I'm sorry, but Jeff's "tons and fodeez" just hits different y'know.
Maybe he needs to be tagged to get his attention? lol he's going to feel like he wasn't invited to the party.
I'm sorry, but Jeff's "tons and fodeez" just hits different y'know.
Maybe he needs to be tagged to get his attention? lol he's going to feel like he wasn't invited to the party.
I'm now at a point where a decision needs to be made on what do do about the rear. The Jeep is a 2004 LJ, with a stock LJ 3.73 disc brake rear. While I say the maximum tire size I see is 35, I do believe there could come a point where 37s might find there way onto the Jeep. While this is a remote possibility anytime soon, the fact that I'm thinking it tells me to plan accordingly.
With that remote possibility, I don't want to waste money. This leads me to the decision that needs to be made. The way I see it there are two paths to take:
- Option 1. Buy an Eaton E locker and install that along with 5.38 gears (The front has a Rubicon 44 that I just installed) in my current rear. Then, if I did decide to go 37s in the future, I'd have to sell it and upgrade later.
- Option 2. Purchase a complete Currie HP Dana 60 now, with E-Locker and 5.38s
The cost difference between the two is significant. With Option 1, I'm looking at roughly $2000 - $2200, which includes someone else doing the re-gear for me. With Option 2, I'm looking at $5800, so that's a $3600 delta. For that difference, I get a much stronger, even with the semi-float design, rear that could hold up to a 37" tire and I don't sacrifice ground clearance.
The only things making me hesitate are the stock 60.5 width and the fact that I'd also need to factor in a rear AntiRock to get the most travel at full droop. The stock 60.5" width is really the big factor making me pause. Common sense says if I'm going to go to the trouble of buying and installing a Dana 60, it should be a minimum of 63.5' width. Thoughts?
My opinion is build it for 37's now. I believe you'll end up there eventually. Also, don't discredit those that you wheel with that are running broncos on 37's and 44's...There is an answer there. The "right" 44 can be built and work for 37's (as long as you don't want 40's, later, LOL)
I'll be crystal clear about one thing here. I'm not unhappy at all with the TJ. In fact, it's the complete opposite. The TJ has exceeded all my expectations. It drives fantastic, performs flawlessly off road, and takes me almost anywhere I'd want to go. Being very honest, it is my favorite. Especially given all the work and thought I've put into it. The only reason it's going to a new home is complete a promise I made to my son. This is a multi-year story that I won't go into here. A story that could have had a much darker ending.Now, you're unhappy with the TJ, or wanting to pass it on. However you've come to the decision to build the LJ, you've stated its a full build now. Great! But...you're already thinking about 37's in the future. You've HAD an LJ on 35's...so you know what that is (and I suspect its why 37's are in your head).
...Realistically, I don't see myself going 37s on the LJ, but with all the wasted money I've spent on mods over the years, it's more about your post #8 "future proofing" comment. I don't know what I don't know.
Think about it this way too, if you go with the rear 60, then you will definitely go 37's, likely skipping 35's all together. LJ's look about perfect on 35's IMO.Realistically, I don't see myself going 37s on the LJ.
Hard to beat this build right here https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...for-daily-driving-and-weekend-adventure.7068/
Hard to beat this build right here https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...for-daily-driving-and-weekend-adventure.7068/
Blaine's work is a dance between art and science. There is something of value in everything he posts. You just have to be open to learning, coupled with a willingness to put your own pride aside.Or if you need to go a bit bigger https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/aluminati-lj.7067/
There is a significant difference between the front and rear. For the front, I already have the 5.38 gears and install kit to make that happen. For what I paid for the 44 front, which came with Revolution gears and install kit, I could easily sell it and clear a profit, if I sold it in the future. Plus, I already have a spare Rubicon front locker, NOS diaphragm, and a set of brand new locker pumps. The rear is not from a Rubicon, which means I need to install a locker and rebuild kit. The locker alone is roughly $1100.But if you do not see yourself going to 37s isn't the most likely way you will waste money by spending it on an axle you don't need?
I'll ask another question to try and help you frame your thinking. Do you think your Dana 44 front is up to 37s. There seem to be differing views expressed in this thread, but what do you think? If your answer is you do not think the Dana 44 front is up to 37s, what made you comfortable swapping that axle into your LJ? And, if it is about future proofing should you not abandon the Dana 44 front and future proof the front axle as well?
There is almost no penalty for running a 1-2" wheel spacer on a rear axle to get some additional width. We do it all the time and then have a front axle built to the correct width for the tire size. There is a pretty big group of folks who bought that piece of shit G2 HP rear Currie 60 housing set up at TJ width so they can slap their 35 spline Set 10 Dana 44 shafts in it and call it a 60. It is too narrow for 37's but a set of wheel spacers fixes that right up. You can't do the same to the front unless you want fucked up steering.
The logic was basic. G2 had their own supply of lockers, gear sets, and axle shafts in 35 spline for the Dana 44. All cheaper than Currie could supply them for as a complete axle assembly. All they needed was a housing to stick it all in and they convinced Currie to do them. They came without the welded on bosses to bolt Currie's truss onto and compounding that error for the sake of economy, they got them to drill and tap the vent fitting right where that boss would weld. That means if you wanted to use the bolt on truss, you had fill the hole with weld and move it.I had to look up the G2 HP 60. It certainly makes you wonder why someone would buy a 60 housing, but then build it with Dana 44 bearings. There must be some logic there, but I'm missing it.
