Just Picked This Up

[MaineiacNC]

Just picked up this pieced together ‘05 TJ X yesterday. How do I figure out what all the random parts are? Definitely dealing with a sloppy steering, wander the road, and apparently death wobble issue. It’s on 35x12.5x15. And then I’ve got to deal with the oil seeping from the engine. Looks like valve cove and rear main seal.

-4.0L
-NSG370 6 speed
-Dana 30 non-cad High Pinion front axle with Spartan limited slip differential
-Dana 44 rear out of a right hand drive stock limited slip
-4.56 gears front and rear
-unknown short arm lift of ~3-4”
-35x12.5x15
-rear disc brake conversion
-bolt in roll cage
-fuel tank out of an ‘03 TJ (doesn’t vent correctly)
-who knows what else is pieced together
Thoughts?

 

[InOmaha]

I thought you had some serious rust on the hood until I realized it was a sticker of mountains.

The front roll bar addition looks like something from Rock Hard 4x4. The side rails White Knuckle Offroad if they are connected to the frame.

 

[MaineiacNC]

I thought you had some serious rust on the hood until I realized it was a sticker of mountains.

The front roll bar addition looks like something from Rock Hard 4x4. The side rails White Knuckle Offroad if they are connected to the frame.

Thanks. It seems to be pretty straight and rust free. I haven’t crawled around under it much yet. Needs some exhaust work at some point.

 

[NDSpeed]

some sweet looking trucks you’ve got there too!

 

[BlueC]

Thoughts?

It’s on 35x12.5x15

33s would work better with your current setup, but it looks like you have good tread on your current tires, so which ever way you want to go there.

Definitely dealing with a sloppy steering, wander the road, and apparently death wobble issue.

With those 35s I'd suggest getting a beefier steering link. This is the forum's generally accepted one. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701

Do you know if you have a stock pitman arm? What control arms and trac bars are under there?

Since you have those old Fords, a few of us talk old rides here; https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/car-pics-too-cool-not-to-share.59109/page-1476#post-1729033

 

[NDSpeed]

what’s the intended purpose, is this going to be a beach rig for surf fishing, or are you interested more in URE and trips out west?

 

[MaineiacNC]

some sweet looking trucks you’ve got there too!

Not mine. Place I got the Jeep from

 

[MaineiacNC]

33s would work better with your current setup, but it looks like you have good tread on your current tires, so which ever way you want to go there.



With those 35s I'd suggest getting a beefier steering link. This is the forum's generally accepted one. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701

Do you know if you have a stock pitman arm? What control arms and trac bars are under there?

Since you have those old Fords, a few of us talk old rides here; https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/car-pics-too-cool-not-to-share.59109/page-1476#post-1729033

I’m not sure about the control arms, pitman arm, nor trac bar. Trac bar definitely needs new bushings (probably everything does). Definitely seems to need new shocks, but I need to figure out how much lift I have first.

Trucks belong to the place I got the Jeep from.

 

[MaineiacNC]

what’s the intended purpose, is this going to be a beach rig for surf fishing, or are you interested more in URE and trips out west?

URE, trips out west, trips to Maine. Would love to do the TransAmerica Trail one day. It needs to be both trail and road worthy. I’d rather be in the dirt than on the pavement, but here in Eastern NC that’s hard to accomplish

 

[BlueC]

It needs to be both trail and road worthy.

That means different things to different people. I think the first thing you need to decide is if you are going to stick with those 35s or drop to a 32 or 33. Also, do you have an automatic or stick?

 

[RockyTopTJ]

Just picked up this pieced together ‘05 TJ X yesterday. How do I figure out what all the random parts are? Definitely dealing with a sloppy steering, wander the road, and apparently death wobble issue. It’s on 35x12.5x15. And then I’ve got to deal with the oil seeping from the engine. Looks like valve cove and rear main seal.

-4.0L
-NSG370 6 speed
-Dana 30 non-cad High Pinion front axle with Spartan limited slip differential
-Dana 44 rear out of a right hand drive stock limited slip
-4.56 gears front and rear
-unknown short arm lift of ~3-4”
-35x12.5x15
-rear disc brake conversion
-bolt in roll cage
-fuel tank out of an ‘03 TJ (doesn’t vent correctly)
-who knows what else is pieced together
Thoughts?

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Stock steering honestly scares me on these TJs even if someone keeps everything else stock. The tubes are just really small for my liking. I'd recommend if you're going to spend any money at least start with CurrectLync steering for it. Make sure everything is tight when you check underneath it and if you do upgrade it.

Also go get tires balanced and a proper alignment, that should help with the wandering so long as nothing is loose under there.

Death wobble will be unmistakable if you do have it. A shimmy is not death wobble; a vibration is not death wobble. Going cross-eyed from uncontrollable oscillations is death wobble. First thing is to do a dry steer test. Look for loose rod ends in the steering and especially the panhard bar joints. Control arms can cause it too but are less common, but check them too. On a rare case if your TJ was "upgraded" with the Durango steering gearbox, the lower bushing supporting the sector shaft can be bad and cause the shaft to wobble, causing death wobble.

 

[MaineiacNC]

That means different things to different people. I think the first thing you need to decide is if you are going to stick with those 35s or drop to a 32 or 33. Also, do you have an automatic or stick?

I’ll stick with 35s. It’s a 6 speed manual. It handles the 35s quite well imo as far as power and gearing. Handling is an issue.

 

[Zorba]

LOVE THAT TRAILER!!

 

[Rickyd]

Looks like a drop bracket for the axle side front track bar. Unless the frame side is also dropped you want to put it back stock to avoid bumpsteer.

Measure the coils with weight on them. Anything past 12" front,8" rear is lift.

Do the dry steering test,fix loose parts and give it a lot of caster to help the wandering

Better pics of the pitman arm,track bar mounts front and rear,and the suspension links will help.

 

[MaineiacNC]

Looks like a drop bracket for the axle side front track bar. Unless the frame side is also dropped you want to put it back stock to avoid bumpsteer.

Measure the coils with weight on them. Anything past 12" front,8" rear is lift.

Do the dry steering test,fix loose parts and give it a lot of caster to help the wandering

Better pics of the pitman arm,track bar mounts front and rear,and the suspension links will help.

Thank you. I’ll try to get under there and get some better photos once it stops raining so might be a week . I’ve got to research this dry steering test thing.

 

[Tronner]

I like your UN, By chance are you from Maine?

Pic of my Parents JL, that they name Maineiac. Both Born and raised in Aroostook County.

PS: Nice TJ, Looks like a great starting point for a build whatever you want kind of build!

 

[MaineiacNC]

I like your UN, By chance are you from Maine?

Pic of my Parents JL, that they name Maineiac. Both Born and raised in Aroostook County.

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PS: Nice TJ, Looks like a great starting point for a build whatever you want kind of build!

Born and raised in Farmington until the Marine Corps transplanted me at 20

 

[MaineiacNC]

Looks like a drop bracket for the axle side front track bar. Unless the frame side is also dropped you want to put it back stock to avoid bumpsteer.

Measure the coils with weight on them. Anything past 12" front,8" rear is lift.

Do the dry steering test,fix loose parts and give it a lot of caster to help the wandering

Better pics of the pitman arm,track bar mounts front and rear,and the suspension links will help.

Here are some pics of the front. The tracbar definitely has some play at the axle. I have no idea how to tell if it’s a stock or drop mount.

I measured the springs and came up with 4” lift. Which was pretty much what I expected.

Are the control arms supposed to look crooked in the frame mounts? I need to tighten the locknut on the driver’s side.

The passenger rear shock is definitely missing it’s upper bushing.

Still haven’t found a helper for the dry steering test. Soon I hope.

I definitely appreciate any good advice you may have since I’m new to figuring out suspension issues and don’t want to spend my currently limited funds on the wrong things, or in the wrong order .

Hopefully I’ll make it to the auto hobby shop on base and get it up on a lift soon.

 

[RockyTopTJ]

Here are some pics of the front. The tracbar definitely has some play at the axle. I have no idea how to tell if it’s a stock or drop mount.

I measured the springs and came up with 4” lift. Which was pretty much what I expected.

Are the control arms supposed to look crooked in the frame mounts? I need to tighten the locknut on the driver’s side.

The passenger rear shock is definitely missing it’s upper bushing.

Still haven’t found a helper for the dry steering test. Soon I hope.

I definitely appreciate any good advice you may have since I’m new to figuring out suspension issues and don’t want to spend my currently limited funds on the wrong things, or in the wrong order .

Hopefully I’ll make it to the auto hobby shop on base and get it up on a lift soon.

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Pitman arm and frame side track bar mount are stock. The axle side track bar mount being loose is 100% your wandering and death wobble issue. It is also dropped below stock. That upper bolt is where it normally goes and where you need to move it to.

Edit: I would still highly, highly recommend the CurrectLync steering as your first purchase

 

[Rickyd]

Here are some pics of the front. The tracbar definitely has some play at the axle. I have no idea how to tell if it’s a stock or drop mount.

I measured the springs and came up with 4” lift. Which was pretty much what I expected.

Are the control arms supposed to look crooked in the frame mounts? I need to tighten the locknut on the driver’s side.

The passenger rear shock is definitely missing it’s upper bushing.

Still haven’t found a helper for the dry steering test. Soon I hope.

I definitely appreciate any good advice you may have since I’m new to figuring out suspension issues and don’t want to spend my currently limited funds on the wrong things, or in the wrong order .

Hopefully I’ll make it to the auto hobby shop on base and get it up on a lift soon.

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Ok. You have factory mounting points for steering and the frame side track bar. The axle side needs to go in the oem hole to restore proper geometry. That track bar may be too long for that.

Looks like the same rough country arms I have. I have a discussion here- https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-jock-joints-in-rough-country-x-flex-control-arms.52531/
about dealing with the crappy joints.

The zj tie rod would be a decent upgrade if you aren't hard on the jeep.

Thread 'ZJ Tie Rod Conversion'

Oct 11, 2016

The ZJ tie rod upgrade is a simple, cheap, and effective upgrade for your Jeep Wrangler TJ. Found on the V8 model Grand Cherokee ZJ, this tie rod is substantially larger than the stock TJ tie rod. The threaded section of the factory tie rod end measures .65" in diameter. The ZJ end measures 1".

Below you'll find some photos comparing the ZJ tie rod (and tie rod end) to the stock TJ tie rod (and tie rod end). You can see that the ZJ tie rod and tie rod ends are much, much larger than the TJ tie rod setup. This ultimately means you'll have a much stronger steering setup (which isn't a bad...

• Chris
• Replies: 710
• Forum: TJ How-to Guides

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