Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Steering drift

grabeb

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
Jun 29, 2021
Messages
366
Location
Kansas
So my daughter was getting off hwy yesterday and said her 01 sport wasn't turning just kept going straight, but finally turned.

I thought she hydroplaned due to rain, but she's got 31 KO2s, so thought odd.

Then she came home later and said she almost tagged a car in front cause it wouldn't stop. I decided that was bad booster.

Got new master and booster installed and we went for spin. I thought steering was wondering a bit at stop and drifting. Wheel turned too much compared to wheels. I don't drive this often, so not real used to it.

I looked around and I think maybe too much play in tie rod? I replaced those a few years back. There shouldn't be this much play should there?

Guess i can't post short video. But that castle nut moves a lot.

Anything else to look at?

20250906_163309.jpg
 
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So my daughter was getting off hwy yesterday and said her 01 sport wasn't turning just kept going straight, but finally turned.

I thought she hydroplaned due to rain, but she's got 31 KO2s, so thought odd.

Then she came home later and said she almost tagged a car in front cause it wouldn't stop. I decided that was bad booster.

Got new master and booster installed and we went for spin. I thought steering was wondering a bit at stop and drifting. Wheel turned too much compared to wheels. I don't drive this often, so not real used to it.

I looked around and I think maybe too much play in tie rod? I replaced those a few years back. There shouldn't be this much play should there?

Guess i can't post short video. But that castle nut moves a lot.

Anything else to look at?

View attachment 641341

Thought she hydroplaned
Has KO2s

Highly suspect 🤔🤔🤔
 
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Or you could prop your phone up and start recording your front end while you do the dry steer test. I also like to turn to full lock left and right at the end of the test. When I did that it really magnified my loose track bar axle bolt and some other loose bolts
 
Well, I was out must if the evening, but came home and tightened that nut way up. Seems much better, so not sure what the deal was and why loose. I'll get a new end and replace.

Everything else looks fine. I upgraded everything a few years back to the ZJ, but had to replace the gear box, so maybe in that swap it for some reason wasn't put back as tight, but that was almost 2yrs ago itself.
 
So, I looked it up it was 2021 that I did the front end swap to ZY. A year or two since I did the gear box. Ran with Amazon ordered moog parts following links provided by thread on here dealing with the conversion.

Reorder, that tie rod is $30, right now, but a week or so out. O'Reilly is $50 for their master pro end. I can look elsewhere, but hard to find some of this local. Opinions on this?

I'm also considering loosening it and feeling for play, maybe it's ok? But something tells me if loose for any amount of time damage is likely done?!

Thoughts here?

I'm thinking the reason somewhat loose is i tightened it down and now the cotter pin is almost out of the castle nut. I went about turn, maybe just over. So, on install it might have seated, hit torque and aligned fits with cost cotter and called good, then things 'settled'. ;) I'll check torque specs tomorrow, was just curious tonight so played with it for 30 min.
 
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I'll check torque specs tomorrow, was just curious tonight so played with it for 30 min.

Did you check tq?


I’d rule out steering components before immediately jumping at the gear box. Not saying no it’s not possible to get a bad part or have a installation error but that’s probably the most costly repair you’re looking at compared to $30-50 for your tie rod
 
Did you check tq?


I’d rule out steering components before immediately jumping at the gear box. Not saying no it’s not possible to get a bad part or have a installation error but that’s probably the most costly repair you’re looking at compared to $30-50 for your tie rod

I have not YET, I will. I tightened up last night kind of late and then ran it around the neighborhood hitting the brakes hard and doing various turns, etc. Everything felt tight and she had somewhere she wanted to be this am, so I let her take it to see her thoughts.

When she returns, I'll crawl under pop off the tie rod to see if it feels like it's got excess play and either re-install or re-place it going to torque. I have noticed torque doesn't seem to 100% align with cotter pin alignment. Meaning either way to high or too low for pin to do any good.

Yeah, that gearbox is NOT real fun. I've done it two or three times now. First time, I grabbed a salvage unit, hoping it would get me through having my factory unit rebuilt. I was going to send it off, but then that shop said, if not modifying just run to O'Reilly and grab a certain one because it's what they start with if they don't have a core. So I ended up doing that as the salvage one also leaked from the front seal. There has been a strange pop when she backs out at times, so I have questioned if that's in that box and then with this issue. She's also running a stock height suspension with the biggest tire that fits, so....

Just everything going on is making me wonder if I back up and start over. She did text saying it feels fine, but brake pedal still feels loose, so I have to check that still. Wondered if it could be bled again, but I was short on time last night. Might pull it up onto the lift vs crawling on the ground again. The master/booster was just easier on the ground.
 
I finally found the receipt for gearbox. I actually ended up with part from Advance Auto, that looks identical to the factory. It does have lifetime warranty, so the only cost is my time and fluid.

I recall one or two times it wasn't bad, but the last time was a PIA for some reason and shortly thereafter the clock spring broke. Have to admit makes me wonder if something got off. Replaced it April 2024.
 
No need to remove it to check.

Take 5 min to pop it loose. Wouldn't that tell me more about looseness and ability to feel if something on the joint feels off?

If on how do I know? I did the dry test and no other movements with everything tight.

Where would popping come from also?
Maybe ball joints?
 
It may tell you less if you remove it, because you can't put as much pressure, sideways, on those joints.

Just do a dry steering test. Have your daughter rock the steering wheel back and forth slowly and firmly while you watch each joint closely (or take a closeup video of them to watch later). Look for movement between the two components.
 
It may tell you less if you remove it, because you can't put as much pressure, sideways, on those joints.

Just do a dry steering test. Have your daughter rock the steering wheel back and forth slowly and firmly while you watch each joint closely (or take a closeup video of them to watch later). Look for movement between the two components.

Will do. Spoke with an uncle who's a retired mechanic, he agrees to just watch it and see over few days.

I'll double check torque as well and it needs new cotter pin.

I just know some of the steering issues in these jeeps are a bit different than other cars it seems. Just a week or two ago, she had it on interstate for 1-1/2 each way to visit a friend at her school. Said it handled great at 75. I'd have thought if that tie rod was that loose to show now it should have shown then.

I really appreciate the help on this. I can do the work, have the tools, etc, but I will admit i fall short in that i don't do it often enough to recall every detail.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts