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What brand?

Both uppers and lowers move the axle and rotate the pinion. You can't change one without affecting the other.
Core4x4

And yeahh but to move the axle forward I move it where I want it, set the lowers, then adjust uppers to get the pinion where I want it right? So much stuff to do in the right order lol
 
Core4x4

And yeahh but to move the axle forward I move it where I want it, set the lowers, then adjust uppers to get the pinion where I want it right? So much stuff to do in the right order lol
There is a walkthrough thread in the how to section. When I do it, I start at ride height, guess at the front/back, set the pinion, bring the axle up to fully compressed shocks to check clearances and reposition the front/back to come back to ride height to fix the pinion, repeat until good. It takes a few rounds to get there.
 
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Can the GTS move a little? There's slots on the front holes, but I don't remember with the back ones and can't run look at mine, which might buy you 1/4-1/2" too.
 
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Can the GTS move a little? There's slots on the front holes, but I don't remember with the back ones and can't run look at mine, which might buy you 1/4-1/2" too.
It can a little but I already pushed it as far back as it'll go today. The track bar is hitting the bolt itself unfortunately so I think moving the axle is my best bet
 
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Yes!
When lifting from the diff it hits the edge of the skid which I could probably trim but lifting from driver side tire (which is probably more realistic to happen off-road) it hits the bolt and nut

AngledView attachment 321892

If you turned the bolt around so that the head of the bolt was facing the skid would it it clear then? And maybe use a button head bolt?
 
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If you turned the bolt around so that the head of the bolt was facing the skid would it it clear then? And maybe use a button head bolt?
I'm not exactly sure how that bolt is mounted into the crossmember. I'll try to look at it closer tomorrow, that is a good idea too. Although I think it'd probably still hit it eventually... this happens with ~3" of exposed shock shaft left on driver side so it's really in the way where the axle is right now
 
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I know I had a hard crash with my JKS rear trackbar, angled bracket, and Savvy skid. If moving the axle doesn't get it, Bend the track bar, trim the flange, or move the mounting point.
What would you use to bend the track bar?
 
20 ton press
Oof okay don't have one of those. Hopefully I can move the axle forward enough... It looks like I should be able to pull it forward enough to just need to trim the flange possibly, hoping it will angle away from the cross member from there I'm not sure how much I want to trim that
 
Oof okay don't have one of those. Hopefully I can move the axle forward enough... It looks like I should be able to pull it forward enough to just need to trim the flange possibly, hoping it will angle away from the cross member from there I'm not sure how much I want to trim that
You know people that do, so let me know if it becomes necessary.
 
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Here is what I was workin with...

1649659589136.png


and my solution...because I didn't have a press either...

1649659655321.png


I've since had to modify this. This picture only shows the bracket tacked in. When I fully welded it, the OEM bracket where the trackbar used to mount is pretty thin and it tore. I basically had to rebuild the whole mount and I used pieces and parts of the JKS angled bracket and a Currie Reinforcement bracket that goes to the axle...

1649659920915.png


1649659934168.png


I ended up with plenty of clearance though

1649660183624.png
 
You know people that do, so let me know if it becomes necessary.
Thank you!

Here is what I was workin with...

View attachment 321994

and my solution...because I didn't have a press either...

View attachment 321996

I've since had to modify this. This picture only shows the bracket tacked in. When I fully welded it, the OEM bracket where the trackbar used to mount is pretty thin and it tore. I basically had to rebuild the whole mount and I used pieces and parts of the JKS angled bracket and a Currie Reinforcement bracket that goes to the axle...

View attachment 321997

View attachment 321998

I ended up with plenty of clearance though

View attachment 322000
Wow good work! I really hope it doesn't come to that lol that is way beyond my skill and equipment level. That's the JKS track bar?
 
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Today I pulled the axle farther forward and also flipped the bolts on the GTS crossmember mount for more clearance. Unfortunately I lost one of the carriage bolts forever inside the crossmember so I used a thin bolt, it has a similar profile to the carriage bolt and I put it where there was less interference. Thanks @jjvw and @Wildman for the tips. Team work makes the dream work!

So here's how it looks at contact now...
1649732305861.png

and here's where the axle is (driver's side) when it makes contact:
1649732332977.png

It's definitely a lot better. I haven't put the tire on yet to see how it all fits together but it's progress.

Some thoughts:

It almost seems like the compressed coil will be somewhere around that distance that's left, I do wonder how much of the remaining travel will even be left at that high of a stuff. Probably doesn't effect where my bumpstop will be though.

On a semi-related note, I've been wondering why I'm coming across these issues. I'm thinking it might be because I have a tummy tuck with only 2" of lift? Maybe a compressed 4" coil doesn't allow the trackbar to go that high?

I also see why outboarding is important more now, the shock really seems to be in a much worse position than the front at the stock position. It really seems like I have a lot of shock uptravel left, but as the axle goes higher it arcs forward so it doesn't really "use up" the distance as well as it does up front
 
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Some more progress today. I adjusted my shifter cable since it seemed like it was barely engaging 4LO. Now there is "slack" past 2hi and 4LO so I am feeling good about it staying in gear now.

Removing all the old brake lines, 3/4 of the fittings went easy and the last rounded off really bad even with a 6point socket. Drilled a hole through it jammed a punch through it and got it out. So ready for new pre-formed lines and bleeding.

Started work on replacing the sport bar speakers too. I was hoping to just remove the bar and replace them outside the jeep but can't get to the bolts with the top on. I unzipped the fabric cover and am working on it like that. Really hoping I didn't screw myself and I can get the cover back together but I guess we'll see soon enough
 
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