Gotta use a level on the hinges and the tailgate will be properly aligned with the latch and not drop down, also the FSM only has the bolt torque at 20lbs. I bumped mine up to 25lbs and no isssues for me.
MORryde HD Tailgate Hinges
- Thread starter Breto31
- Start date
Gotta use a level on the hinges and the tailgate will be properly aligned with the latch and not drop down, also the FSM only has the bolt torque at 20lbs. I bumped mine up to 25lbs and no isssues for me.
The problem with that approach is the initial installation always occurs without a tire on the mount. If one lines up the gate before the tire goes on, the weight of the tire will cause the gate to sag. How much depends on the hire heavy the spare is.
The way most will end up getting the gate to sit properly is to raise the latch side up a bit up to compensate for the spare tire once it is in place. This can take several attempts to refine the preload before things sit nicely.
Just sayin you do not need to pry, wedge. With gate in the hole and latched, hinges level and torqued reinforcement plates on. The gate should not move or sag when opened.
Just sayin you do not need to pry, wedge. With gate in the hole and latched, hinges level and torqued reinforcement plates on. The gate should not move or sag when opened.
Once adjusted properly this is correct. But not without installing the gate in a manner that accounts for the future additional weight of the spare tire. That means you do not install the gate to be level, square or evenly spaced or whatever when the spare tire is not hanging from it.
LOL whatever you say, but that is bad advice on how to do it.
I just purchased the MORryde Full Tailgate Kit and i have a 35" tire on it. There were two options i found that worked for me (using the full tailgate reinforcement kit). If your spare 33" tire would hit the tailgate (based on wheel backspacing) you could use the 'offset bracket' that comes with the kit using the OEM tire carrier and it will space the tire out. Thats what i did and my wheels are the MOAB wheels with 5" backspacing.
The second option if you want to use the OEM tire carrier is to mount a 1.25" wheel space on the OEM tire carrier then mount your 33" tire to that wheel spacer which will also space your tire out away from the tailgate.
The reason i think the Full MORryde reinforcement kit with all the brackets works well with their offset bracket is it keeps the spare tire 33,35,37 as close to the tailgate as it can possibly be. I don't like the Rugged Ridge spare tire carrier because it keeps the tire too far away from the tailgate and you have to extend the rubber snubbers way too far out.
The second option if you want to use the OEM tire carrier is to mount a 1.25" wheel space on the OEM tire carrier then mount your 33" tire to that wheel spacer which will also space your tire out away from the tailgate.
The reason i think the Full MORryde reinforcement kit with all the brackets works well with their offset bracket is it keeps the spare tire 33,35,37 as close to the tailgate as it can possibly be. I don't like the Rugged Ridge spare tire carrier because it keeps the tire too far away from the tailgate and you have to extend the rubber snubbers way too far out.
It looks like your hinge spacing plates are on top of your corner armor.
Doesn't that affect the tailgate's closed position angle?
It does not affect the closed position angle at all. If you take a MORryde hinge and lay it on a flat surface in the closed position there is built in tolerance to account for having corner guards. And considering the hinge mounts on top of the rectangular mount on the tailgate itself it is also effectively keeping a similar spacing away from the tailgate in line with the same distance as the thickness of the corner guards.
If you say so.
I assumed the added thickness of the hinge plate matches up with the added thickness of the tailgate reinforcement.
If you have the added thickness (and strength) of corner armor, then you don't need the plate.
My corner guards are made by Warrior Products. They are not super thick like others. I think they are 1/8" thick. I'm super OCD about things and i looked at the mounting from every angle and thought about the spacing and should i use washers and how the guards were going to affect any potential flat mating surfaces and i'm happy with how things turned out.
The only way for it to be 100% perfect would be to not have corner guards. But a lot of TJ's run corner guards and various thicknesses and then add tailgate reinforcement afterwards so there has to be a certain amount of allowable tolerance to make things fit.
The only way for it to be 100% perfect would be to not have corner guards. But a lot of TJ's run corner guards and various thicknesses and then add tailgate reinforcement afterwards so there has to be a certain amount of allowable tolerance to make things fit.
You are correct. I removed the big hinge plate when I installed the full corner armor. Mine are 3/16" aluminum which is a match in thickness to what was removed.
But you will notice that his are riveted corner covers that are thin sheet metal. That small amount stacked with the big hinge plate shouldn't matter much.
That isn't his problem. He has the same problem everyone else does and that his tire isn't correctly balancing the tip out load on the gate by contacting the snubbers. If you get too much lower snubber, the bottom of the gate twists out, if you don't have enough, you get his issue. That has zero to do with the roll bar brace, it is due to it being a 3 point system and it needs to be a 4 point.
Still won't happen until the snubbers are adjusted correctly. I've installed 20 of these, I am intimately familiar with the nuances thereof.
Well, the good news is you can also apply the same level of fuckery to it as well and wind up with something maladjusted. The gate has to be adjusted high with the tire off. That way the tire's weight brings it to level and contacting the strike properly.
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