It just happened!
- Thread starter Irun
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I got a horrible case of death wobble this past weekend. It took me less than a minute to find the culprit, which was the castle nut loosened on the tie rod. The loose nut, and wobble, ended up hollowing out the tapered hole in the knuckle. I'm now having to replace the passenger side knuckle for the second time in less than a year. It also took out the new rubber grease boot I had just put on the Rock Jock steering.
I'm positive I torqued the castle nut to 55 ft lbs and didn't have more than 3,000 miles since doing the last knuckle and grease boot swap. I'm hoping that the issue was the last replacement was a used knuckle I had around, which I didn't closely inspect. A new knuckle will be here today, so wish me luck!
Out of curiosity, assuming the cotter pin fits into the castle nut, is there a reason not to use a flat washer underneath the castle nut? This is still the old knuckle and I have one there now, pending the new knuckle arrival.
I'm positive I torqued the castle nut to 55 ft lbs and didn't have more than 3,000 miles since doing the last knuckle and grease boot swap. I'm hoping that the issue was the last replacement was a used knuckle I had around, which I didn't closely inspect. A new knuckle will be here today, so wish me luck!
Out of curiosity, assuming the cotter pin fits into the castle nut, is there a reason not to use a flat washer underneath the castle nut? This is still the old knuckle and I have one there now, pending the new knuckle arrival.
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I believe the OEM nut did not use a washer. But many of us have needed a washer to lift the castle nut to engage the cotter pin. Apparently a lot of aftermarket TREs have the taper in the wrong place. People have had the problem with various brands of TREs, both TJ and ZJ, and with OEM and brand new knuckles.
I would say, if you don't need one, don't. If you do need one, do.
I got a horrible case of death wobble this past weekend. It took me less than a minute to find the culprit, which was the castle nut loosened on the tie rod. The loose nut, and wobble, ended up hollowing out the tapered hole in the knuckle. I'm now having to replace the passenger side knuckle for the second time in less than a year. It also took out the new rubber grease boot I had just put on the Rock Jock steering.
I'm positive I torqued the castle nut to 55 ft lbs and didn't have more than 3,000 miles since doing the last knuckle and grease boot swap. I'm hoping that the issue was the last replacement was a used knuckle I had around, which I didn't closely inspect. A new knuckle will be here today, so wish me luck!
Out of curiosity, assuming the cotter pin fits into the castle nut, is there a reason not to use a flat washer underneath the castle nut? This is still the old knuckle and I have one there now, pending the new knuckle arrival.
View attachment 649148
Get grade 5 washers and you'll be fine.
I don’t see why not since friction is what holds the joint properly. If you have to go past the hole where the cotter pin goes and will not engage the castle nut then you need a washer.
Did you use the washer the first time it loosened up? Did the taper of the TRE bottom out on the ID of the washer and not fully seat in the knuckle?
I didn't use a washer the first time. It's resolved now and everything is back to where it should be.
Now, there's another issue. The timing cover seal has a substantial leak that's rustproofing the underside of the Jeep. Against my own practices, I didn't replace it when I did the RMS and oil pan gasket last year (FWIW, there was no leak then). Now I'm paying for my mistake. These are next to go in!
MountaineerTom
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Now, there's another issue. The timing cover seal has a substantial leak that's rustproofing the underside of the Jeep. Against my own practices, I didn't replace it when I did the RMS and oil pan gasket last year (FWIW, there was no leak then). Now I'm paying for my mistake. These are next to go in!
View attachment 650578
Don’t run the bolts for the harmonic balancer in too far/tight. They will hit the timing chain cover. I was being cautious and still hit mine.
Afterwards, I ran the bolts in on the old balancer until they were flush, sprayed them red, then checked them on the new one to make sure they were still flush. So now I know not to run them in into the red.
Every time I look at Rich’s photos I forget we’re on a forum about 20-yr old vehicles.
I'm really in a slump with this Jeep. It's needy and testing me every step of the journey.
1. Timing cover seal was leaking, so I pulled it.
2. In the process, the oil pan gasket ripped, so I had to remove the oil pan.
3. With the oil pan out, I relaced the leaking, previously replaced, RMS.
4. Put it all back together and the timing cover leaked at the parting line between it and the oil pan gasket.
5. Fixed that, then the RMS started leaking worse than before.
On the plus side, the timing cover seal and gasket doesn't leak, for now. Also, in the process of installing the full doors, I tore a tendon in my right bicep. Getting old absolutely sucks!
1. Timing cover seal was leaking, so I pulled it.
2. In the process, the oil pan gasket ripped, so I had to remove the oil pan.
3. With the oil pan out, I relaced the leaking, previously replaced, RMS.
4. Put it all back together and the timing cover leaked at the parting line between it and the oil pan gasket.
5. Fixed that, then the RMS started leaking worse than before.
On the plus side, the timing cover seal and gasket doesn't leak, for now. Also, in the process of installing the full doors, I tore a tendon in my right bicep. Getting old absolutely sucks!
Sorry you’re having trouble with it. As someone who sold their out frustration, I know how you feel.
I am willing to come for an LJ work day!
We are going to Potts mountain on Black Friday of you want to come!
I am willing to come for an LJ work day!
We are going to Potts mountain on Black Friday of you want to come!
Sorry to hear the struggles! Keep at it as you can - focus on recovery.
I can imagine that happening with the full doors - they're heavy and I'm likely needing to adjust my mounting approach as I'm getting older vice when I first got the Jeep - they weight a ton and aren't easy to manipulate...
I can imagine that happening with the full doors - they're heavy and I'm likely needing to adjust my mounting approach as I'm getting older vice when I first got the Jeep - they weight a ton and aren't easy to manipulate...
Getting old really does suck. While I can still go out and run with no issues, strength-wise, I find myself not able to do things I could before. Now I have to be careful when lifting anything!
Getting old really does suck. While I can still go out and run with no issues, strength-wise, I find myself not able to do things I could before. Now I have to be careful when lifting anything!
Ain't that the truth!!!!!
I've ordered the parts to do the RMS again, once my arm heals. What's the consensus here on the following three things with regards to replacing it:
1. Offsetting the parting lines on the seal, approximately 1/4"
2. Ultra Black RTV in lieu of Anaerobic gasket maker
3. Mopar vs Fel-Pro seal
I've tried different combinations over the years and the one I've not had good luck with is use of Anaerobic gasket maker. Curious what others with the 4.0 have done?
1. Offsetting the parting lines on the seal, approximately 1/4"
2. Ultra Black RTV in lieu of Anaerobic gasket maker
3. Mopar vs Fel-Pro seal
I've tried different combinations over the years and the one I've not had good luck with is use of Anaerobic gasket maker. Curious what others with the 4.0 have done?
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I installed a new stroker motor. Totally eliminated my RMS leak issue
I have used aviation form-a-gasket 3 or 4 different times now with zero leaks or issues. You are welcome to give it a shot if you want.
Or if you want to borrow my engine hoist I could bring that over too
FWIW, I called Golen today to ask about what should be done before installing one of their engines that's been sitting in a crate for more than 5 years. I got their voice mail and left a message.I installed a new stroker motor. Totally eliminated my RMS leak issue
I have used aviation form-a-gasket 3 or 4 different times now with zero leaks or issues. You are welcome to give it a shot if you want.
Or if you want to borrow my engine hoist I could bring that over too
View attachment 652273
I'll take you up on the Aviation sealant!
I must have gotten lucky but I used a mopar seal, anaerobic sealant and new oil pan gasket. It’s been leaking free for over a year now.
I just realized I never got back to you on the cabin filter question you asked me.
Post in thread 'How to install a cabin filter' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-a-cabin-filter.65474/post-1234076
Post in thread 'How to install a cabin filter' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-a-cabin-filter.65474/post-1234076
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