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From what I've seen some people noticed a difference and others didn't. I have one that I'm not going to use but mine was for a 4 cyl and I don't know what the difference is between the two versions.
On mine my shaft was barely rubbing the bottom of the hole in the tub.
I won't actually know if it made a difference since I didn't drive it without it after doing the body lift. But figured rubbing on the fender can't help so I'm thinking it is probably a good thing even if really minor. The steering shafts aren't cheap
 
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From what I've seen some people noticed a difference and others didn't. I have one that I'm not going to use but mine was for a 4 cyl and I don't know what the difference is between the two versions.
On mine my shaft was barely rubbing the bottom of the hole in the tub.
I've got one for the LS swap. Not sure if I need it but they had a sale.
 
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Okay team. I'm working on rear axle. After setting my pinion angle with the upper arms without touching lowers, my tires seem like they're biased pretty far back in the fender well and will touch in the rear pretty early. I need to shorten the lowers so it is more centered right? How do I pull the axle forward when all the control arms are unbolted?

pic, this rear bias of the tire is what I'm talking about. That's fixable by shortening arms right? Maybe I'm overthinking it

1649554482594.png
 
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Okay team. I'm working on rear axle. After setting my pinion angle with the upper arms without touching lowers, my tires seem like they're biased pretty far back in the fender well and will touch in the rear pretty early. I need to shorten the lowers so it is more centered right? How do I pull the axle forward when all the control arms are unbolted?

pic, this rear bias of the tire is what I'm talking about. That's fixable by shortening arms right? Maybe I'm overthinking it

View attachment 321737
Cycle the axle without springs to see if the axle is too far back.
 
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I already knew

At least I wasn't the first and probably not the last lmao whatever
Finding those lines at the auto parts stores was damn near impossible, but I didn't try napa. I think it's 5/16" inverted flare to 10mm/3/8" banjo - but don't quote me on that.
 
Finding those lines at the auto parts stores was damn near impossible, but I didn't try napa. I think it's 5/16" inverted flare to 10mm/3/8" banjo - but don't quote me on that.
I just bought a set of preformed ones honestly I don't wanna have to deal with a bunch more work
 
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Did I mount my track bar upside down? I thought I read somewhere it was designed to specifically work with the savvy GTS but they are interfering
Edit: currie TB with the relocation bracket
16496272262262176335631543306465.jpg
 
The Currie relocation bracket, too?
Yes!
When lifting from the diff it hits the edge of the skid which I could probably trim but lifting from driver side tire (which is probably more realistic to happen off-road) it hits the bolt and nut
 
Yes!
When lifting from the diff it hits the edge of the skid which I could probably trim but lifting from driver side tire (which is probably more realistic to happen off-road) it hits the bolt and nut
Angled bracket for the DC driveshaft?
 
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The Currie relocation bracket, too?
Yes!
When lifting from the diff it hits the edge of the skid which I could probably trim but lifting from driver side tire (which is probably more realistic to happen off-road) it hits the bolt and nut
The Currie relocation bracket, too? Angled or straight?
Angled
16496281582088355087137657554366.jpg
 
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