Diagnosing clunking sound

TJosh02

TJ Enthusiast
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I could use some help on things to look for or check when diagnosing bad clunking sound when shifting (NV3550). I am getting really bad clunking sound when shifting, worse in lower gears but there in all gears. Here is the thing, when I get on or off the gas it also does it but a bit less severe. My control arms are all tight.

I did notice I have a pretty decent dent in my front drive shaft that makes it look like it is bent ever so slightly. It shifts just fine without grinding or anything. I did notice some moisture coming from between the transmission and engine area.

I am waiting for shop time to have my 231 replaced with a 241 I have (no space to do it myself or I might attempt it). I was planning to get a new FDS then anyway as this one was just a temp replacement.

I was thinking of pulling the FDS and going for a spin, but I think that isn't it.
 
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Cyclical clunking, or individual clunks each time you shift? Clunk on application of the gas, or when you let off? Does it match up with the tire speed, the driveshaft speed, or the engine speed?
 
It is a one time clunk when shifting or getting on/off the gas abruptly. Not speed dependent.
 
I could use some help on things to look for or check when diagnosing bad clunking sound when shifting (NV3550).
I did notice I have a pretty decent dent in my front drive shaft that makes it look like it is bent ever so slightly.
I am waiting for shop time to have my 231 replaced with a 241 I have (no space to do it myself

U-joint issue. Let them figure it out for free.
p.s. My old Jeep did that when the rear track bar didn't have an angled bracket and hit the gas tank skid every time I was ON or OFF the gas.
 
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It is a one time clunk when shifting or getting on/off the gas abruptly. Not speed dependent.

How long have you owned your Jeep? What kind of condition are your motor and transmission mounts in? Is the transfer case skid loose? If you have a helper, with the Jeep OFF, and in either 1st or revers gear, lay down underneath is and have your helper rock it forwards and backwards and listen for the clunk, and see if you see anything moving or shifting that shouldn't be.
 
Figured it out! Turns out my new TMR skid had the two front bolts missing and the middle ones were half out, so the skid plate was banging against the rails. Couldn't have been more obvious. I guess I need to put some locktight on them to ensure they don't keep backing out with the inevitable vibrations that MTs and a dented FDS bring.

What color lock-tight should I use, red or blue?
 
Figured it out! Turns out my new TMR skid had the two front bolts missing and the middle ones were half out, so the skid plate was banging against the rails. Couldn't have been more obvious. I guess I need to put some locktight on them to ensure they don't keep backing out with the inevitable vibrations that MTs and a dented FDS bring.

What color lock-tight should I use, red or blue?

I personally wouldn't use lock tight at all. If you strip out one of those nutserts you will be hating life. I'd put antisieze on them and then torque them to spec. Some even say torque to a little bit less than spec if you have antisieze on the threads because the antisieze makes it easier to turn. If they keep backing out try using lock washers.
 
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