More dumb questions

[drdfblackm]

So large amount of stuff done this past weekend, belt, pully and tensioner (cause of all the noise under the hood), oil and filter, new plugs and coil, cleaned seat, new Quadratec LED headlights (originals both were toast...one didn't work the other the seal was broken between glass and housing).

Have tons more soon, 4 hole injectors, B&M shifter and Savvy Transfer case cable....all parts are in the garage ready to install.

So here comes the dumb question. This is a 2003 X model with manual trans....should know that from above but for completenes sake. The HVAC does not switch from vents.....at least it is on vent...can stay warm. I know it is either a vacuum line or the lever for the flap....but I am not sure where to start with looking on the vacuum lines....just looking for some of the usualy supects on the vacuum lines that need replacing....quick glance does not show me any areas that look bad.

Let me know where you have found bad vacuum lines or where to start.

Thank you

 

[Rancho LJ]

Assuming an 03 is similar to an 05, there should be a vacuum line on the engine side of the firewall above the HVAC and AC lines. Check the vacuum lines on the engine side first. One should run to the intake after branching off.

I posted this on another thread but it should apply to you also. You should be able to access the three actuators and track the vacuum lines.

Post in thread 'Replacing HVAC vacuum lines behind the dash' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/replacing-hvac-vacuum-lines-behind-the-dash.86600/post-1834453

 

[drdfblackm]

I guess I really should have said why I was posting it....I always see people posting that their's is stuck in defrost....mine is stuck in vent...blowing directly on you. So that part was making me a bit confused.

Thank you for your input. Hopefully I have a little light to check when I get home. Thankfully this is not my regular vehicle.

 

[Rancho LJ]

If it's not an issue with vacuum or actuators, then it's an internal problem which would require removal and disassembly of the HVAC box.

 

[Chris]

Don't fall for the 4-hole injector scam. Waste of money.

 

[TJ4Jim]

So large amount of stuff done this past weekend, belt, pully and tensioner (cause of all the noise under the hood), oil and filter, new plugs and coil, cleaned seat, new Quadratec LED headlights (originals both were toast...one didn't work the other the seal was broken between glass and housing).

Have tons more soon, 4 hole injectors, B&M shifter and Savvy Transfer case cable....all parts are in the garage ready to install.

So here comes the dumb question. This is a 2003 X model with manual trans....should know that from above but for completenes sake. The HVAC does not switch from vents.....at least it is on vent...can stay warm. I know it is either a vacuum line or the lever for the flap....but I am not sure where to start with looking on the vacuum lines....just looking for some of the usualy supects on the vacuum lines that need replacing....quick glance does not show me any areas that look bad.

Let me know where you have found bad vacuum lines or where to start.

Thank you

Grab the Service manual for your year in the Resource section, there are useful vacuum diagrams. Also follow the vacuum T connection located where the heater hose lines penetrate the firewall and follow the branch that goes under the battery tray and make sure it's connected to the black plastic reserve cannister.

 

[YonderNorthwest]

Don't fall for the 4-hole injector scam. Waste of money.

Twice the number of holes.... double the fuel.... 100% more horsepower!?

 

[macleanflood]

Most of the time replacing the o-rings when replacing injectors is mostly responsible for any improvements.

I'd suggest a DEL fuel rail/injector heat shield kit. Also comes with o-rings!

-Mac

 

[bucky]

My 4 hole injectors were the same price as the stock ones. I agree the only improvement I saw was because the old ones were toast. No mpg boost but the engine ran smother.

 

[drdfblackm]

That's why I bought the 4 hole....they were just as cheap, and I pulled one to check because the previous owner did not appear to be a good owner....and yes....was not a good looking injector at all. So just as you said....the 4 hole was the same price if not cheaper. It is my understanding that atomization of fuel is better with a better spray pattern and it appears from the videos I have watched that the 1 hole does not have as fine of a spray pattern and the 4 hole. Thus more efficient. Made sense to me as far as just a better spray pattern. I am not expecting much other than a smoother running vehicle since the injectors are not good.

So last night I checked the vacuum line connection to the intake, it is good, I checked the line and where it enters the cab...all looked...looked good. I have not pulled the battery and tray yet. However I did get in and started it and made it as quiet as I can.....this TJ has an exhaust leak...imagine that....I cannot tell where it is but if I am guessing right it's where the u clamps are after the primary cats....I have no idea what the PO did. That investigation will come later....as it is not that terrible.

ADD....back to the point. I could hear something moving/trying to move when I would actuate the knob on the HVAC panel. I could not investigate more as it was dark. I am thinking maybe the lever or plastic gear is bad?? I am not sure, but I am starting to think it is not a vacuum issue. I will still pull the battery and check under the tray....I have a bunch of wiring to clean up anyway.....so much hackery.

On my last JK I found a guy that made less expensive relay pannels for wiring in accessories but I cannot find him. I don't want to spend dumb money on Spods or something like that.....anyone have a good source for relay pannel kits for accessorys.....I'm not a fan of zip tying relays to existing wiring as was done to this jeep.

Thank you again for the input.