Is my steering box shot?

[hear]

Got some sloppy steering in my daughter's 97. I expected it to need new tie rods and all that, but it seems like the immediate need may be further upstream. The wheel has about 20-25* of play before the pitman arm starts to move. Looking through the wheel well, I can see that the steering shaft doesn't appear to have any play relative to when the steering wheel is moved; the shaft starts moving immediately with the wheel. My understanding is that this probably means the steering box is shot?

 

[Geepum]

I agree. There is an adjustment but you can only adjust it a tiny bit before it’ll cause very accelerated wear. Rebuilding them is not hard. Hose jockey has a great video on it.

 

[jjvw]

I agree. There is an adjustment but you can only adjust it a tiny bit before it’ll cause very accelerated wear. Rebuilding them is not hard. Hose jockey has a great video on it.

The part that can be rebuilt isn't the part that will tighten up the slop.

 

[macleanflood]

When I frame and tub swapped my 97 I had a lot of slop until I figured out I didn't have the bolts tight on the intermediate shaft...ones joining the shafts together.

-Mac

 

[Geepum]

The part that can be rebuilt isn't the part that will tighten up the slop.

Your saying the gear wear is where the slop is and not the worn bushings? Just curious what you’ve seen.

 

[Geepum]

When I frame and tub swapped my 97 I had a lot of slop until I figured out I didn't have the bolts tight on the intermediate shaft...ones joining the shafts together.

-Mac

He said he didn’t have any play upstream of the box, so that’s why I went after the box. Hear is pretty on it, so I just assumed he would have covered that. I’m guilty of having done that too.

 

[jjvw]

Your saying the gear wear is where the slop is and not the worn bushings? Just curious what you’ve seen.

Correct. It is the machined parts of the steering gear that are worn. The piston, bore and gear. And they are not worn evenly. Everything wears most where the wheels are pointed straight. This is why tightening the backlash isn't really a fix because doing so creates new bind the further the out the steering is turned where the wear is less.

 

[Geepum]

Correct. It is the machined parts of the steering gear that are worn. The piston, bore and gear. And they are not worn evenly. Everything wears most where the wheels are pointed straight. This is why tightening the backlash isn't really a fix because doing so creates new bind the further the out the steering is turned where the wear is less.

Gotcha. I knew about the chain reaction touching the adjuster opens up, but wasn’t aware the hard parts wore so bad. Thanks jj. Love your build. Copy catting some of your stuff.

 

[hear]

When I frame and tub swapped my 97 I had a lot of slop until I figured out I didn't have the bolts tight on the intermediate shaft...ones joining the shafts together.

-Mac

but if I'm seeing immediate movement (no slop or backlash) between the steering wheel and the connection to the box (I confess I don't know my upper steering parts very well), it would suggest my problem is after the shaft, no?

Hear is pretty on it, so I just assumed he would have covered that.

Don't you dare give me that much credit.

 

[Geepum]

but if I'm seeing immediate movement (no slop or backlash) between the steering wheel and the connection to the box (I confess I don't know my upper steering parts very well), it would suggest my problem is after the shaft, no?


Don't you dare give me that much credit.

I read some of your write ups. I’d pay you more than some of these tech school trained fuck giraffes I’ve worked with!

 

[hear]

I read some of your write ups. I’d pay you more than some of these tech school trained fuck giraffes I’ve worked with!

Well you're f'd either way then.

 

[hear]

Any other troubleshooting steps to take before I buy one of these expensive Redhead boxes?

 

[Geepum]

Dry steer test just to make sure you don’t need nothing else while your in there maybe?

 

[hear]

Dry steer test just to make sure you don’t need nothing else while your in there maybe?

I'll do the zj upgrade at some point, but this jeep is on a budget for the time being, and there's not any hard evidence that the lower components need replaced yet. That was the first thing I looked at, actually.

 

[macleanflood]

expensive Redhead boxes?

That's what I used... it's been good to me for a year. Yeah I should have done PSC but I just don't have that kind of money.

I figured too since they're in the Seattle area I could at least drive up and yell at them.

-Mac

 

[hear]

This particular TJ is only going off-road if it happens to encounter a gravel driveway somewhere.

 

[CreepinDeth]

My buddy runs a shop
They told me avoid rebuilt steering gears

I bought one new for my 2003 and just installed it two weeks ago. I had 3” of free play even after replacing all steering linkage with HD everything. It was scary at higher speeds

Alot tighter now
New off Rock Auto was $400 and change, but again this was the Daimler Benz era steering gear

 

[Geepum]

That's what I used... it's been good to me for a year. Yeah I should have done PSC but I just don't have that kind of money.

I figured too since they're in the Seattle area I could at least drive up and yell at them.

-Mac

If they see your profile title, they’re going to void your warranty! JK

 

[hosejockey61]

Do a dry steer test and watch the pitman arm from underneath. You'll see the connection to the intermediate shaft and should be able to tell where your issue is. I have a short clip in my death wobble video at the 12:50 mark. You can see the shaft move side to side and not in a circular motion as if it were tight.

I've seen boxes with low miles and a lot if play as well as boxes with high mileage and very little play. Rebuilding them isn't bad but generally speaking that is only to resolve leaks or tap for poor man hydro assist.

 

[hear]

Yeah, I have a leaking hose but the gearbox itself seems to be well-sealed so a rebuild doesn't seem like it will solve problem.

I'm not sure how a dry test is going to rule out the gear as a problem, with the engine off I have 20+ degrees of play before I get any resistance and nothing south of the box has moved yet. Ive had a helper crank the wheel over & back and haven't seen anything out of the ordinary at any of the joints. I'd much rather just replace tie rod ends but seems like my most major issue is after the shaft but before the drag link.

Or maybe I don't understand what a dry steering test is.