New Lift, Bad Ride

[k1n3k]

I think technically it’s right, from what I’ve read it sounds like Rancho measurements are a little weird and the “matching” size is usually a little too long. And the Zone combo lift is a 3” suspension lift, the rest of the lift comes from the BL and MML. So I would assume the 2.5” shock is right, but what do I know (not that much lol)

yeah you're right there, didn't process the "combo" part of the combo 4.25" lift so that would be the right PN

One thing that does look a bit suspect is this spot on the shaft though. It will chew the seals pretty quick if its actually as rough as it looks. should be a polished chrome surface for good sealing and minimal wear on the seal.

 

[crazyshot97]

Without any bumpstop extension you are likely slamming the shocks closed violently.

Measure from the metal cup that holds the bumps to the lower pad and compare that to how much shock shaft is exposed at ride height.

I have those same shocks and need about 2" bumpstop extension.

Ok so I can see how to measure how much shock shaft is exposed at ride height, but still a little confused about what to measure for the bumpstop comparison. As an example in this pic, am I measuring from the cup holding the rubber on top of the spring, down to where that rubber would impact if the spring was completely compressed?

 

[crazyshot97]

yeah you're right there, didn't process the "combo" part of the combo 4.25" lift so that would be the right PN

One thing that does look a bit suspect is this spot on the shaft though. It will chew the seals pretty quick if its actually as rough as it looks. should be a polished chrome surface for good sealing and minimal wear on the seal.

View attachment 636829

Hmm I’ll check that in the daylight tomorrow. Didn’t really notice it, it could just be a lighting thing but I’ll run my finger over it to see if there’s any texture

 

[jjvw]

Ok so I can see how to measure how much shock shaft is exposed at ride height, but still a little confused about what to measure for the bumpstop comparison. As an example in this pic, am I measuring from the cup holding the rubber on top of the spring, down to where that rubber would impact if the spring was completely compressed?

View attachment 636830

Don't worry about bump stops, yet.

 

[afusco1222]

Can we get a close up of this piece. Something doesn’t look right. That should be a bushing with a bar pin going through it. Pull the rubber boot down and let’s take a look at the top of the shock.

 

[Rickyd]

Ok so I can see how to measure how much shock shaft is exposed at ride height, but still a little confused about what to measure for the bumpstop comparison. As an example in this pic, am I measuring from the cup holding the rubber on top of the spring, down to where that rubber would impact if the spring was completely compressed?

View attachment 636830

From the flared edge of the cup down to the pad it will contact on hard enough bumps. The bump stop will crush up into the cup. If your shock compresses first it will be a very rough slamming sensation.

The trouble with 2-3" lifts is finding a shock that has equal up down travel from ride height that you can then set bumps stops for. In the rear of tj's you'll find the mounts are just too close together for even travel numbers and long travel.

I bought fox shocks for a larger lift and will just cut and weld the mounts to make them fit for more travel and equal travel bias

 

[JMT]

@crazyshot97

I’ve read the whole thread and you’ve got your tire pressure corrected. Doubt tire pressure would jar you as much as you described, but nonetheless it’s corrected now.

To see if your shocks are bottoming out, take 4 zip ties and put one on each of the shock shafts up close to the shock body. Make them tight so they won’t just slide down. Then go for the same drive you get all this jarring on. After, if any of the zip ties are pushed all the way up to the top then you are bottoming out that shock. If not, and you’re still getting that jarring, then something else is wrong.

Report back.

 

[Gilaguy23]

Aren't his LCA's at a awful steep angle? For 2.5" of spring lift that looks abnormal. You only get so much drop before the top of the LCA hits the LCA bracket on the axle also. Id also check the shock number on the body to see if they in fact are the correct ones.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Aren't his LCA's at a awful steep angle? For 2.5" of spring lift that looks abnormal. You only get so much drop before the top of the LCA hits the LCA bracket on the axle also. Id also check the shock number on the body to see if they in fact are the correct ones.

They do look steep. Wrong springs or maybe the shop torqued everything with the jeep on the rack with suspension hanging off the shocks.

@crazyshot97 measure the lengths of your springs at ride height and let us know what you find.

 

[Superjay5]

Hard to tell from the pics, but since the ranchos are can down, on the rear they can interfere with the lower spring perch in the axle. If that is the case it could put force on the shock it shouldn’t be seeing and put it into a bind. It’s odd that the rubber boots both have slid down at the rear and appear torn at the top. Those boots should see about zero force.

 

[Rickyd]

@crazyshot97

I’ve read the whole thread and you’ve got your tire pressure corrected. Doubt tire pressure would jar you as much as you described, but nonetheless it’s corrected now.

To see if your shocks are bottoming out, take 4 zip ties and put one on each of the shock shafts up close to the shock body. Make them tight so they won’t just slide down. Then go for the same drive you get all this jarring on. After, if any of the zip ties are pushed all the way up to the top then you are bottoming out that shock. If not, and you’re still getting that jarring, then something else is wrong.

Report back.

He would need to cut the shock boots off for that to work. I would do that anyway.

They do look steep. Wrong springs or maybe the shop torqued everything with the jeep on the rack with suspension hanging off the shocks.

@crazyshot97 measure the lengths of your springs at ride height and let us know what you find.

 

[Woodrow]

OP, you’ve got a bunch knowledgeable folks helping here already. As you can see, a lift is a can of worms. I won’t re-hash everything except to say:
1) Focus on the shock length. I’ll bet they are too short and not allowing enough down travel resulting in the harshness going over speed bumps, for example.
2) Make sure your front brake soft lines are still long enough with no tension at full axle droop and wheels turned both ways.

 

[crazyshot97]

@crazyshot97

I’ve read the whole thread and you’ve got your tire pressure corrected. Doubt tire pressure would jar you as much as you described, but nonetheless it’s corrected now.

To see if your shocks are bottoming out, take 4 zip ties and put one on each of the shock shafts up close to the shock body. Make them tight so they won’t just slide down. Then go for the same drive you get all this jarring on. After, if any of the zip ties are pushed all the way up to the top then you are bottoming out that shock. If not, and you’re still getting that jarring, then something else is wrong.

Report back.

So, I had to leave for a trip yesterday morning, but was able to do this test before I left. I didn’t want to remove the shock boots yet in case I need to go back to the shop to have them replaced, but I pushed them down as far as I could to get a zip tie fairly close to the shock body. I did the 2 front shocks and 1 rear (couldn’t move the 2nd rear shock boot without tearing it off).

After a quick 5 minute drive (including the speed bumps that are jarring) the rear shock zip tie was about half way up the shaft. Oddly, the front shock zip ties didn’t seem to move at all, they were exactly where they were when I tightened them down. I’m not sure what that would indicate, if anything, but I can’t imagine that no shock compression over several speed bumps is good?

 

[JMT]

So, I had to leave for a trip yesterday morning, but was able to do this test before I left. I didn’t want to remove the shock boots yet in case I need to go back to the shop to have them replaced, but I pushed them down as far as I could to get a zip tie fairly close to the shock body. I did the 2 front shocks and 1 rear (couldn’t move the 2nd rear shock boot without tearing it off).

After a quick 5 minute drive (including the speed bumps that are jarring) the rear shock zip tie was about half way up the shaft. Oddly, the front shock zip ties didn’t seem to move at all, they were exactly where they were when I tightened them down. I’m not sure what that would indicate, if anything, but I can’t imagine that no shock compression over several speed bumps is good?

They should have moved. Those front shocks seem locked out for some reason. That would definitely be jarring.

 

[crazyshot97]

Co

They should have moved. Those front shocks seem locked out for some reason. That would definitely be jarring.

Could it be that this kit/springs are too stiff for the weight of the Jeep? My jeep has absolutely nothing on it other than pretty conservative front and rear bumper. It has no back seat, and a soft top, and nothing in the trunk. Maybe adding weight somewhere would help? Trying to think of anything possible, I can’t imagine why 2 separate shocks would be locked out like that brand new

 

[crazyshot97]

Steep LCA would indicate wrong springs? I’ll measure springs top to bottom as soon as I’m home from this trip, Wednesday.

They do look steep. Wrong springs or maybe the shop torqued everything with the jeep on the rack with suspension hanging off the shocks.

@crazyshot97 measure the lengths of your springs at ride height and let us know what you find.

 

[jjvw]

Co


Could it be that this kit/springs are too stiff for the weight of the Jeep? My jeep has absolutely nothing on it other than pretty conservative front and rear bumper. It has no back seat, and a soft top, and nothing in the trunk. Maybe adding weight somewhere would help? Trying to think of anything possible, I can’t imagine why 2 separate shocks would be locked out like that brand new

This is not a spring problem.

You should be able to walk up to the corner of the Jeep and bounce it by hand. There should be some movement in the shocks.

 

[jjvw]

..., but I pushed them down as far as I could to get a zip tie fairly close to the shock body. I did the 2 front shocks and 1 rear (couldn’t move the 2nd rear shock boot without tearing it off).

...

For the zip tie test to work, you need to get the zip tie against the shock body at ride height. Fairly close is not good enough because it suggests that the shock body was not visible or accessible to you. That means the test was just a guess and we know nothing as a result.

Also, the tail of the zip tie needs to be cut off so that the shock boots do not interfere with the zip tie.

Removing the shock boots would eliminate both issues with this test.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Steep LCA would indicate wrong springs? I’ll measure springs top to bottom as soon as I’m home from this trip, Wednesday.

The angle gets steeper with increasing ride height, so they make it look like it's riding too high, as it would if you had 4" lift springs instead of 3".

Your shock zip tie experiment points to something else holding it up so odds of wrong springs are pretty low but the measurement will still be helpful.