Build plan for 33s

[Wsutherlin]

1997, 4.0, auto, 30/35. Not my daily driver. Mostly street use and light - mild off-road. (South Alabama is mostly mud and I had enough of that in my younger years) I want to stick with 33s and try not to have to get into control arms or sye. This is the setup I plan on going with. Is there anything I’m missing or anything you would change and why?
DPG off-road ultimate kit:

• 4-OME Sport Series Shocks
• 4-OME Coil Springs (HD springs)
• JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
• JKS 1.25″ Body Lift
• Brown dog mml
• JKS Adj. Track bar (front) JKS Adj. Trackbar (rear)
• DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
• JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links

ZJ steering

4:11 gears

Truetrac in rear

33x12.5r15 bfg ko2s

15x10 Micky Thompson classics

 

[Ir0nH3@d]

thats a solid build plan. I'd go with an 8" wide rim with 3.75"-4" backspacing, leave the rear diff open and add an aussie or similar lunchbox locker to the front.

 

[GPK03X]

JKS body lift is known to compress. 8” wide rims are generally recommended.

 

[Harold&Cat]

That is similar to our build . OME springs , two inch bump stops , one inch spacer on front to level. Our front springs have been on there for eleven years and now we added a winch so the springs were sagging a little .
Also running 4.88 gears with Trutracs front and rear .
Tires are 33.1 inches tall and almost 10 inches wide on 6 inch wide wheels . 255/85r16

Not running a body lift .

 

[Wsutherlin]

thats a solid build plan. I'd go with an 8" wide rim with 3.75"-4" backspacing, leave the rear diff open and add an aussie or similar lunchbox locker to the front.

I like the 10” wheels for looks and don’t plan on ever needing to air down much. Is there any other reason to go with 8s besides airing down?

 

[Wsutherlin]

JKS body lift is known to compress. 8” wide rims are generally recommended.

What brand would be better? Savvy?

 

[Wsutherlin]

That is similar to our build . OME springs , two inch bump stops , one inch spacer on front to level. Our front springs have been on there for eleven years and now we added a winch so the springs were sagging a little .
Also running 4.88 gears with Trutracs front and rear .
Tires are 33.1 inches tall and almost 10 inches wide on 6 inch wide wheels . 255/85r16

Not running a body lift .

View attachment 572974

Nice LJ

 

[Westtown Willy]

Is there anything I’m missing or anything you would change and why?

Yes, stronger axle shafts in the rear, I'd upgrade at a minimum to stronger 27 spline shafts if you're not adding a locker.

 

[jjvw]

What brand would be better? Savvy?

Blackmagicbrakes.com

 

[Murf926]

1997, 4.0, auto, 30/35. Not my daily driver. Mostly street use and light - mild off-road. (South Alabama is mostly mud and I had enough of that in my younger years) I want to stick with 33s and try not to have to get into control arms or sye. This is the setup I plan on going with. Is there anything I’m missing or anything you would change and why?
DPG off-road ultimate kit:

• 4-OME Sport Series Shocks
• 4-OME Coil Springs (HD springs)
• JKS “Quicker” Disconnects
• JKS 1.25″ Body Lift
• Brown dog mml
• JKS Adj. Track bar (front) JKS Adj. Trackbar (rear)
• DPG 2″ Extended Bump stops (Front & rear)
• JKS Adj Rear Swaybar End Links

ZJ steering

4:11 gears

Truetrac in rear

33x12.5r15 bfg ko2s

15x10 Micky Thompson classics

What I'd change on your list:
Black Magic body lift (made from material that won't compress)

Cheaper simple aluminum MML if your factory MM rubber is still good. If you stick with Brown Dog, make sure you go with rubber over polyurethane.

4.56 or 4.88 gears

15x8 wheels if you are going with 33x12.5, but might want to consider 33x10.5 on a 6-7" wide wheel, but 8" would still be ok with 33x10.5

I would also recommend looking seriously at Revolution Gear and Axle Super 35 upgrade, especially if there is ever a chance you will end up on 35s. I say this because I built my Jeep for 33s, but they were on for less than a year before I decided to go to 35s. I'm glad part of my build was an S35 upgrade. S35 does force you to go to some sort of locker though because it upgrades axle shafts from 27 spline to 30 spline and there are no 30 spline non-locker carriers available for Dana 35.

 

[Murf926]

That is similar to our build . OME springs , two inch bump stops , one inch spacer on front to level. Our front springs have been on there for eleven years and now we added a winch so the springs were sagging a little .
Also running 4.88 gears with Trutracs front and rear .
Tires are 33.1 inches tall and almost 10 inches wide on 6 inch wide wheels . 255/85r16

Not running a body lift .

View attachment 572974

I love the old school look of your wheels.

 

[OldBuzzard]

The 4:10 gears should be fine with your 32RH 3-speed auto. GrimmJeeper shows 2922 RPM at 70 MPH. No need for 4.56 or 4.88.

4" lift + 1.25" body lift is more than you need for 33s.

 

[Wsutherlin]

The 4:10 gears should be fine with your 32RH 3-speed auto. GrimmJeeper shows 2922 RPM at 70 MPH. No need for 4.56 or 4.88.

4" lift + 1.25" body lift is more than you need for 33s.

I agree on gears. With the ome lift + 1.25 body lift it would total around 3.75 inches of lift.

 

[Danarch]

Looks like a good build. Here is a picture of mine with a 3” BDS suspension lift on 33 x 10.5 for reference. At flex if I had 12.5 the tires would hit the rubber fender flares. Plus I think the rubicon flares a slightly wider.

 

[Rickyd]

I like the 10” wheels for looks and don’t plan on ever needing to air down much. Is there any other reason to go with 8s besides airing down?

They will put the contact patch of the tire further out.what that will do is wear the balljoints and bearings a bit faster and give outside forces more leverage over the steering.

Things like road crown and grooves in the highway will pull you around more.you'll be correcting more to keep straight.Hitting bumps and rocks offroad will be more likely to try to take the steering wheel out of your hands.

 

[EWatauga]

I did the exact same lift from DPG a couple years ago. It's a great setup for 33's, however I replaced the OME shocks with RS5000X's about a year ago and the difference is a substantially better ride. If you can do the kit and not get the OME shocks which cost about 2x the Rancho's and then go with the 5000X's you will be happier.

FYI I added about a 1.25" coil spacer in the front and still sit about 1" lower in the front than the back on the medium rate springs.

 

[bobthetj03]

I'm certainly no expert, but a 10" wide wheel, which will likely have 3.75" of back space, seems like a lot of wheel to be sticking out there. You're gonna get a lot of mud slinging on the side of the jeep. Be sure to keep your window rolled up, lol!
I'm running OME springs and used to run the 1st gen OME shocks. When OME switched to the sport shock, I've heard complaints that they were stiffer than the 1st gen, so I went with the Ranchos.
Even with a 2" spring lift, you stiff may encounter vibes. The MML will surely help with that.

 

[deadbeat son]

The 4:10 gears should be fine with your 32RH 3-speed auto. GrimmJeeper shows 2922 RPM at 70 MPH. No need for 4.56 or 4.88.

4" lift + 1.25" body lift is more than you need for 33s.

I think he was saying a quantity of 4 shocks and 4 springs, not 4" shocks and 4" springs.

@Wsutherlin - As to everyone saying the OME shocks are stiff, there are two different valving options available. Most don't realize that and haven't tried the softer option, they are just repeating hearsay and have no direct experience. In my experience, the softer valved OME shocks are too soft and fail to adequately control the body pitching and rolling when off road, but they're nice and comfy on the street / highway, likely the same as the Rancho 5000X. However, the OME do have better dimensions and can offer better travel bias than the Ranchos.

I'm running OME springs and shocks, Black Magic Brakes body lift, a JKS 1" motor mount lift, 1" front bump stop extensions, 1" front shock spacers, and 1.5" rear bump stop extensions with stock track bars and an OME rear track bar relocation bracket to adequately clear 33x10.5s on 15x7 wheels with 4.25" backspacing to maintain proper steering and handling aspects of the Jeep.

 

[The4bangertj]

My jeep is running 33x12.5r15 with 10in wide with 3.65in back spacing. There is a lot sticking out. So much so I can’t even slightly pass for fender laws. Mud will get flung everywhere but you’ll never rub on anything metal. You will rub on fender flares at stock height because they stick out so far. I highlined the stock fenders to not rub so much but different flares would have solved that issue as well.

 

[Wsutherlin]

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