Or go to a pawn shop and buy an almost new corded brand name - I bought a DeWalt like that. Even though I have a handful of battery tools now, most of mine are still plug in and it makes more sense for the occasional use they receive.
New Tool Day
- Thread starter WVJeep304
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Or go to a pawn shop and buy an almost new corded brand name - I bought a DeWalt like that. Even though I have a handful of battery tools now, most of mine are still plug in and it makes more sense for the occasional use they receive.
I think you missed Mr. Blaine’s point. He was responding to this:
That’s an outdated ideology - one that I espoused not so long ago…. until I tried some of the M18 stuff. You likely would have a change of opinion if you tried the M18 that both he and I have. But, yes, they are more expensive and not “necessary.” However, red02tj was looking for a comparison between M12 and M18, so he’s already of a mindset to “over-buy” like some others here.
I was just going by your assertion that a corded tool was superior to any battery tool. I have many of both, I've used many of both and I don't find it to be true at all.
I think you missed Mr. Blaine’s point. He was responding to this:
That’s an outdated ideology - one that I espoused not so long ago…. until I tried some of the M18 stuff. You likely would have a change of opinion if you tried the M18 that both he and I have. But, yes, they are more expensive and not “necessary.” However, red02tj was looking for a comparison between M12 and M18, so he’s already of a mindset to “over-buy” like some others here.
I have 4 M12 tools. They are wonderful - until the battery goes flat. Yes, an M18 will last substantially longer, but sooner or later you'll be out of battery. Corded tools beat anything battery if you're using it a lot. With that said, "most" of the time, my M12s do what I need them to do, do it well, and are still going when I put the battery back in the charger. If I have a kazillion holes to drill, hundreds of board feet to saw, etc, etc, - I haul out the cord. If I have a large hole to drill and/or use a hole saw, my 1930s "Thor" low speed, high grunt drill comes out. If I have a dozen or two holes to drill with "normal" drill bits, grab the battery tool and get it done - which is most of the time.
And I do - I have two. But cords are a lot cheaper than batteries, and last longer as well. Just sayin'...
lol. All I wanted was a sanity check if the m12 fuel would meet my needs for drilling single digit holes in masonry for some outdoor lights and tv mounts, maybe low double digits hole count if I did every project on my list in one day. Or in the absence of any hammer drill to get the M18.
My comparison point in my m12 3/8 impact which takes off all my lugs and has done what I need on my non rust belt TJ and mommy suv.
My comparison point in my m12 3/8 impact which takes off all my lugs and has done what I need on my non rust belt TJ and mommy suv.
DirtyDesertRat
Member
I've never laid any kind of power wrench onto any of my vehicles.
I finally had to break down. I'm working on a timing belt change on my Volvo wagon and I needed an impact to knock the drive pully off without locking the motor.
I got a Harbor Freight Bauer 1/2" 20V impact wrench for a good price. It'll do the Volvo job, and I guess it'll be good for knocking off lug nuts and such.
I've cleaned up messes caused by impact-happy heavy-handed mechanics. I prefer a light touch. I don't use a torque wrench unless it's a critical part. Old-school, learn to feel what that bolt feels like when it stretches and before the threads gall.
I finally had to break down. I'm working on a timing belt change on my Volvo wagon and I needed an impact to knock the drive pully off without locking the motor.
I got a Harbor Freight Bauer 1/2" 20V impact wrench for a good price. It'll do the Volvo job, and I guess it'll be good for knocking off lug nuts and such.
I've cleaned up messes caused by impact-happy heavy-handed mechanics. I prefer a light touch. I don't use a torque wrench unless it's a critical part. Old-school, learn to feel what that bolt feels like when it stretches and before the threads gall.
And I do - I have two. But cords are a lot cheaper than batteries, and last longer as well. Just sayin'...
I have quite a few of both. Tend to bring out the corded stuff when i need to do a ton of grinding or cut off wheel work. M12 tools and a few Ryobi 18v are pulled out for everything else. 5/6 m12 battery's and 5 Ryobi 18v. Ryobi have done me well but don't stand up to extended grinding sessions. For heavy drilling I have 50 year old Rockwell 5/8" chuck that will probably out live me.
I would not hesitate to use my m12 drill for that type of work.
One M18 8ah Forge battery, a M18 Fuel 4 /12"/5" grinder and most of what you just posted will change.
It would have taken you less time to drill a test hole than to read the drivel in this thread.
I was pretty impressed that we could drill out an entire house for wiring with a Milwaukee M28, then later we switched to Makita M18s and they were even better. The corded Hole Hawg fitted with an auger is still needed for multiple stacked king studs but the Makita can pretty much blaze through even up to 3 stacked studs with a Bosch 7/8" self feed paddle bit and way faster then auger bits.
My personal Makita 18 volt stuff is getting pretty old but still performing great. My corded stuff, with the exception of grinders and circular saw, is collecting dust. I still have a corded Milwaukee Sawzall, rotary hammer and Hole Hawg still in their original steel carrying cases that I haven't touched in years. Maybe I should sell them to Zorba.
The Milwaukee corded rotary hammer got shelved way back when the Bosch Bulldogs with chipping action came out.
The Milwaukee corded Hole Hawg got shelved when the DeWalt one with the clutch came out, I saw a guy get knocked off a ladder using a Hole Hawg without a clutch, he broke two teeth. (In his mouth, not in the tool).
My personal Makita 18 volt stuff is getting pretty old but still performing great. My corded stuff, with the exception of grinders and circular saw, is collecting dust. I still have a corded Milwaukee Sawzall, rotary hammer and Hole Hawg still in their original steel carrying cases that I haven't touched in years. Maybe I should sell them to Zorba.
The Milwaukee corded rotary hammer got shelved way back when the Bosch Bulldogs with chipping action came out.
The Milwaukee corded Hole Hawg got shelved when the DeWalt one with the clutch came out, I saw a guy get knocked off a ladder using a Hole Hawg without a clutch, he broke two teeth. (In his mouth, not in the tool).
Here's your chance to own a drill just like Zorba's!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2664973225...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
My late father bought his in the early 50s for $100 - a LOT of money - and it wasn't new then. He and I have drilled a shit ton of holes with it over the years. I went through it about 10 years ago, repacked the gearbox, cleaned it up, and put a new cord on the thing. This eBay listing was the first I'd seen of this model, but now there's actually several of them on the site - one for everyone!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2664973225...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
My late father bought his in the early 50s for $100 - a LOT of money - and it wasn't new then. He and I have drilled a shit ton of holes with it over the years. I went through it about 10 years ago, repacked the gearbox, cleaned it up, and put a new cord on the thing. This eBay listing was the first I'd seen of this model, but now there's actually several of them on the site - one for everyone!!
Yep - ya gotta let go of the trigger, 'cause SOMETHING is going to spin!
My m18 4.5" grinder lasted several hours on a 8ah HO battery when I was cutting/grinding brackets off for the midarm. One battery charging, the other being used. It takes 5 seconds to swap them out too and im not tripping over a cord
Where the "not tripping over the cord" really shines is when you have 3 or 4 grinders out for a major project because swapping discs is time-consuming, and you're also welding. Having just the welder cords to deal with is so much nicer than either plugging/unplugging grinders or have a bunch of cords tangling up.
Where the "not tripping over the cord" really shines is when you have 3 or 4 grinders out for a major project because swapping discs is time-consuming, and you're also welding. Having just the welder cords to deal with is so much nicer than either plugging/unplugging grinders or have a bunch of cords tangling up.
1000%
Having 800$ to spend to avoid a minor inconvenience is not a life I can imagine having tbh
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