New guy seeking input on my plans

[ELKiller]

Hello Everyone,

New guy here and I've been reading a LOT on this website (thanks for the insight thus far - it's been eye-opening). I just recently purchased a 1998 TJ with the 4.0L, 5-speed manual transmission, Dana 30/35 axels, and the 3.07 gears (argh!). It is basically bone stock at this point, but I don't plan on keeping it that way. I've wanted a jeep since I was 15 years old, so this project is probably fulfilling that dream, while scratching my mid-life crisis itch, at the same time. I've already gone through and taken care of all the preventive maintenance items, so now it's on to the fun stuff.

I don't intend to do any extreme 4-wheeling, but I do live in SW Colorado, so some high mountain passes are definitely in my future (for those that are familiar with the area around Ouray, think Engineer Pass, but nothing like Poughkeepsie Gulch or Black Bear).

My original plan was to lift this rig by 4" and run 33" tires, but after reading (and reading some more), that seems to make the costs grow exponentially. So, I've toned down my plans and want to go with the 2.5" lift with either 31's or 32's. In order of priority (or what I perceive the priority to be), I'm going to list the mods that I plan to install and would like your input before I lay out the cash for all this:

1) Upgrade the Dana 35 with the 'super 35 kit' (thinking revolution on this)
2) Regear to 4.10 or 4.56
3) 2.5" coil lift (thinking Rough Country here)
4) Rancho 5000's front and rear
5) Sway Bar Disconnects (I don't plan on extreme wheeling, so these may get passed on for now)
6) Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
7) Crown HD Steering upgrade
8) Rancho Steering Stabilizer
9) Tires - 31's or 32's
10) Cool wheels of some sort

Open to any and all input on this - am I missing anything, or doing anything wrong or unnecessarily?

Some random thoughts/questions: I'd like to avoid the need to install the SYE and drive-shaft if possible (this seems to be the point where costs start to balloon). I'd probably hire out the axel and gear work, but I feel comfortable doing the suspension work. With these components in mind, what are the risks that I face by going to a 32" tire?

Looking forward to your responses!

 

[Chris]

Sounds good to me! I don't see anything wrong with that setup. Though I will say you could do it with a 1.25" body lift and and 1" springs as well.

If you don't plan on doing any extreme wheeling I'd stick with 31s. There's no need to go bigger than that. Even with 31s you can do plenty of off-roading. The only place you'll be limited is in the big rocks, but that can be avoided.

Again, stick with a 31" tire. Go with a 1.25" aluminum body lift and some 1" springs or 1" spacers. You won't need to worry whatever about a SYE and the transfer case drop will be very minimal. Probably won't even need that track bar relocation bracket or adjustable track bars.

 

[KennethS]

FYI - mine is a 4.0, 5 speed, 3.73 gears, and an Old Man Emu 2" lift with 32" tires, the rest of the suspension stuff was factory for many years (control arms, track bar, etc). I'd focus on the lift and regearing as soon as possible to replace those 3.07 gears.

I've been through a lot of Arizona off-road trails with this setup.

 

[OldBuzzard]

Don't skip those Sway Bar Disconnects, they're not just for extreme wheeling. They'll keep your front tires in contact with the ground, even on all the mild-ish trails around Ouray/Silverton.

 

[ELKiller]

Thanks, everyone, for the comments and suggestions.

I’ve always been under the impression that a suspension lift is better than a body lift. What would be the benefit of going with a 1.5” body lift and a 1” coil? Is it because the angle between the transfer case and differential is reduced?

10-4, old buzzard, on the sway bar disconnects… we’ll keep those in the budget. I figured someone here would know the area!

 

[JMT]

Hello Everyone,

New guy here and I've been reading a LOT on this website (thanks for the insight thus far - it's been eye-opening). I just recently purchased a 1998 TJ with the 4.0L, 5-speed manual transmission, Dana 30/35 axels, and the 3.07 gears (argh!). It is basically bone stock at this point, but I don't plan on keeping it that way. I've wanted a jeep since I was 15 years old, so this project is probably fulfilling that dream, while scratching my mid-life crisis itch, at the same time. I've already gone through and taken care of all the preventive maintenance items, so now it's on to the fun stuff.

I don't intend to do any extreme 4-wheeling, but I do live in SW Colorado, so some high mountain passes are definitely in my future (for those that are familiar with the area around Ouray, think Engineer Pass, but nothing like Poughkeepsie Gulch or Black Bear).

My original plan was to lift this rig by 4" and run 33" tires, but after reading (and reading some more), that seems to make the costs grow exponentially. So, I've toned down my plans and want to go with the 2.5" lift with either 31's or 32's. In order of priority (or what I perceive the priority to be), I'm going to list the mods that I plan to install and would like your input before I lay out the cash for all this:

1) Upgrade the Dana 35 with the 'super 35 kit' (thinking revolution on this)
2) Regear to 4.10 or 4.56
3) 2.5" coil lift (thinking Rough Country here)
4) Rancho 5000's front and rear
5) Sway Bar Disconnects (I don't plan on extreme wheeling, so these may get passed on for now)
6) Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
7) Crown HD Steering upgrade
8) Rancho Steering Stabilizer
9) Tires - 31's or 32's
10) Cool wheels of some sort

Open to any and all input on this - am I missing anything, or doing anything wrong or unnecessarily?

Some random thoughts/questions: I'd like to avoid the need to install the SYE and drive-shaft if possible (this seems to be the point where costs start to balloon). I'd probably hire out the axel and gear work, but I feel comfortable doing the suspension work. With these components in mind, what are the risks that I face by going to a 32" tire?

Looking forward to your responses!

Your plan will work. As @Chris mentioned you could do less suspension lift and a body lift and run 32’s too. Of course, you could also do the 2.5” suspension lift as you planned and add a 1.25” body lift later and run 33’s. What you’ve laid out is a good plan for avoiding a deep rabbit hole.

 

[TheBoogieman]

FWIW, it's much cheaper to get axles from a 4 cylinder, 5 speed with 4.10 gears than to pay for a regear.

 

[ELKiller]

That may be the case if I can find one... not going to hold my breath on that happening around here, but I can call around. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[glowell222]

With that username, I was expecting a nefarious plan of sinister origin and global subjugation. I find my original intended input to now be of zero use.

 

[ELKiller]

ELKchaser would be more accurate... does that make any difference?

 

[Woodrow]

Hello Everyone,

New guy here and I've been reading a LOT on this website (thanks for the insight thus far - it's been eye-opening). I just recently purchased a 1998 TJ with the 4.0L, 5-speed manual transmission, Dana 30/35 axels, and the 3.07 gears (argh!). It is basically bone stock at this point, but I don't plan on keeping it that way. I've wanted a jeep since I was 15 years old, so this project is probably fulfilling that dream, while scratching my mid-life crisis itch, at the same time. I've already gone through and taken care of all the preventive maintenance items, so now it's on to the fun stuff.

I don't intend to do any extreme 4-wheeling, but I do live in SW Colorado, so some high mountain passes are definitely in my future (for those that are familiar with the area around Ouray, think Engineer Pass, but nothing like Poughkeepsie Gulch or Black Bear).

My original plan was to lift this rig by 4" and run 33" tires, but after reading (and reading some more), that seems to make the costs grow exponentially. So, I've toned down my plans and want to go with the 2.5" lift with either 31's or 32's. In order of priority (or what I perceive the priority to be), I'm going to list the mods that I plan to install and would like your input before I lay out the cash for all this:

1) Upgrade the Dana 35 with the 'super 35 kit' (thinking revolution on this)
2) Regear to 4.10 or 4.56
3) 2.5" coil lift (thinking Rough Country here)
4) Rancho 5000's front and rear
5) Sway Bar Disconnects (I don't plan on extreme wheeling, so these may get passed on for now)
6) Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
7) Crown HD Steering upgrade
8) Rancho Steering Stabilizer
9) Tires - 31's or 32's
10) Cool wheels of some sort

Open to any and all input on this - am I missing anything, or doing anything wrong or unnecessarily?

Some random thoughts/questions: I'd like to avoid the need to install the SYE and drive-shaft if possible (this seems to be the point where costs start to balloon). I'd probably hire out the axel and gear work, but I feel comfortable doing the suspension work. With these components in mind, what are the risks that I face by going to a 32" tire?

Looking forward to your responses!

I think your plan and pretty much all the responses you've gotten are reasonable and you are right, its a rabbit hole. I'll lay out my 2 favorite "sensible" options (short of full on 35s build):

1) 1.25" aluminum puck body lift with 1" springs spacers and 31s with a lunch box in the front diff. Full stop. This is the simplest/cheapest way to increase your capability. Prob $1000 (mostly tires). Definitely the most bang for buck.

2) Regear to 4.88 (always go lower than you think, especially for the mountains) and do a super 35 in back with lunch box in the front. Then body lift as above with 2" springs and shocks and either 32s or 33x10.5. This MIGHT or might not require SYE and adjustable rear upper control arms (I'd say or T-case drop, but I can't bring myself to rec that). Prob $5000 if you don't do the axles. Significantly better, but you can see the diminishing returns thing real quick, huh?

One way to look at building an off road rig is: Lockers and ground clearance (bigger tires that will still articulate) net the most capability, so what is the cheapest and easiest way to achieve that?

 

[RHanna]

I’ve always been under the impression that a suspension lift is better than a body lift. What would be the benefit of going with a 1.5” body lift and a 1” coil? Is it because the angle between the transfer case and differential is reduced?

A body lift is a cheap and easy way of gaining 1-1.5"

 

[Woodrow]

I’ve always been under the impression that a suspension lift is better than a body lift. What would be the benefit of going with a 1.5” body lift and a 1” coil? Is it because the angle between the transfer case and differential is reduced?

Yes. You can clear larger tires, while maintaining good suspension and drive line geometry. Stock TJ suspension articulates pretty well with around 7 inches of shock travel. 2 things though; you want aluminum or some other non compressible material like the BMB units for the pucks and 1.25" is effective and safe but large body lifts are NOT a good idea.

A body lift is a cheap and easy way of gaining 1-1.5"

And its cheap and easy.

 

[ELKiller]

I think your plan and pretty much all the responses you've gotten are reasonable and you are right, its a rabbit hole. I'll lay out my 2 favorite "sensible" options (short of full on 35s build):

1) 1.25" aluminum puck body lift with 1" springs spacers and 31s with a lunch box in the front diff. Full stop. This is the simplest/cheapest way to increase your capability. Prob $1000 (mostly tires). Definitely the most bang for buck.

2) Regear to 4.88 (always go lower than you think, especially for the mountains) and do a super 35 in back with lunch box in the front. Then body lift as above with 2" springs and shocks and either 32s or 33x10.5. This MIGHT or might not require SYE and adjustable rear upper control arms (I'd say or T-case drop, but I can't bring myself to rec that). Prob $5000 if you don't do the axles. Significantly better, but you can see the diminishing returns thing real quick, huh?

One way to look at building an off road rig is: Lockers and ground clearance (bigger tires that will still articulate) net the most capability, so what is the cheapest and easiest way to achieve that?

This seems like just the information I was looking for! Thank you!

When you say "Prob $5000 if you don't do the axles", are you referring to the Super 35, or what exactly?

 

[ELKiller]

Yes. You can clear larger tires, while maintaining good suspension and drive line geometry. Stock TJ suspension articulates pretty well with around 7 inches of shock travel. 2 things though; you want aluminum or some other non compressible material like the BMB units for the pucks and 1.25" is effective and safe but large body lifts are NOT a good idea.

And its cheap and easy.

Perfect, thanks! I'm starting to see the light

 

[ELKiller]

I was just reading another thread (see post #10) that says you must include a locker if you do a super 35... is this true?

 

[Rickyd]

Hello Everyone,

New guy here and I've been reading a LOT on this website (thanks for the insight thus far - it's been eye-opening). I just recently purchased a 1998 TJ with the 4.0L, 5-speed manual transmission, Dana 30/35 axels, and the 3.07 gears (argh!). It is basically bone stock at this point, but I don't plan on keeping it that way. I've wanted a jeep since I was 15 years old, so this project is probably fulfilling that dream, while scratching my mid-life crisis itch, at the same time. I've already gone through and taken care of all the preventive maintenance items, so now it's on to the fun stuff.

I don't intend to do any extreme 4-wheeling, but I do live in SW Colorado, so some high mountain passes are definitely in my future (for those that are familiar with the area around Ouray, think Engineer Pass, but nothing like Poughkeepsie Gulch or Black Bear).

My original plan was to lift this rig by 4" and run 33" tires, but after reading (and reading some more), that seems to make the costs grow exponentially. So, I've toned down my plans and want to go with the 2.5" lift with either 31's or 32's. In order of priority (or what I perceive the priority to be), I'm going to list the mods that I plan to install and would like your input before I lay out the cash for all this:

1) Upgrade the Dana 35 with the 'super 35 kit' (thinking revolution on this)
2) Regear to 4.10 or 4.56
3) 2.5" coil lift (thinking Rough Country here)
4) Rancho 5000's front and rear
5) Sway Bar Disconnects (I don't plan on extreme wheeling, so these may get passed on for now)
6) Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
7) Crown HD Steering upgrade
8) Rancho Steering Stabilizer
9) Tires - 31's or 32's
10) Cool wheels of some sort

Open to any and all input on this - am I missing anything, or doing anything wrong or unnecessarily?

Some random thoughts/questions: I'd like to avoid the need to install the SYE and drive-shaft if possible (this seems to be the point where costs start to balloon). I'd probably hire out the axel and gear work, but I feel comfortable doing the suspension work. With these components in mind, what are the risks that I face by going to a 32" tire?

Looking forward to your responses!

I would use jks,zone,ome before rough country parts.

Cheapest bang for the buck to me-

1" coil spacers,3.73 axles from another tj,0-2" lift shocks and 31s. 31s fit stock but you'd get a little more flex with the longer shocks.

Your posted plan is nice.and a great setup for mild wheeling. You get a locker,more travel and good offroad gearing. Not cheap but I'd do that to a mild tj any day. With the caveat that adding an sye to that list wouldn't bother me at all.

 

[Rickyd]

I was just reading another thread (see post #10) that says you must include a locker if you do a super 35... is this true?

Yes

 

[ELKiller]

Yes

More dollar signs flying away

This is probably why sourcing a Dana 44 from the scrap yard is highly recommended, eh?

 

[Rickyd]

More dollar signs flying away

This is probably why sourcing a Dana 44 from the scrap yard is highly recommended, eh?

No need for a Dana 44 if you stay with smaller tires.

Good first additions to any 4x4 are lockers and a winch. The rubicon is a very capable little tj thanks to lockers