Complete Steering and Suspension Refresh

[bobthetj03]

With the engine turned off, have a friend saw the wheel 10-2oclock while you put your fingers on each tie rod end at the grease boot. If you see or feel any up/down movement, or independent side to side movement of the tie rod joint, replace it. The track bar has a tie rod end at the frame side and a bushing at the axle end. Just replace the whole unit. Unit bearings, get Timken, BJ's, Spicer. Replace the front axle ujoints with Spicers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAURWQO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

For testing the ball joints, jack one wheel up till it is about an inch in the air, then take a long pry bar to the bottom of the tire and lift up/down and visually watch the ball joints. There should be no up/down movement of the joints. While you have the wheel in the air, grab the tire at the 12oclock/6oclock position and rock the tire back and forth. There should be no slop. Then spin the tire by hand and listen for any abnormal noise coming from the unit bearings. If they are smooth and no slop they are good.

The bump stops you mention are actually jounce bumpers. They are a soft material that will actually squish all the way to the steal cup under hard bump. You shouldn't need any additional bump stop extension with 31's and the H&R springs. Pair those springs with Rancho RS5000X shocks for 0" lift. You might also want to replace the sway bar end links and frame mount bushings.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8X7UPG/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[BlackJeep23]

If you replace the tie rod/drag link and track bar spend the money on the Currie stuff. I went with the crown automotive tie rod/drag link and the metal cloak track bar and regret it...

 

[afitzray97]

There's no way I know of. It's not until you try to press the new ones in you find out something isn't right and at that point you are well into it. That's why I'd wait, they could last another 300k.


You only need to get extended bump stops to protect the shock from bottoming out or to keep the tires out of the fenders. Where did you read or hear about using them to "keep equivalent suspension travel" I've never heard of that before you posted it.

When I say that I mean the same thing you’re talking about with avoiding bottoming out a shock and keeping the tires off the fenders. That’s why I suggested one inch longer bumpstops to compensate for the one inch longer springs. OP mentioned he’d like to run larger tires so if he goes up a size or two this would keep him off his fenders and wouldn’t have the possibility of over compressing the shock. I think we’re on the same page here but the wording I used may have been different.

 

[yummycurryboy]

I'm considering a 2inch lift using pro comp springs to go with the rancho shocks. Would I need to relocate the rear track bar?

This old man emu bracket looks easy enough:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_1142.htm

 

[yummycurryboy]

If you replace the tie rod/drag link and track bar spend the money on the Currie stuff. I went with the crown automotive tie rod/drag link and the metal cloak track bar and regret it...

I'll consider it. I will have to budget for them. Although, i just filed my taxes and the return looks pretty good...

 

[bobthetj03]

I'm considering a 2inch lift using pro comp springs to go with the rancho shocks. Would I need to relocate the rear track bar?

This old man emu bracket looks easy enough:
https://www.quadratec.com/products/16090_1142.htm

It would be advised to use the bracket if you go that route. If you do however, you'll want to add 1" of bump stop extension to the rear to keep the bracket from pinching the fuel pump wiring harness at full bump.

 

[yummycurryboy]

There

With the engine turned off, have a friend saw the wheel 10-2oclock while you put your fingers on each tie rod end at the grease boot. If you see or feel any up/down movement, or independent side to side movement of the tie rod joint, replace it. The track bar has a tie rod end at the frame side and a bushing at the axle end. Just replace the whole unit. Unit bearings, get Timken, BJ's, Spicer. Replace the front axle ujoints with Spicers

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QAURWQO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

For testing the ball joints, jack one wheel up till it is about an inch in the air, then take a long pry bar to the bottom of the tire and lift up/down and visually watch the ball joints. There should be no up/down movement of the joints. While you have the wheel in the air, grab the tire at the 12oclock/6oclock position and rock the tire back and forth. There should be no slop. Then spin the tire by hand and listen for any abnormal noise coming from the unit bearings. If they are smooth and no slop they are good.

The bump stops you mention are actually jounce bumpers. They are a soft material that will actually squish all the way to the steal cup under hard bump. You shouldn't need any additional bump stop extension with 31's and the H&R springs. Pair those springs with Rancho RS5000X shocks for 0" lift. You might also want to replace the sway bar end links and frame mount bushings.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8X7UPG/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Wow, thanks this is super helpful! I'll test the front end first thing tomorrow.

I completely misunderstood what bump-stops are, great catch! The jounce bumpers are definitely what I was looking at, they are completely deteriorated.

I am adding frame mount bushings to the list.

For the springs, I am also considering a 2 inch lift using pro comp springs and a rear track bar relocation bracket. Will that work? I am probably purchasing new control arms anyway, what would play well with a 2 inch lift?

 

[yummycurryboy]

It would be advised to use the bracket if you go that route. If you do however, you'll want to add 1" of bump stop extension to the rear to keep the bracket from pinching the fuel pump wiring harness at full bump.

Sweet, got it. Two inch lift needs rear track bar relocation and 1" of bump stop extension to the rear. That does not seem terribly difficult.

 

[afitzray97]

I'll consider it. I will have to budget for them. Although, i just filed my taxes and the return looks pretty good...

Just my opinion but I would at least try replacing the ends before upgrading to Currie steering. It’s great stuff but expensive and maybe not much return on investment when you’re just doing a refresh and not a big build. The end result you’re looking at doing I would bet that stock bars are more than adequate. I did the ZJ upgrade on my tie and drag but only bc I’m running 35’s. Couldn’t justify the cost of Currie steering (though I did buy their JJ control arms, springs, and track bar) until something really broke down on the trail and needed replacing. Some folks on here recommend great stuff but don’t seem to consider cost so you have to think about your own jeep and how you intend to use it or maybe abuse it.

 

[bobthetj03]

The Currie steering will require too much bump stop extension with that low of a lift. You're better off just going with stock replacements, or the ZJ tie rod upgrade if you want something beefier.

 

[bobthetj03]

For what it sounds like you are using the jeep for, the H&R spring/RS5000X shock combo would work well for you. Every TJ is different. Some will experience drive line vibes with even a 2" lift, in which case you would have to lower the t-case skid to cure it, are add a 1" motor mount lift to cure the added drive line angles. Also, with that lift you won't need that rear TB bracket or added Bump stop extension.

 

[afitzray97]

For what it sounds like you are using the jeep for, the H&R spring/RS5000X shock combo would work well for you. Every TJ is different. Some will experience drive line vibes with even a 2" lift, in which case you would have to lower the t-case skid to cure it, are add a 1" motor mount lift to cure the added drive line angles. Also, with that lift you won't need that rear TB bracket or added Bump stop extension.

No bump stop extension? I agree about no need for TB bracket at 1-2” though. First Tj I had I bought years ago with 2” taller springs but no other upgrades. Had blown out shocks and blew the next set I bought bc I didn’t understand the problem at the time or that I needed shocks to work within a certain range based on lift and subsequent suspension range w bumpstops. New bumpstops should have been my first purchase but live and learn I guess. Maybe I’m just thrown off from personal experience and most people are getting better results but I would think to match each inch of suspension lift with a near equal amount of bumpstop extension? (For standard lift, not outboarded or coilover etc.)

 

[yummycurryboy]

For what it sounds like you are using the jeep for, the H&R spring/RS5000X shock combo would work well for you. Every TJ is different. Some will experience drive line vibes with even a 2" lift, in which case you would have to lower the t-case skid to cure it, are add a 1" motor mount lift to cure the added drive line angles. Also, with that lift you won't need that rear TB bracket or added Bump stop extension.

I definitely hear you that it'll be easier to go with with no lift but I can't help wanting just a bit more height for the jeep. Just wondering, what else was done in combination with your OME lift? SYE and a CD drive shaft?

 

[yummycurryboy]

The Currie steering will require too much bump stop extension with that low of a lift. You're better off just going with stock replacements, or the ZJ tie rod upgrade if you want something beefier.

Yea, I think the Currie system is overkill for me. Better bang for buck in other mods.

 

[yummycurryboy]

Just my opinion but I would at least try replacing the ends before upgrading to Currie steering. It’s great stuff but expensive and maybe not much return on investment when you’re just doing a refresh and not a big build. The end result you’re looking at doing I would bet that stock bars are more than adequate. I did the ZJ upgrade on my tie and drag but only bc I’m running 35’s. Couldn’t justify the cost of Currie steering (though I did buy their JJ control arms, springs, and track bar) until something really broke down on the trail and needed replacing. Some folks on here recommend great stuff but don’t seem to consider cost so you have to think about your own jeep and how you intend to use it or maybe abuse it.

I'll test them out tomorrow to see if they even need to be replace. Currie is definitely overkill for me.

 

[bobthetj03]

No bump stop extension? I agree about no need for TB bracket at 1-2” though. First Tj I had I bought years ago with 2” taller springs but no other upgrades. Had blown out shocks and blew the next set I bought bc I didn’t understand the problem at the time or that I needed shocks to work within a certain range based on lift and subsequent suspension range w bumpstops. New bumpstops should have been my first purchase but live and learn I guess. Maybe I’m just thrown off from personal experience and most people are getting better results but I would think to match each inch of suspension lift with a near equal amount of bumpstop extension? (For standard lift, not outboarded or coilover etc.)

This is why it is so important to cycle the suspension with the springs out and measure at full bump to determine the proper length shocks to get. My OME 2.5" lift kit had the proper length shocks to match with the springs, so no additional bump stop extensions were needed up front. Only a 1" extension was needed to allow clearance of the added rear TB relocation bracket. Add bigger tires to the equation and then things change.

 

[afitzray97]

This is why it is so important to cycle the suspension with the springs out and measure at full bump to determine the proper length shocks to get. My OME 2.5" lift kit had the proper length shocks to match with the springs, so no additional bump stop extensions were needed up front. Only a 1" extension was needed to allow clearance of the added rear TB relocation bracket. Add bigger tires to the equation and then things change.

Yeah agreed on all your experience but I’m not sure it works universally since you bought a kit that matched springs to shocks. As soon as you change from stock height springs you should do the measurement you described then check the specs for range on your shock. OME has more lift range options for shocks than some others so I’m not sure it’s safe to just say no extra bumpstop needed because OP could do 1” and be fine or 2” where it puts it right at the break point for rancho shocks built for 0-2 or 2-4. Not understanding the issue they might go 2-4 thinking they’re getting something extra but it possibly ends up causing bottom out issues.

Basically, OME might have shocks with shorter canisters and therefore more range of motion than rancho, I personally don’t know but don’t want to lead OP in the wring direction.

To OP I would stick with 1” springs, it’s just so much easier on all fronts. You can stuff a 30 or 31 in there and it looks better than stock without killing your acceleration. Proper bumpstop will keep it from beating up your fenders while keeping stock ride you said you were looking to refresh. Prob no driveline vibrations or other crap to deal with too.

 

[AndyG]

Chris,

Thanks for replying! Thats a great tip, I will look for track bars with preset bushings. And I will definitely be replacing my ball joints with a set of Spicers.

How can I tell if my drag link ends and tie rod ends are worn out?

I like the K7252 Moog 3/4 ton Dodge truck track bar bushings in my rough country adjustable track bar . You can sleeve them to 12mm or upside the bolt to a 14mm , stout . Thanks to @ Dave Kispaugh for this awesome upgrade .

 

[afitzray97]

And if you do get into replacing tie rod ends or other steering equipment here’s a great write up by jerrybransford and 4x4xplor on how to get the alignment right
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-align-your-jeep-wrangler-tj.85/

 

[Rubisohoe]

By the end of this thread, these guys will have you talked into 10k in upgrades or a full blown rock crawling rig.