It just happened!

[Irun]

Okay folks a small problem here. As seems to be my luck, a simple job is no longer simple. I was in the process of installing the brush guard on the savvy front bumper, which meant I needed to remove the soft shackle recovery points @sunnysideup_lj made. Of course, when removing the 4 bolts, one of the welded nuts broke on the driver side rear. Now it spins and can't be removed. Since the bumper is on, I can't get to the front of the frame to put a wrench on the nut. The bumper can't be removed, because the bolt prevents that.

FWIW, it did loosen just enough for me to get a small reciprocating saw blade in there. This would allow me to cut the bolt and remove the bumper, then tack weld a new nut to the frame. However, if this path is taken it will destroy the nice aluminum recovery point, and I'd have to order another set. It looks like a couple other options are possible, but they are less desirable. Anyone have a suggestion how to solve this problem?

Two less desirable approaches would be to: 1. remove the guard and use a hole saw to make a hole in the bumper. 2. make a small hole in the bottom of the frame, between the bumper and steering box bracket.

Neither of these are truly a viable option.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Jam a wedge under the recovery point for the purpose of binding the bolt - meaning keeping it from spinning. Then you should be able to drill out the bolt from the top. Work up to a bit the same diameter as the threaded portion of the bolt and the head will pop off. Do it carefully and you will not damage the recovery point.

 

[Irun]

Jam a wedge under the recovery point for the purpose of binding the bolt - meaning keeping it from spinning. Then you should be able to drill out the bolt from the top. Work up to a bit the same diameter as the threaded portion of the bolt and the head will pop off. Do it carefully and you will not damage the recovery point.

That was the first thing I tried. I used a small amount of blue thread locker, which I'm guessing is preventing this method from working.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

That was the first thing I tried. I used a small amount of blue thread locker, which I'm guessing is preventing this method from working.

I don't understand, Rich. Why would thread locker keep this from working? What did you try?

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Okay folks a small problem here. As seems to be my luck, a simple job is no longer simple. I was in the process of installing the brush guard on the savvy front bumper, which meant I needed to remove the soft shackle recovery points @sunnysideup_lj made. Of course, when removing the 4 bolts, one of the welded nuts broke on the driver side rear. Now it spins and can't be removed. Since the bumper is on, I can't get to the front of the frame to put a wrench on the nut. The bumper can't be removed, because the bolt prevents that.

FWIW, it did loosen just enough for me to get a small reciprocating saw blade in there. This would allow me to cut the bolt and remove the bumper, then tack weld a new nut to the frame. However, if this path is taken it will destroy the nice aluminum recovery point, and I'd have to order another set. It looks like a couple other options are possible, but they are less desirable. Anyone have a suggestion how to solve this problem?

Two less desirable approaches would be to: 1. remove the guard and use a hole saw to make a hole in the bumper. 2. make a small hole in the bottom of the frame, between the bumper and steering box bracket.

Neither of these are truly a viable option.

View attachment 647170

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View attachment 647173

It looks like you have the recovery point wedged. As stated above, drop a drill bit from the top and cut the head of the offending bolt off. It should then drop into the frame and can be fished out later.

 

[Irun]

I don't understand, Rich. Why would thread locker keep this from working? What did you try?

I drove a prybar underneath the recovery point as a wedge and tried to loosen the bolt. I even pried up to see if more force would bind the nut. No luck yet, but I'm stepping up to a larger prybar. If that doesn't work, I may need try what @S/C-HD2002 mentioned.

​

 

[NashvilleTJ]

I drove a prybar underneath the recovery point as a wedge and tried to loosen the bolt. I even pried up to see if more force would bind the nut. No luck yet, but I'm stepping up to a larger prybar. If that doesn't work, I may need try what @S/C-HD2002 mentioned.

​

Read my post again, Rich. The purpose of wedging the bolt is to hold it still so you can drill it out - that's what I was suggesting. If you don't wedge the bolt somehow it will just spin when you try to drill it.

 

[Irun]

Read my post again, Rich. The purpose of wedging the bolt is to hold it still so you can drill it out - that's what I was suggesting. If you don't wedge the bolt somehow it will just spin when you try to drill it.

Missed the drill part!

Ended up drilling and cutting it and was able to save the recovery point. The only sacrifice was the small back bolt. I can get the bumper off now. The other sucky part is the bolt won't drop down due the the cross frame brace. I'll use a pair of locking pliers to hold it in place, tack weld it, then unscrew the remaining part with the locking pliers. Good grief!

 

[Irun]

Thanks for the help folks!

 

[Irun]

The nut inside the frame ended up being a blind weld, meaning I couldn't see what I was welding. This is probably the worst bead of metal I've ever laid, but it works and everything is sorted out on the front bumper. Since the bumper had to be removed, I also took the opportunity to swap the current Warn XD 9000 for a Warn XP 9.5 that was on the TJ. The stronger motor and faster line speed was a main reason for the swap.

 

[Irun]

This is on my list of "wants", which was to swap the fog lights to a yellow LED.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5474TZ8?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Irun]

Creeping forward with the armor. This is a mockup that's the last step before deciding to install the Genright front fenders that are waiting patiently in a box for the installation.

 

[JMT]

Creeping forward with the armor. This is a mockup that's the last step before deciding to install the Genright front fenders that are waiting patiently in a box for the installation.

View attachment 648359

View attachment 648360

Who made that armor?

 

[Wildman]

Who made that armor?

Maybe??

https://genright.com/shop-by-vehicle/jeep-tj-97-06/tj-lj-tall-tub-panel-guards-aluminum/

 

[Apparition]

Who made that armor?

Judging by the markings, Irun.

 

[JMT]

Judging by the markings, Irun.

Yeah, they’re not pre-drilled, so I was wondering if he fabbed them. GR are pre-drilled.

 

[Irun]

Yeah, they’re not pre-drilled, so I was wondering if he fabbed them. GR are pre-drilled.

These are fabbed.

 

[JMT]

These are fabbed.

They look great Rich! Nice job!!!

I want to make some now, but the cut out around Jeep looks difficult.

 

[Apparition]

They look great Rich! Nice job!!!

I want to make some now, but the cut out around Jeep looks difficult.

You can eliminate the need for that with a hammer

 

[S/C-HD2002]

Smash it and get a decal.

Less chance of shit getting in between the tub and armor in that location too.