you get with taking it apart.

I have a transmission jack from HF and I was able to pull the 231 and get the 242 bolted up in a couple of hours.

 

[Coachgeo]

I used Novak's kit, and while it was a good kit with quality parts, it was NOT crystal clear, The directions definitely left a lot out. It also came with additional parts, mostly seals. I think different years had different seals and it is easier for them just to throw them all in and let the customer figure it out. I definitely had to make some judgement calls because what I had in the kit didn't look exactly like what I pulled out. Also, my TC was disassembled when I bought it top ship it easier, so I lost out on some of the knowledge you get with taking it apart.

I have a transmission jack from HF and I was able to pull the 231 and get the 242 bolted up in a couple of hours.

will end up same boat as yourself with losing some of knowledge/memory; cause not recent taken it apart. Good to hear Novak has some semblance of instructions at least.

once built the jack adapter... and messed with it a while under Jeep ... and it falling over, or Tcase off of it... finally figured it out —- never having used one of any kind before didnt help.... took some figuring but got it. I dont give up.. just takes awhile. Next till will be much faster.

discovered
1. once T-case is at correct height/angle to match trans, studs looking seemingly lined up with trans holes etc... and she is mostly balanced and propped up additionally in case it tries to fall off the jack plate (for 2cnd/third time) before you wiggle and shove to try to move her home... Ya gotta to remove all the the transmission tie down brackets of the jack's Tranny base plate. The tie down brackets prevent you from sliding Tcase off the plate enough to get it home onto transmission.
2. you gotta put T-case in same direction you would a Transmission on the base plate.... giving you only tilt- nose/tail up and down with plate angle adjustments. Trying to put it sideways on the plate was too gangly and would make the whole thing fall over.. Was first trying that way so the adjuster would actually give you clocking ability to help line up the studs.
3. strapping with the two chains to hold T-case worked better with each one on port/starboard sides of Tcase. Kept it from falling off better when maneuvering into place, compared to a chain running across fore end & another aft end as is typically done like when installing a transmission.
4. re-discovered working in dirt sucks for rolling jacks.
5. Measure clearances!! . you need lift and taller tires. no way using trans jack adapter thang can on get T-case or trans under Jeep from rear or front cause you can't get under axles. Thus have to go in from the side Was only mm clearance to get it to pass below the chassis w/ 2.5" poor man's spring spacer lift & 35's... in Stock form no way it could get under it

considered a 2x10 under tires for smidge more clearance.. butttt... then would likely lead to needing to roll the jack up 2" on something also; once its under Jeep. If you didn't, it likely would not raise high enough to line up with the Trans. Rolling it up onto something to raise it... would be mostly : no-can do.

 

[Rickyd]

The 231 plug wont fit the sensor. You need this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089VHHCD7?tag=wranglerorg-20

Part S638 if link dies in the future.

I tried to add a new pin to the empty spot for the light in the dash connection, I went to a JY and found a 2000 Cherokee, all Cherokees are pre-wired for the light whether they have a 242 or 231, I removed the gauge cluster and took both the left and right connector in case I needed a spare (glad I did) I could not find a way to depin the connector without destroying it, even with a fancy depin kit. Even after I got one of the pins out there is no way I could get it into the empty spot on the existing TJ connector, In the end I cut off the existing connector and spliced in the Cherokee connector. You have to run a new wire from the connector all the way to the new plug for the sensor.

Even though I had diagrams for both 231 and 242 connectors I had a hard time getting the wiring right, it took a lot of trial and error. Maybe I am just not smart enough to read the diagrams right. Plus the connector from Amazon has an extra wire. What worked was:
White wire on new connector to new wire to dash
Yellow wire on new connector to black wire with red stripe on old connector
Red wire on new connector to black wire on old connector
Black wire on new connector unused

Also, even though I am using a shift gate from a 242 I had to modify it. not sure why but I needed more throw in both the front and back to get all 5 options.

Is that a cherokee gauge cluster?

 

[jwilkinson01]

Is that a cherokee gauge cluster?

I’m using my original cluster, I just replaced one of the two connectors with one from a Cherokee. This isn’t my picture, but the one on the right is the one I replaced.

If you use the one from the same side on the Cherokee, most of the wire colors match up, but not all of them

 

[jwilkinson01]

will end up same boat as yourself with losing some of knowledge/memory; cause not recent taken it apart. Good to hear Novak has some semblance of instructions at least.

once built the jack adapter... and messed with it a while under Jeep ... and it falling over, or Tcase off of it... finally figured it out —- never having used one of any kind before didnt help.... took some figuring but got it. I dont give up.. just takes awhile. Next till will be much faster.

discovered
1. once T-case is at correct height/angle to match trans, studs looking seemingly lined up with trans holes etc... and she is mostly balanced and propped up additionally in case it tries to fall off the jack plate (for 2cnd/third time) before you wiggle and shove to try to move her home... Ya gotta to remove all the the transmission tie down brackets of the jack's Tranny base plate. The tie down brackets prevent you from sliding Tcase off the plate enough to get it home onto transmission.
2. you gotta put T-case in same direction you would a Transmission on the base plate.... giving you only tilt- nose/tail up and down with plate angle adjustments. Trying to put it sideways on the plate was too gangly and would make the whole thing fall over.. Was first trying that way so the adjuster would actually give you clocking ability to help line up the studs.
3. strapping with the two chains to hold T-case worked better with each one on port/starboard sides of Tcase. Kept it from falling off better when maneuvering into place, compared to a chain running across fore end & another aft end as is typically done like when installing a transmission.
4. re-discovered working in dirt sucks for rolling jacks.
5. Measure clearances!! . you need lift and taller tires. no way using trans jack adapter thang can on get T-case or trans under Jeep from rear or front cause you can't get under axles. Thus have to go in from the side Was only mm clearance to get it to pass below the chassis w/ 2.5" poor man's spring spacer lift & 35's... in Stock form no way it could get under it

considered a 2x10 under tires for smidge more clearance.. butttt... then would likely lead to needing to roll the jack up 2" on something also; once its under Jeep. If you didn't, it likely would not raise high enough to line up with the Trans. Rolling it up onto something to raise it... would be mostly : no-can do.

View attachment 560539

it was definitely a balancing act and the transfer case almost fell on me a couple times. Getting the jack with the TC under the Jeep frame I had to be able to lean it one way then another. Having the tilt side to side and front to back on the transmission jack was essential. There was barely enough room to get it into position.

 

[jwilkinson01]

Fantastic news, I have a leak between the TC and the transmission. So I guess I am pulling the transfer case back off and figuring out what I did wrong. Maybe I used the wrong seal.

 

[Rickyd]

I’m using my original cluster, I just replaced one of the two connectors with one from a Cherokee. This isn’t my picture, but the one on the right is the one I replaced. View attachment 560615

If you use the one from the same side on the Cherokee, most of the wire colors match up, but not all of them

I guess what I meant was where did the full time indicator come from? Does the connector you're talking about have a bulb and indicator on it?

 

[jwilkinson01]

Sorry Ricky I misunderstood. So the Cherokee and the TJ use the same gauge cluster. The full-time lettering is actually there on your dash already. There’s no bulb behind it to light up. I just moved the bulb from the shift indicator over because I don’t like the shift indicator anyway. Then you have to have the Cherokee wiring connector to get the wire to light up the bulb.

 

[jwilkinson01]

So I pulled the transfer case back out today. When I separated it from the transmission, quite a bit of fluid came out. Hard to say for sure because it’s all on the ground, but maybe a cups worth. The seal seems fine. It seems to be leaking from inside the input shaft.. Which has me completely confused

 

[Rickyd]

So I pulled the transfer case back out today. When I separated it from the transmission, quite a bit of fluid came out. Hard to say for sure because it’s all on the ground, but maybe a cups worth. The seal seems fine. It seems to be leaking from inside the input shaft.. Which has me completely confused

Pop it back on for a minute and see if the tcase is low. A cups worth would be easy to tell since it holds so little

 

[jwilkinson01]

Pop it back on for a minute and see if the tcase is low. A cups worth would be easy to tell since it holds so little

I just got everything put away for the day. I’ve got to make dinner get ready for the work week.
Are you thinking maybe it could be coming from the transmission and not the trans case? When I pulled the 231 it was bone iron in there so I feel like it’s The new transfer case. Plus when I had the transfer case on the jack, if I tilted it back enough, I could get more fluid to drip from inside of the output shaft. I just don’t understand how it’s getting in there.

 

[machoheadgames]

I just got everything put away for the day. I’ve got to make dinner get ready for the work week.
Are you thinking maybe it could be coming from the transmission and not the trans case? When I pulled the 231 it was bone iron in there so I feel like it’s The new transfer case. Plus when I had the transfer case on the jack, if I tilted it back enough, I could get more fluid to drip from inside of the output shaft. I just don’t understand how it’s getting in there.

Might be leaking past the needle bearing. Pretty sure the needle bearing in the input that the main shaft rides in also provides a seal because otherwise, the input gear would be hollow with the bearing not there.

 

[jwilkinson01]

Might be leaking past the needle bearing. Pretty sure the needle bearing in the input that the main shaft rides in also provides a seal because otherwise, the input gear would be hollow with the bearing not there.

This is most likely the answer and what I was leaning towards myself, I just don’t want it to be the answer because it means I have to disassemble the entire case again

 

[machoheadgames]

This is most likely the answer and what I was leaning towards myself, I just don’t want it to be the answer because it means I have to disassemble the entire case again

Yeah….I feel that.

 

[Rickyd]

I just got everything put away for the day. I’ve got to make dinner get ready for the work week.
Are you thinking maybe it could be coming from the transmission and not the trans case? When I pulled the 231 it was bone iron in there so I feel like it’s The new transfer case. Plus when I had the transfer case on the jack, if I tilted it back enough, I could get more fluid to drip from inside of the output shaft. I just don’t understand how it’s getting in there.

I'm saying that the tcase doesn't hold much fluid. And a drop in its level should be easy to detect if you put it back for a few minutes and look in the fill plug hole.

The fluid had to come from somewhere so it's either the trans output seal or tcase input seal

When I rebuilt my tcase and installed an sye I put it back in without changing the transmission output seal because it didn't leak at all. That was a mistake. Removing the tcase and reinstalling was enough to make it leak.

 

[Wildman]

I'd check your transmission seal before I did anything else. If you can't remove your current one without messing it up then I'd get another one but I'd put it on your input shaft and see if it's a snug fit. Every other time I've heard of people with a leak like this it's always turned out to be the seal.

 

[jwilkinson01]

Well, I think I could test that easily. I can start the engine, put it in first gear let off the clutch and it should turn the transmission output shaft even without the transfer case attached I think right? And see if it leaks. I could also try to check the fluid level in the transmission because I just filled it a month ago

 

[machoheadgames]

It’s unlikely to be the transmission since the NV3550 doesn’t seal to the transfer case input like the autos and AX15 do. Even then, I’ve never had a leak on my AX15 and I’ve split it from the transfer case probably 10 different times.

But yes, to rule out the transmission, that test will work on the NV. It would throw oil everywhere on all the other transmissions except the NSG.

 

[Coachgeo]

reversed an oil seal when you put her back together maybe?

 

[jwilkinson01]

Well, it doesn't seem to be the transmission. I let it run for about 5 minutes with the 3550 output shaft spinning and not a drop