Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Normal engine temp?

It could be the sending unit, but the fact that he’s not getting any heat makes me think the engine is actually cold and it’s the stat. Plus the stat is a lot more likely to be wrong than the sending unit is to break, but if the 195* Stat doesn’t work. That would be a good second place to look.
Im not sure if you’re referring to me, the OP, but I’m getting some heat. It’s not as hot as my other TJs, I can tell because my hands are always cold. I couldn’t keep them on the vents, it’d burn. But on this one it just feels mildly warm but not hot.

It drives fine, passed emissions test. Still I’m going to replace the T-stat and see. As I’m hearing it should be running around 210.
 
Im not sure if you’re referring to me, the OP, but I’m getting decent heat. 135F from the vents. It’s not as hot as my other TJs, I can tell.

It drives fine, passed emissions test. Still I’m going to replace the T-stat and see.
Cheaper and easier to scan if you have a OBDII scanner.

You'll see I just replied to KingCarGuy2 on his comment as well.
 
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I agree with you, although when he said the heater gets hot but not as hot as previous TJ’s is somewhat subjective. For one, human‘s can not remian in contact with anything over 120-125 degrees F for any length of time without being burnt - so to be able to distinguish a temp difference of 10-20 degrees F at 185 x 195 degrees F is very, very subjective. 😀
A scanned temp reading, or better yet - 15 minutes under the hood with a new $8.00 195 degree stat will end all doubt.
I remember I couldn’t keep my hands touching the vents on my other TJs it would burn within seconds.

On this one with the heat maxed I can keep my hands there all day and it never feels hot, just warm. It’s tolerable but it’s still 40-50 degrees out. Not looking forward to winter!
 
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Did yesterday and engine wants to stay at 190F after completely warmed up.
The easy solution has been presented a few times above. All you need to do is whatever it takes to get your present thermostat replaced with a good quality 195 degree replacement. Whether you do it or you go back to tell that shop to make them do it. A Stant Superstat 195 degree would be good, it's not the only good one though.

Just make sure not to get suckered into buying a thermostat that claims to be "fail safe". That type doesn't tend to get stuck in the closed position causing overheating but they sure as hell tend to get stuck in the open position so your engine never warms up properly.
 
Im not sure if you’re referring to me, the OP, but I’m getting some heat. It’s not as hot as my other TJs, I can tell because my hands are always cold. I couldn’t keep them on the vents, it’d burn. But on this one it just feels mildly warm but not hot.

It drives fine, passed emissions test. Still I’m going to replace the T-stat and see. As I’m hearing it should be running around 210.
I was referring to your particular problem.
 
Update, replaced the thermostat with another Stant 195 and engine runs hotter, looks and feels like my other TJs did.

The shop that did the work back in summer, did use a Stant 195 F t-stat, though it must’ve been not operating quite right.

Pic is with the new t- stat. I could definitely feel a lot more heat! Thanks!!!

0D39D5F1-A5A7-411B-8AEE-F7CA16120130.jpeg
 
Update, replaced the thermostat with another Stant 195 and engine runs hotter, looks and feels like my other TJs did.

The shop that did the work back in summer, did use a Stant 195 F t-stat, though it must’ve been not operating quite right.

Pic is with the new t- stat. I could definitely feel a lot more heat! Thanks!!!

View attachment 202430
Yours is running right where mine does! Congrats on getting this part fixed!

And FWIW - all the stats I’ve ever looked at have the temp rating stamped into the stat. Did you get the,old stat back? If so, you might want to look just to be sure the shop isn’t trying to jack you around - you know “Trust, but verify” 😀.
 
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It's rare, but new stats do stick open sometimes. In the past, I have tested them in boiling water before the install.
 
It's rare, but new stats do stick open sometimes. In the past, I have tested them in boiling water before the install.
every time, you would not belive how many dead ones I used to get (actually got a good one first time one the jeep, maybe that's the stanly price)
 
every time, you would not belive how many dead ones I used to get (actually got a good one first time one the jeep, maybe that's the stanly price)
Last one I had failed open almost immediately after install. Check in boiling water prior to install - doesn't add that much extra time to verify. (y)
 
Yes I pulled the old one out, and it’s marked “195 A” in the center. Mine was marked 195 F which is Fahrenheit.

Im going to call the shop, they told me they warranty their stuff. But also said it was good the Jeep was runnin low. They really overcharged me for such a simple job, and then I got a defective part on top of it.
 
Interesting - been a shade tree mechanic since the middle 60’s, have never run into this problem. Not to be argumentative with @RMETeeJay, @KingCarGuyZ , and @beaufrusetta , but if the bad thermostat failure rate were that high, one would think that a high number of new cars would be in the shop soon after delivery to the buyer.
Either that or maybe the OEM engine builders have Homer Simpson sitting next to a boiling pot of water testing stats as he assembles the stat into the engine. 😂
I just can’t see where the OEM’s have that much of a technical advantage on such a simple design - to the point that it wouldn’t surprise me that Stant builds stats for OEM use.
But that’s just me thinking. 🥺
 
Also my buddy who helped me swap it, noticed radiator cap is low. Shows 9lb. pressure. On the cap it says it’s rated for 18 lbs. he thought that could have something to do with this. I’m going to get a new one!
 
Yes I pulled the old one out, and it’s marked “195 A” in the center. Mine was marked 195 F which is Fahrenheit.

Im going to call the shop, they told me they warranty their stuff. But also said it was good the Jeep was runnin low. They really overcharged me for such a simple job, and then I got a defective part on top of it.
If it took them 15 minutes to change then they drank a cup of coffee while doing it.

Don’t know that the F was anything more than coincidental unless A is represents an unknown to me interstellar temperature reference.
 
Interesting - been a shade tree mechanic since the middle 60’s, have never run into this problem. Not to be argumentative with @RMETeeJay, @KingCarGuyZ , and @beaufrusetta , but if the bad thermostat failure rate were that high, one would think that a high number of new cars would be in the shop soon after delivery to the buyer.
Either that or maybe the OEM engine builders have Homer Simpson sitting next to a boiling pot of water testing stats as he assembles the stat into the engine. 😂
I just can’t see where the OEM’s have that much of a technical advantage on such a simple design - to the point that it wouldn’t surprise me that Stant builds stats for OEM use.
But that’s just me thinking. 🥺
If I got stantlys or OEM T-stats (like I did for the Jeep) most of the time I imagine my failure rate would be much lower (stantly passed the test first try) however I’m a cheap bastard that generally buys cheap parts unless he has a good reason not to, so I have to test my stuff. And lemme tell you the failure rate on $3 autozone thermostats is shockingly high, at least round here.
 
Also my buddy who helped me swap it, noticed radiator cap is low. Shows 9lb. pressure. On the cap it says it’s rated for 18 lbs. he thought that could have something to do with this. I’m going to get a new one!
At 9 pounds, water boils at ~235 degrees, at 18 pounds, ~250 degrees.

And while the coolant temperature is 210 at the sensor (with a 195 degree stat at that!), it is very possible that next to the cylinder walls it’s temperature could be much hotter - to the point of causing a steam layer next to the cylinder wall if the system pressure wasn’t high enough.
An underrated cap would allow that steaming, and my opinion is would result in cylinder scoring due to lack of cooling (steam will not conduct as much heat as water or coolant will).
FWIW - the minuscule amount of steam is quickly condensed by the surrounding coolant - it doesn’t make its way back to the radiator to cause boil over (as opposed to what is seen with a blown head gasket which forces exhaust gasses into the coolant and causes the radiator cap to relieve pressure (and is often the cause of boil over).
 
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If I got stantlys or OEM T-stats (like I did for the Jeep) most of the time I imagine my failure rate would be much lower (stantly passed the test first try) however I’m a cheap bastard that generally buys cheap parts unless he has a good reason not to, so I have to test my stuff. And lemme tell you the failure rate on $3 autozone thermostats is shockingly high, at least round here.
I hear ya - we acquired a ‘91 motorhome a couple of years back. Had a bad fuel pump in the 60 gallon gas tank, with ~40 gallons of gas in it. You have to drop the tank to replace the pump.
went to Oreillys to get a replacement. They had 3 options. The counter guy gave me the prices, and was somewhat clueless about reliability - price doesn’t dictate reliability.
So I went with the Bosch. Knock on wood - 10k miles later it still works like new.
And it turns out the pump was probably still good - what failed was the 2” long rubber hose connecting the pump to the supply tube. It blew apart - probably because it wasn’t designed to handle alcohol laced gasoline’s. The new pump even included that hose!
 
I hear ya - we acquired a ‘91 motorhome a couple of years back. Had a bad fuel pump in the 60 gallon gas tank, with ~40 gallons of gas in it. You have to drop the tank to replace the pump.
went to Oreillys to get a replacement. They had 3 options. The counter guy gave me the prices, and was somewhat clueless about reliability - price doesn’t dictate reliability.
So I went with the Bosch. Knock on wood - 10k miles later it still works like new.
And it turns out the pump was probably still good - what failed was the 2” long rubber hose connecting the pump to the supply tube. It blew apart - probably because it wasn’t designed to handle alcohol laced gasoline’s. The new pump even included that hose!
agreed, when I did the 02's on the jeep, I want Bosch at the orileys counter (not knowing, and Bosch has a great reputation as OEM equivalent in the VW world) boy was that a mistake, had to pull them out and throw in NTK's. that was the first real useful piece of info I got from the forum.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts