Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

New guy seeking input on my plans

More dollar signs flying away :ROFLMAO:

This is probably why sourcing a Dana 44 from the scrap yard is highly recommended, eh?

It's because nobody (to my knowledge) makes a 30 spline carrier that isn't a locker. And to go to a super 35, that includes 30 spline axle shafts. It's one of those rabbit holes others have mentioned!
 
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This seems like just the information I was looking for! Thank you!

When you say "Prob $5000 if you don't do the axles", are you referring to the Super 35, or what exactly?

Sorry, I meant if you pay someone to do the axles (meaning re-gear front and rear and install the front lunch box locker and rear super 35 which includes a locker and 30 spline 1541H alloy axle shafts) instead of doing them yourself. It’s generally expensive labor and if you learn to do them yourself you’ll see why.
 
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This. The disconnects are the best thing I ever put on my Jeep.

Did they allow you to climb the "mountain" without using the winch? ;) :cool:
Zorba jeep mountain.jpg
 
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Let me see if I have this straight, and feel free to correct me if I’m wrong:
  • I can do the budget build, by installing a very simple 2-ish inch lift with a combination of body lift and spring spacers, and this will clear 31” tires that wouldn’t necessarily require regearing from my current 3.07 ratio, and I have the option of adding a lunch box locker to the front Dana 30 fairly easily.
  • If I want to run 33” tires (and I really do), it would require regearing to 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 and that starts to become problematic with the stock Dana 35, because it would also require new carrier bearings. The Dana 35 may also be too weak in its stock form for these gears/tires (feel free to provide your comments on this), so a ‘super 35’ treatment is recommended. This would also require the installation of a locker (which is great, but didn’t realize it was required, and quickly added $1200ish the build cost). This may, or may not, require the installation of the SYE and Double Cardan Drive shaft.
It seems that my original perception, that the costs start to balloon when the SYE and DC drive shaft are needed, wasn’t exactly right… now it sounds like the Dana 35 grabs your wallet as soon as you look at it. Regardless, this is something I’ve wanted for a LONG time, so I think I’ll probably go with the ‘mild’ build, utilizing the super 35. It’ll get me lockers front and rear, the 33” tires that I really wanted (both for capabilities and looks), and ultimately the rig that I’ve had in my mind for so long. With that said, what would you guys expect to pay a shop to do:
  • The super 35 build (to include an e-locker)
  • Lunchbox locker on front axle
  • Regear to 4.56
Also, if going to this length, would you stick with the lunch box locker on the front, or substitute an e-locker?
 
Also, if going to this length, would you stick with the lunch box locker on the front, or substitute an e-locker?

e-locker or air would be ideal but IMHO it's a lot of money to sink into a weak axle.

Pros
1) You can match electric or air lockers front and back
2) If you do much driving on snow/ice you can keep the locker off with 4wd and you're less likely to drive straight into a ditch. With a lunchbox it's engaged as long as the 4wd is selected.
3) Offroad with selectable is nice if you have a tight turn, turn off the locker, make your turn, turn them back on.


I have a lunchbox in my front axle and it wasn't that difficult to install. I still drive on the snow around here but we probably get less snow than you.
 
FYI - mine is a 4.0, 5 speed, 3.73 gears, and an Old Man Emu 2" lift with 32" tires, the rest of the suspension stuff was factory for many years (control arms, track bar, etc). I'd focus on the lift and regearing as soon as possible to replace those 3.07 gears.

I've been through a lot of Arizona off-road trails with this setup.

View attachment 630751

That's an awesome stance...a 2" lift is where my head is at ... I'll check out Old Man Emu as I'm not that familiar. Thanks!
 
Went to our local off-road shop and got a $4700 quote for the regear (4.56) and super 35 (Yukon components) with an Eaton e-locker. $1600 of that is 10 hours worth of labor. Does that sound reasonable?

What are your thoughts on utilizing a posi-track on either the front or rear, and the e-locker on the other. Sort of a mix and match to help with drivability in the winter on snowy/icy roads - using 4WD but leaving the the e-locker off. Which end would you put the posi on?

Finally, would two posi-tracks suit my needs better if I don't plan on extreme rock crawling?
 
Went to our local off-road shop and got a $4700 quote for the regear (4.56) and super 35 (Yukon components) with an Eaton e-locker. $1600 of that is 10 hours worth of labor. Does that sound reasonable?

What are your thoughts on utilizing a posi-track on either the front or rear, and the e-locker on the other. Sort of a mix and match to help with drivability in the winter on snowy/icy roads - using 4WD but leaving the the e-locker off. Which end would you put the posi on?

Finally, would two posi-tracks suit my needs better if I don't plan on extreme rock crawling?

That re-gear and super 35 price seems a little high to me but I'm not surprised. Everything is so expensive now. With regard to locker/limited slip choices, the best option for trail capability and icy road manners is selectable lockers front and rear. OFF for road driving where open diffs are the most stable. ON as necessary for trails or if you get stuck in the snow. I don't see true tracs or some other limited slip as good in most situations in a short wheelbase rig like a TJ. They are useless if you lift a wheel and you don't really want both wheels spinning if you are going road speeds in icy conditions (especially in the rear). I had F/R true tracs in mine briefly. I thought that would be a simple, effective and slightly less expensive way to go. Wrong on all counts:rolleyes:
 
Went to our local off-road shop and got a $4700 quote for the regear (4.56) and super 35 (Yukon components) with an Eaton e-locker. $1600 of that is 10 hours worth of labor. Does that sound reasonable?

What are your thoughts on utilizing a posi-track on either the front or rear, and the e-locker on the other. Sort of a mix and match to help with drivability in the winter on snowy/icy roads - using 4WD but leaving the the e-locker off. Which end would you put the posi on?

Finally, would two posi-tracks suit my needs better if I don't plan on extreme rock crawling?

Does anyone make an LSD carrier for 30 spline axles for the super 35? I think you are forced to do the rear locker for the super kit?
 
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Went to our local off-road shop and got a $4700 quote for the regear (4.56) and super 35 (Yukon components) with an Eaton e-locker. $1600 of that is 10 hours worth of labor. Does that sound reasonable?

What are your thoughts on utilizing a posi-track on either the front or rear, and the e-locker on the other. Sort of a mix and match to help with drivability in the winter on snowy/icy roads - using 4WD but leaving the the e-locker off. Which end would you put the posi on?

Finally, would two posi-tracks suit my needs better if I don't plan on extreme rock crawling?

Does the quote include anything for the front other than regear?
 
I don't see true tracs or some other limited slip as good in most situations in a short wheelbase rig like a TJ. They are useless if you lift a wheel and you don't really want both wheels spinning if you are going road speeds in icy conditions (especially in the rear). I had F/R true tracs in mine briefly. I thought that would be a simple, effective and slightly less expensive way to go. Wrong on all counts:rolleyes:

I've got true tracs front and rear in mine and I've had no complaints so far. I don't tackle boulders like those in your profile picture, but I've been able to navigate some rock gardens that the Toyota guys wouldn't put tires on.

OP, if your goal when you take your jeep offroad isn't to find the most difficult obstacles, LSDs will get your almost anywhere. If you're taking your jeep out to push the envelope, lockers are the best.

Another thing to keep in mind is that lockers will generally require some amount of maintenance whether they are air or electronic. Air lines get pinched and electronics do electronics' shit. A truetrac is an install once and forget it upgrade. But again, lockers give you the best performance.
 
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Just responding to your original plan here. I did a nearly identical lift a few years back. I also got a track bar relocation bracket and that thing was a major pita to put on. About an hour into it I was cussing myself for not just getting an adjustable track bar.
 
I've got true tracs front and rear in mine and I've had no complaints so far. I don't tackle boulders like those in your profile picture, but I've been able to navigate some rock gardens that the Toyota guys wouldn't put tires on.

OP, if your goal when you take your jeep offroad isn't to find the most difficult obstacles, LSDs will get your almost anywhere. If you're taking your jeep out to push the envelope, lockers are the best.

Another thing to keep in mind is that lockers will generally require some amount of maintenance whether they are air or electronic. Air lines get pinched and electronics do electronics' shit. A truetrac is an install once and forget it upgrade. But again, lockers give you the best performance.

I’ll admit I’m one of those guys who said “I’m not building a rock crawler”. And then I went to Moab and discovered that’s EXACTLY what I wanted to build. Also , you’re right about the additional complexity (and expense) of lockers. However, in my case, F/R true tracs disappointed me well before my first outing in the rocks.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator