Dyno Testing Bolt-ons On The 4.0

[SkylinesSuck]

It may be a little much, but since it's strapped down anyways, may I suggest doing pulls both pre and post retune after each mod?

 

[Jezza]

Start simple, oversized throttle body, cold air from the cowl, lockout hubs?

I don't have a good way to test lockout hubs. I would need a 4wd dyno for that. The 248 I have is 2wd only.

 

[Jezza]

Oh and maybe an edelbrock aluminum head, once the mods get more in depth

I'm not sure that qualifies as a bolt on. Not to mention it's a bit out of my price range. If someone donates one I will test it 100%.

 

[Jezza]

It may be a little much, but since it's strapped down anyways, may I suggest doing pulls both pre and post retune after each mod?

I will most likely end up doing 5 or so pulls for each mod during the tuning phase. I'll need to do an initial pull to see where it's at and then a few after that to get it dialed in.

 

[Rickyd]

I'm not sure that qualifies as a bolt on. Not to mention it's a bit out of my price range. If someone donates one I will test it 100%.

I'll donate mine for the dyno runs if you put LS valves in it for me before sending it back!

 

[Steel City 06]

I will most likely end up doing 5 or so pulls for each mod during the tuning phase. I'll need to do an initial pull to see where it's at and then a few after that to get it dialed in.

Are the pulls time limited? I'd be very interested to see when timing gets pulled and by how much during a run. Full throttle for two minutes should produce some pretty noticeable power drop especially with the bone stock configuration

 

[astjp2]

I'll donate mine for the dyno runs if you put LS valves in it for me before sending it back!

5.7 hemi valves are oversized and correct length

 

[srimes]

My anecdotal experience is it helped a LOT with allowing the engine to keep more advanced timing, even with the tune I previously had.

Here's the caveat though: it may be extremely difficult to get this to show on a dyno, unless the dyno is able to take very long full-power pulls.

In my experience, the gain largely occurs after having sat at full throttle for some time. In the normal setup, you have full power immediately, with maybe 10 seconds for the timing to start retarding, with it noticeably retarding after about 30 seconds to a minute in. The Windstar intake did not appreciably change the initial power level for me. However, it did allow that power level to be sustained indefinitely, and it is extremely noticeable when holding full throttle for 2-3 minutes.

The gain also seems to be largely independent of the engine RPMs as well. At 2,000 or at 5,000 RPM and full throttle, I would always get that sluggish feeling after a couple minutes. Now it does not happen much at all, except for very low RPMs (1500 or less), but it's seldom you'd want to hold full throttle at those low RPMs for more than a minute anyways.

Also of note, I suspect in my case power enrichment as programmed in the PCM does not really provide much of a gain if at all, and is instead there to prevent detonation. My tune keeps it out of PE except for when my pedal is absolutely to the floor, and I try to keep the pedal out of that condition (usually closer to 95% throttle) until pinging sets in. (Then the pedal is floored or I just downshift.)

Makes climbing the hills around here a lot faster for sure.

Need some load cell motor mounts for an in-car dyno. Load cells have gotten quite affordable, not sure why this isn't common yet.

 

[Steel City 06]

Need some load cell motor mounts for an in-car dyno. Load cells have gotten quite affordable, not sure why this isn't common yet.

Seems like it would be fairly straightforward to build one. Start with an induction motor and a bidirectional variable frequency drive on a sufficiently large power supply. Just a common 480 3-phase delta hookup rated for 800A continuous (common service for a pair of 350kW fast chargers) would be able to sink nearly 1,000 HP indefinitely, and probably a lot higher for short periods.

 

[ColoJeep]

I'll donate mine for the dyno runs if you put LS valves in it for me before sending it back!

WOW ! , You have the heart of a servant !.........

 

[srimes]

Seems like it would be fairly straightforward to build one. Start with an induction motor and a bidirectional variable frequency drive on a sufficiently large power supply. Just a common 480 3-phase delta hookup rated for 800A continuous (common service for a pair of 350kW fast chargers) would be able to sink nearly 1,000 HP indefinitely, and probably a lot higher for short periods.

Wut? No just load cells as part of the motor mounts to constantly measure torque output as you drive around.

 

[Steel City 06]

Wut? No just load cells as part of the motor mounts to constantly measure torque output as you drive around.

Ah, missed the in-car part. Just would need to figure out the heat dissipation. 200+ HP is a lot of heat...

 

[srimes]

Ah, missed the in-car part. Just would need to figure out the heat dissipation. 200+ HP is a lot of heat...

Yeah, if the factory cooling system isn't up for the job you'll want to upgrade it.

I'm saying if you squeeze load cells (weight scales) into the motor mounts you'll have real-time power output measurement during normal use. The motor mounts are what keeps the engine block and transmission case from spinning around, so it's a measurement of the torque output at the driveshaft(s). Multiply by how fast the driveshaft is spinning (speedometer) and you have real-time power measurement, all the time.

Want to see how power changes while blasting up a mountain pass? Go blast up a mountain pass. It's a real-world measurement.

 

[Jezza]

Are the pulls time limited? I'd be very interested to see when timing gets pulled and by how much during a run. Full throttle for two minutes should produce some pretty noticeable power drop especially with the bone stock configuration

The 248 I use is mass based with no load brake. The runs only last as long as it takes to accelerate the mass to speed. The lower the power the shorter the pull. It's super accurate however vs load based units as the load never changes. It's a 3000+ lbs drum and the dyno pc does all the math.

 

[Steel City 06]

Yeah, if the factory cooling system isn't up for the job you'll want to upgrade it.

I'm saying if you squeeze load cells (weight scales) into the motor mounts you'll have real-time power output measurement during normal use. The motor mounts are what keeps the engine block and transmission case from spinning around, so it's a measurement of the torque output at the driveshaft(s). Multiply by how fast the driveshaft is spinning (speedometer) and you have real-time power measurement, all the time.

Want to see how power changes while blasting up a mountain pass? Go blast up a mountain pass. It's a real-world measurement.

Ah I see. I thought you were referring along the line of a portable induction brake like roller coasters and drop towers use

 

[Jezza]

First video is up

 

[GregBelleville]

First video is up

I predict the tune up will be the biggest difference too.

 

[BlueC]

First video is up

Only 2 straps to hold that much power back? Livin' dangerously.

 

[Steel City 06]

Allegedly it is possible to hit 1,000+ HP on a properly built 4.0 I6...
https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-t...line-6-world-record-while-trying-for-1000-hp/

Just need 11.8:1 compression ratio plus a turbo with 27+ PSI of boost.

 

[Woodrow]

First video is up

Science! I love it. Looking forward to this series