No crank, no start (got lucky and started it to get home)

LDBlover

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Jul 20, 2025
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Jacksonville, FL
Hey guys,

I just did a full clutch job, new valve cover gasket, new spark plugs, new ignition coils, new battery, and a new ignition switch, only to have this weird issue going on where I have full power, but no crank. I went underneath and tapped on the starter, had the wife try to crank the jeep up.. heard a click. Strange…. But no start or crank.

What happens is that everything lights up on the dash…. Headlights work and all, yet the car won’t crank. Somehow we got lucky and she started it up by being really gentle with the key in the ignition cylinder. I thought the ignition switch was just bad, as I check the starter relay fuse. Even swapped it with the horn fuse and it still worked. When inside the ignition assembly, I checked the actuator pin and it looked intact. The square metal casing was intact as well. After I installed the new ignition switch, it cranked up after a very slight hesitation. It started up twice after that and then would not start up after being warm.

Let me know what you guys think. I’m thinking that it could be the ignition cylinder.. I may decide to replace the actuator and the cylinder so they can all be new as a system…. Not sure. I am quite puzzled, as I’ve never encountered this issue before with any car I’ve worked on. I made sure that all connectors were plugged in to the right places as well, so this is quite puzzling.

Looking forward to hearing back.
 
Have you hooked up a scanner? If your cam or crankshaft sensors are wonky, the scanner will identify it, and may also give you other points to check.
 
Thanks for your suggestion. Yes, I’ve hooked up a scanner. No codes whatsoever

Need something that reads live ODB data.

Then you can monitor the PIDs for different sensors and get a better feel for where the error is coming from.

Helps too to get a cleanish baseline when the engine is running well so you can identify discrepancies.

-Mac
 
The other issue I have experienced is the ignition key cylinder itself had cracked. I could turn the key, but it wouldn't initiate the starter. I did a push start to get home and then jumped the starter to verify once I was home.
 
The other issue I have experienced is the ignition key cylinder itself had cracked. I could turn the key, but it wouldn't initiate the starter. I did a push start to get home and then jumped the starter to verify once I was home.

So the other night, I got it to start a few times here and there. Something odd I noticed was that the key could be jiggled vertically and i could pull it out a bit, which would shut off the radio and make it so that when i tried to crank the car, it was a bit sticky. It would stay stuck in that cranking position for a second and then come back.

I imagine that the cylinder is bar, but I ordered the Dorman actuator pin and the cylinder with that mechanical relearn tube. I have one of those gray keys. Should I reuse that key?
 
I reused the same key when I manually changed out the tumbler pins in the new cylinder to match the original. But had a new key cut. My old key was worn enough I could pull it out in any position.
 
I reused the same key when I manually changed out the tumbler pins in the new cylinder to match the original. But had a new key cut. My old key was worn enough I could pull it out in any position.

I got a cylinder that has this thing. I heard you just turn you key in it a few times and it becomes usable with whatever key you’ve got.

Another question I have is if there is a way around having to use my gray key. I think it’s some type of antitheft key called SKIM? Not sure if that’s present in 03 jeeps, but if I use a black key, it will shut off after a few secs back when it wasn’t having starting issues.

IMG_5680.png
 
Where does this plug go into? I found this while installing the ignition parts. Maybe I misaligned something but new switch, actuator pin, and cylinder didn’t do shit.
 
It was the clutch safety switch guys. Had to put the plastic piece in properly too that allows it to mate with the rear of the master cylinder.. the clutch pedal pin keeps falling off it bumped with foot the wrong way or if there is a shock or incline change steep enough for it to fall out.

Driving fine now but having to be mindful to not knock the clutch pedal loose.
 
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