CA length adjustment questions

[jackeneses]

Several questions here:

I recently installed an AA SYE and Tom Woods DC shaft. Eyeballed my pinion angle, drove it around, vibes are gone. Have yet to get it to highway speed yet but so far so good.

Problem is, when adjusting my upper control arms, I got one control arm to the proper length for my pinion angle and slipped the bolt in, but I could not get the other one in. Tried jacking in different places, hammering, pry bar, etc. had to lengthen one control arm about 1/2 an inch longer than the other. I was so frustrated with it, I thought about taking it to a shop to have them figure it out.

I read somewhere about measuring the axle position to the rear skid bolts, which I plan on doing probably tonight.

I have Core 4x4 tier 3 single adjustable control arms all the way around, with their adjustable track bars.

Question 1: If my axle measurements are out of whack due to the different control arm lengths, how do I get the control arm in at the proper length when the bolt holes refuse to line up?

Next problem:

I have a JKS angled track bar relocation bracket. I currently have an OME track bar relocation bracket (non-angled). I have an OME 2.5 inch lift (which I think netted me about 3 inches of lift).

Question 2: With such short of lift do I need the angled track bar bracket? Will the drilled hole for the OME bracket be reused for the JKS angled bracket? Or will I have to drill another hole?

Next problem:

When removing my front driveshaft, the u joint that connects to the pinion caps came off and the needle bearings practically exploded out of them. That U joint was completely shot. It could have very well been my source of vibrations that I’ve been tracking down for months. The U joints in the double cardan are dry and rusted, and the caps don’t spin smoothly. I have the proper spicer replacement U joints, but don’t have a press, or any experience whatsoever replacing U joints. There is no shop within 2 hours drive time of me that is willing or able to rebuild the driveshaft. Some shops have offered to replace the pinion side U joint, but the others are pretty bad too and it would seem kind of dumb to only replace 1 of the 3.

Question 3: What should I do? Part of me wants to just buy a Tom Woods front DC shaft, but part of me doesn’t want to pay another $400!

Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading! I tried to search the forum for answers to my questions, and found a lot of useful information, but nothing that answered my specific questions. I apologize if this has been discussed before!

 

[macleanflood]

I rebuilt my front driveshaft. You can do it with a hammer and some deep sockets. A ball joint press helps. So does a hydraulic press. Done plenty of em sitting in the mud on a trail someplace with nothing but a hammer and deep socket.

I spent about $150 for ball joints and double carden pieces.

A month later I noticed the spline was seized and not sliding.

Ended up buying a new shaft. That's what I would suggest doing.

As to your first question you need to figure out where that axle is supposed to be first...string, lasers... whatever you need to do to find center of jeep and match center of axle etc.

Good luck!

-Mac

 

[JMT]

Several questions here:

I recently installed an AA SYE and Tom Woods DC shaft. Eyeballed my pinion angle, drove it around, vibes are gone. Have yet to get it to highway speed yet but so far so good.

Problem is, when adjusting my upper control arms, I got one control arm to the proper length for my pinion angle and slipped the bolt in, but I could not get the other one in. Tried jacking in different places, hammering, pry bar, etc. had to lengthen one control arm about 1/2 an inch longer than the other. I was so frustrated with it, I thought about taking it to a shop to have them figure it out.

I read somewhere about measuring the axle position to the rear skid bolts, which I plan on doing probably tonight.

I have Core 4x4 tier 3 single adjustable control arms all the way around, with their adjustable track bars.

Question 1: If my axle measurements are out of whack due to the different control arm lengths, how do I get the control arm in at the proper length when the bolt holes refuse to line up?

Next problem:

I have a JKS angled track bar relocation bracket. I currently have an OME track bar relocation bracket (non-angled). I have an OME 2.5 inch lift (which I think netted me about 3 inches of lift).

Question 2: With such short of lift do I need the angled track bar bracket? Will the drilled hole for the OME bracket be reused for the JKS angled bracket? Or will I have to drill another hole?

Next problem:

When removing my front driveshaft, the u joint that connects to the pinion caps came off and the needle bearings practically exploded out of them. That U joint was completely shot. It could have very well been my source of vibrations that I’ve been tracking down for months. The U joints in the double cardan are dry and rusted, and the caps don’t spin smoothly. I have the proper spicer replacement U joints, but don’t have a press, or any experience whatsoever replacing U joints. There is no shop within 2 hours drive time of me that is willing or able to rebuild the driveshaft. Some shops have offered to replace the pinion side U joint, but the others are pretty bad too and it would seem kind of dumb to only replace 1 of the 3.

Question 3: What should I do? Part of me wants to just buy a Tom Woods front DC shaft, but part of me doesn’t want to pay another $400!

Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading! I tried to search the forum for answers to my questions, and found a lot of useful information, but nothing that answered my specific questions. I apologize if this has been discussed before!

1: it doesn’t matter if they are different lengths.
2: no, you don’t need the angled relocation bracket. Reason: your pinion is probably not tilted enough to cause the rear trackbar to interfere with the gas tank crossmember or skid.
3: get a Tom Wood’s front driveshaft. Reason: your splines are probably wearing and the shaft probably not the right length. You can rebuild it easy enough with a BFH and some sockets, but do you want to do that and then replace the whole shaft a year from now?

 

[jackeneses]

1: it doesn’t matter if they are different lengths.
2: no, you don’t need the angled relocation bracket. Reason: your pinion is probably not tilted enough to cause the rear trackbar to interfere with the gas tank crossmember or skid.
3: get a Tom Wood’s front driveshaft. Reason: your splines are probably wearing and the shaft probably not the right length. You can rebuild it easy enough with a BFH and some sockets, but do you want to do that and then replace the whole shaft a year from now?

Thank you. I ordered a Tom Woods front shaft, and I’ll keep the angled bracket for if I ever decide to go with a bigger lift.