P0016 is basically that the camshaft and crankshaft are not in sync
P2308 is ignition coil issues, which I think is due to the starting issues caused by the crankshaft
Engine won't run after tummy tuck install
- Thread starter glenntroy
- Start date
P0016 is basically that the camshaft and crankshaft are not in sync
P2308 is ignition coil issues, which I think is due to the starting issues caused by the crankshaft
But if I unplug the crankshaft position sensor it’s still hard to start but idles much better - almost normal
I still suspect that you have a different issue from the previous owner not plugging a sensor in properly that was disrupted from the TT.
Okay, I will go through them all again. It is strange because it ran perfectly before and the TT is not very intrusive in the engine compartment. If you have any other ideas, I’d appreciate it.
Id get a code scanner that can read DB3 and see how far out of sync your camshaft is.
Might just need a bump of an adjustment.
-Mac
Might just need a bump of an adjustment.
-Mac
You need to check the crank sensor wiring. If I'm reading this correctly you tried a new crank sensor and had the same problem, but it runs OK with no crank sensor.
You can also try running it with the crank sensor connected, but the cam sensor disconnected.
You can also try running it with the crank sensor connected, but the cam sensor disconnected.
I did check that and it’s solid, but realizing the miles on the engine, I did order a new one as part of some deferred maintenance work.
The crank sensor circuit has a problem if it only has the issue when the crank sensor is connected.
JKP - So I disconnected the camshaft sensor but left the crank case sensor connected, and it took longer to start but then it ran fine once started. I then plugged it in while running and it ran fine - but then I turned off the engine and tried to restart it (with both connected) and it was having problems starting and idling. Based on your feedback, it sounds like the crankshaft sensor and/or wiring is bad, does that sound like a good diagnosis?
Yes, it had failed the crank sensor when you started with it disconnected, and didn't look for it. It only used the cam sensor. Once you shut it off and restarted, it saw the crank sensor connected.
Wow.
Only thing I can think of is cam/crank sensor mismatch. But it usually runs OK with that, it just throws a code and goes into limp mode.
If you remove the OPDA cap and then bring cyl 1 to TDC compression, the hole in the OPDA wheel should align with the hole in the OPDA base. If not, it's out of alignment.
Only thing I can think of is cam/crank sensor mismatch. But it usually runs OK with that, it just throws a code and goes into limp mode.
If you remove the OPDA cap and then bring cyl 1 to TDC compression, the hole in the OPDA wheel should align with the hole in the OPDA base. If not, it's out of alignment.
I am not sure why you'd have starting issues, since you'd be in a closed loop in the PCM. Issues would likely happen when things are up to operating temperatures and using sensor inputs to adjust timing/spark/whatever.
However a moderately common issue with tummy tucks is pinching the wires between the tub and the bell housing. I would trace out your wire loom and ensure there's no wires exposed or squashed. I pulled my whole harness more than once tracing down some random stall issues (that were ultimately the PCM being bad).
However a moderately common issue with tummy tucks is pinching the wires between the tub and the bell housing. I would trace out your wire loom and ensure there's no wires exposed or squashed. I pulled my whole harness more than once tracing down some random stall issues (that were ultimately the PCM being bad).
This happened to me as well. For whatever reason after the tuck and the motor mount lift, the OPDA had somehow shifted and was no longer aligned. Ran really crappy and threw a CEL. I used a wrench to get to TDC, adjusted the OPDA and boom. No longer an issue. Replace your OPDA if you have the LDI one whether it is worn or not.
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