Yeah that motor is too far gone to revive. If you do not want to spend the $$ on the Warn motor, there are a lot of DB motors out there and I have not seen many complaints.
Just picked up a used Warn 9000 winch
- Thread starter Devinr29
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Yeah that motor is too far gone to revive. If you do not want to spend the $$ on the Warn motor, there are a lot of DB motors out there and I have not seen many complaints.
Make sure the rest of the parts can be restored before buying a motor. Looks a little rough.
Not hard to get more invested than it is worth. Just be cautious, parts are not cheap.
Not hard to get more invested than it is worth. Just be cautious, parts are not cheap.
@tnjeepguy That is some great advice, once I get the gearbox sorted I will feel better about ordering anything for this.
I started to clean up the gearbox, I got all of the spur gear sets spinning freely, the last big one is currently soaking in degreaser. Despite lots of corrosion and resistance, things are starting to spin freely. Except the last big problem I need to solve is the free spool function.
The ring gear is totally stuck in the housing. I was able to get fluid in behind it through the free spool lever seat, but other that hitting the back of the housing, and adding heat I don't have many other ideas. I am hesitant, but I suppose I could drill into the face of the gear, tap a couple M4 ish sized holes, thread in bolts and use that to pry off of. If you guys have any suggestions on that let me know.
So my project this weekend is trying to get that freed up, which will determine the fate of this project.
@Blackjack Thanks for the word of confidence in the DB motor, If I get this gearbox working that will be the motor I move forward with.
No to both. Soak in rust remove or ?? Tight fit, so be careful.
Did you get the brake out of the drum ?
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Yeah brute force is not good. Remove the clutch lever and soak it.
Ok I have good news, this is officially a rebuild thread?
I was able to get the ring gear out of the housing without applying any heat or force. I soaked it in denatured alcohol ( that's all I had on hand), held the assembly upside down and tapped the sides of the housing until I saw some brown sludge flow between the parts. From here I was able to smack the housing onto a couple of shim to get the gear to drop out.
I followed along with LR live on youtube (3 part series) :
This is a really great series of videos with lots of tips and tricks on things that are commonly seized.
After getting the ring gear out, I saw some pretty nasty corrosion where the bottom was sitting in water. There was also significant scoring on the side of the aluminum housing.
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There was significant corrosion in the lever groove, deep pitting on the shoulder where the lever engages, and overall lots of surface defects.
This gear also had a lot of deformation from where somebody tried to crank on the lever with a pair of pliers or something.
The housing had a couple deep scratches, and corrosion at the bottom.
At this point I realized this sliding interface was going to need some serious work. I was able to get access to a lathe after hours to resurface my ring gear.
Let it soak in evapo-rust overnight.
Got it trued up in the 4 Jaw:
Brought in the diameter of each cylindrical surface as little as possible, the outer grease passage got about a 10 thou diameter cut, which addressed all of the highspots, and created a much smoother surface.
For the lever groove, I brought in the diameter about 12 thou, and did a 2 thou face op to each shoulder to ensure the lever doesn't get caught up in the future.
Then I went in with a file, brought down any nicks, and broke all the edges.
Finished it up with a red scotchbrite pad.
There is still a lot of deep pitting on the part, but none of it is rasied, the part is now a cylinder and there are no protrusions in the cutout for the lever.
The proper grease will make up all of the difference In this pitting, and the small amount I reduced the diameter.
For the housing I just honed the walls with a maroon scotchbrite pad, making sure to move the pad radially ( as opposed to in-out).
The left pic shows the original top of each part ( minimal initial corrosion), and the right shows where all the water pooled.
I also was able to remove the brake, I haven't really messed with it yet but it actually came out no problem.
next steps is:
- address if I want to refinish the exterior of all the components. Do you guys think paint matching it to the jeep would be tacky?
- Clean up and paint the drum.
- order a new motor
- make or order new gaskets/ seals.
Cheers,
I was able to get the ring gear out of the housing without applying any heat or force. I soaked it in denatured alcohol ( that's all I had on hand), held the assembly upside down and tapped the sides of the housing until I saw some brown sludge flow between the parts. From here I was able to smack the housing onto a couple of shim to get the gear to drop out.
I followed along with LR live on youtube (3 part series) :
This is a really great series of videos with lots of tips and tricks on things that are commonly seized.
After getting the ring gear out, I saw some pretty nasty corrosion where the bottom was sitting in water. There was also significant scoring on the side of the aluminum housing.
There was significant corrosion in the lever groove, deep pitting on the shoulder where the lever engages, and overall lots of surface defects.
This gear also had a lot of deformation from where somebody tried to crank on the lever with a pair of pliers or something.
The housing had a couple deep scratches, and corrosion at the bottom.
At this point I realized this sliding interface was going to need some serious work. I was able to get access to a lathe after hours to resurface my ring gear.
Let it soak in evapo-rust overnight.
Got it trued up in the 4 Jaw:
Brought in the diameter of each cylindrical surface as little as possible, the outer grease passage got about a 10 thou diameter cut, which addressed all of the highspots, and created a much smoother surface.
For the lever groove, I brought in the diameter about 12 thou, and did a 2 thou face op to each shoulder to ensure the lever doesn't get caught up in the future.
Then I went in with a file, brought down any nicks, and broke all the edges.
Finished it up with a red scotchbrite pad.
There is still a lot of deep pitting on the part, but none of it is rasied, the part is now a cylinder and there are no protrusions in the cutout for the lever.
The proper grease will make up all of the difference In this pitting, and the small amount I reduced the diameter.
For the housing I just honed the walls with a maroon scotchbrite pad, making sure to move the pad radially ( as opposed to in-out).
The left pic shows the original top of each part ( minimal initial corrosion), and the right shows where all the water pooled.
I also was able to remove the brake, I haven't really messed with it yet but it actually came out no problem.
next steps is:
- address if I want to refinish the exterior of all the components. Do you guys think paint matching it to the jeep would be tacky?
- Clean up and paint the drum.
- order a new motor
- make or order new gaskets/ seals.
Cheers,
Not a ton of progress over the weekend. I got the drum cleaned up with a wire wheel and painted black.
I also rebuilt the brake assembly and got that back into the drum.
I ordered a sheet of the same spec gasket material that the warn replacement gearbox gaskets are made of. I was able to get a couple minutes on the laser cutter and made 4 seals, saved me 20 bucks.
I brought a piece of the frame to lowes and tried to find a nice paint match grey, did not buy anything yet but it looks like the rustoleum charcoal will be pretty close, if you guys have any recommendations for paints, or primers let me know. going to blast the frame.
I also rebuilt the brake assembly and got that back into the drum.
I ordered a sheet of the same spec gasket material that the warn replacement gearbox gaskets are made of. I was able to get a couple minutes on the laser cutter and made 4 seals, saved me 20 bucks.
I brought a piece of the frame to lowes and tried to find a nice paint match grey, did not buy anything yet but it looks like the rustoleum charcoal will be pretty close, if you guys have any recommendations for paints, or primers let me know. going to blast the frame.
Here is the DXF file I made for the GB gasket if anyone else wants it.
I painted my 8274 Blue in tribute to a buddy who was killed in Iraq.
He'd made me a Windshield banner in Blue years ago.
So I'd say paint it in any color you want.
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I was able to get into the blasting booth briefly last night, got all my parts cleaned up and ready for paint, its going to rain all week so the project is going to be on hold for a little while.
My DB electric motor came on last night, the box was pretty damaged so i'm hoping to get that tested soon. hopefully everything is ok. if not I got it from amazon so an exchange is easy.
Also many thanks for the recommendations on winch mounting plates. My Fishbone Offroad raised winch plate showed up last night.
Thanks everyone,
My DB electric motor came on last night, the box was pretty damaged so i'm hoping to get that tested soon. hopefully everything is ok. if not I got it from amazon so an exchange is easy.
Also many thanks for the recommendations on winch mounting plates. My Fishbone Offroad raised winch plate showed up last night.
Thanks everyone,
Pretty much - "the last guy" had flat blacked the motor, and as the powder coating on the aluminum had done what powder coating on aluminum usually does, I scraped it off, and just painted the whole thing flat black. I keep it under a cover to keep it out of the Florida weather. The cover is as ugly as home made sin as the saying goes, but it beats having the sun beating on my rope as well as keeping the paint from deterioration.
Primer, paint, clear coat.
The
gearbox reassembled.
Tested the DB electric motor, painted that to match.
This is the color I used
The
gearbox reassembled.
Tested the DB electric motor, painted that to match.
This is the color I used
You’ve done a lot of good work to rebuild this winch. I’d be pretty proud of it. I’d 2k clear it to protect the color. Your choice as far as Glossy or Matte which are the only two finishes most parts stores carry. Amazon may offer a Satin.
When you get it all back together you’ll want to seal it with RTV where the motor mates to the arm and where the cap mates to the motor. Use some painters tape to mark off where you want the RTV so you have clean lines and no messy goopy lines.
You’ve just about saved this one.
If you haven’t already, call Warn, tell them what you’re doing and they should send you a set of brand new decals. If you can, clear over the decals to protect them.
Use paintable RTV and then hit it with a brief coat of paint and the RTV disappears. I also suggest @Blackjack 's vent kit.
@JMT Thank you!!!
This has been a very fun project. I have used a clear coat already, but its not a 2K clear coat, i'll need to do some more research on that. Thanks for the advice on the RTV, and the decals will be a great finishing touch.
now I just need to restore the hook, and get a new line.
@Zorba @Blackjack What is a vent kit and what does it do?
If you seal the winch with RTV so no water can get in you need a vent so the thing can breathe. @Blackjack sells one. It has a fitting that goes on the bottom of the winch motor case, a tube that routes to the engine bay and has a small lawnmower breather or you can drill a hole in your air box and put a barb in it.
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