Front air locker not engaging

diverdownjames

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Jun 10, 2025
Messages
16
Location
Wisconsin
Have an LJ that I upfitted with rubicon axles. Rear locker works perfectly, front locker pump rubs for less than a second and does not lock. Opened diff cover and all lines connected appropriately. Disconnect inner air line and pump runs continuously. Locking collar doesn't move at all. Seems to be instantly pressurizing and then stopping. Carrier has not been removed at any point. Have bew pumps and have tried both pumps. Also tried regulated shop air directly at 8 psi. Thoughts for next steps? Donor TJ had 130K miles and reportedly lockers were working when removed.
 
Typos (Fat fingers)

Pump doesnt rub, it runs** for less than a second.

Pumps are both new**

2004 LJ
NP241
4 " lift
34" skinny tires
12K winch
Rubicrawler to be installed next
 
To confirm- with a front tire off the ground, what happens when you engage the front, the pump shuts off, and you spin the raised tire by hand?
 
To confirm- with a front tire off the ground, what happens when you engage the front, the pump shuts off, and you spin the raised tire by hand?

Acts like an open differential. In 2wd, thebdriveshaft spins and the other tire is stationary, in 4wd, the other tire spins opposite. With the cover off, I am easily able to manually engage the locker collar and while there isntorque applied to a wheel it stays locked, but without either constant torque/spinning the wheel it unlocks, so doesn't seem to have a jammed collar, but seems to behave as though there is a clog somewhere within the bladder system potentially?
 
Bypass the axle housing and run the long pump hose directly into the actuator.
 
Also I have tried with axle shaft removed on drivers side and still no movement of the collar by air pressure alone, but manual movement is easy
 
Did this when I took the cover off, no dice. Tried shop air at 5 psi, no luck. Raised to 8 then 10 psi, no luck.

In spite of what you were told, my immediate suspicion is that the locker came out in the past and was reinstalled without extending the plunger on the position indicater switch.

This will cause the switch to interfere with the actuator.
 
Can switch be removed with carrier in place? I know replacement of switch is carrier out, but I don't need the switch as it isn't a factory rubicon jeep so it isn't sending signal to the computer
 
Can switch be removed with carrier in place? I know replacement of switch is carrier out, but I don't need the switch as it isn't a factory rubicon jeep so it isn't sending signal to the computer

If installed incorrectly, then the plunger switch can be removed with the carrier in place. Unscrew it and plug the hole with a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT pipe plug from the hardware store. I forget which size.

If the plunger switch is installed correctly, then you have to force it over the actuator. I do not know what the risk of damage is to the actuator by forcing things apart.

The safest option is to pull the locker out a small amount and then unscrew the plunger switch. And we still do not know for certain this is where the problem is
 
If installed incorrectly, then the plunger switch can be removed with the carrier in place. Unscrew it and plug the hole with a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT pipe plug from the hardware store. I forget which size.

If the plunger switch is installed correctly, then you have to force it over the actuator. I do not know what the risk of damage is to the actuator by forcing things apart.

The safest option is to pull the locker out a small amount and then unscrew the plunger switch. And we still do not know for certain this is where the problem is

Will pick up a plug tomorrow, atrempt to gently remove assuming installed improperly, if resistance will take cover off again and pull carrier to remove and plug hole. Any bench testing recommendations for the actuator when out? I will trial onboard pump of course. If the switch can trap locker in locked position, would an elongated plug be an option to manually lock the carrier during planned aggressive offroad activities and switch to a shirt plug when done?
 
If installed incorrectly, then the plunger switch can be removed with the carrier in place. Unscrew it and plug the hole with a 1/8" or 1/4" NPT pipe plug from the hardware store. I forget which size.

If the plunger switch is installed correctly, then you have to force it over the actuator. I do not know what the risk of damage is to the actuator by forcing things apart.

The safest option is to pull the locker out a small amount and then unscrew the plunger switch. And we still do not know for certain this is where the problem is

Sensor came out without resistance, symptoms remain the same. Plug is 1/4 npt
 
Pull the cover. Pull the rubber line off the actuator. Run the pump. Is air coming through? Is pump running continuously?

If so, actuator isn't actuating. If not, air line is blocked somewhere.

Not that complicated.
 
Pull the cover. Pull the rubber line off the actuator. Run the pump. Is air coming through? Is pump running continuously?

If so, actuator isn't actuating. If not, air line is blocked somewhere.

Not that complicated.

I have done that, air comes through continuously, but when the line is connected it behaves as if clamped like there is no space for the air to pump to, and the locker is not actuating, air comes out continuously. I have not seen failure of air getting into the locker actuator being a problem in any posts, so didn't know if anyone had experienced them "clogging" or had a solution for that. Given lack of production of the actuator it looks like I will likely have to transition to an E locker or ARB, but if the original was salvageable I would prefer that. Just looking to see if anyone had run into this before.
 
I have done that, air comes through continuously, but when the line is connected it behaves as if clamped like there is no space for the air to pump to, and the locker is not actuating, air comes out continuously. I have not seen failure of air getting into the locker actuator being a problem in any posts, so didn't know if anyone had experienced them "clogging" or had a solution for that. Given lack of production of the actuator it looks like I will likely have to transition to an E locker or ARB, but if the original was salvageable I would prefer that. Just looking to see if anyone had run into this before.

I know nothing about these, but is it possible that to run a small wire or something into the air hose/channel whatever on the locker? Maybe a clog between where the hose connects and the actuator?