All things welding

[AirborneTexasRanger]

@AirborneTexasRanger I see that they make a large commercial application for a pipe roller for welding, but do you know of any for small work? I'm going to be welding bungs into new control arms and thought it would be nice to have the DOM on rollers with a small motor turning the rollers effectively rotating the pipe while I weld. A small controller could adjust the speed until it is dialed in perfectly.

I think my only concern would be trying to weld it all in one go. I've read plenty of stories where people didn't have issues but more where they have. @mrblaine has stated on other threads that you WILL have to clean the threads regardless. I have taps to chase the threads after, but are there any other concerns with the idea?

There are small rollers but they typically start around $500 - $600. You could use non swivel casters & manually roll it if you're comfortable welding with one hand. You could clamp the ground directly to the tube & let it spin or use a braided ground strap. I made my own out of some copper wire & lugs on the ends.

 

[hosejockey61]

@AirborneTexasRanger

I'm having a struggle with my machine that I've never had before.

I have a Miller 211 autoset. I use C25 gas. Good ground clamp. I have checked all connections.

I have been getting some welds that will start fine and then get a very inconsistent sound and the weld goes to shit. As I'm welding, you can see almost like a blue flame coming from the nozzle. I've cleaned everything, new tip, and this still happens.

Please tell me I'm missing something easy.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

@AirborneTexasRanger

I'm having a struggle with my machine that I've never had before.

I have a Miller 211 autoset. I use C25 gas. Good ground clamp. I have checked all connections.

I have been getting some welds that will start fine and then get a very inconsistent sound and the weld goes to shit. As I'm welding, you can see almost like a blue flame coming from the nozzle. I've cleaned everything, new tip, and this still happens.

Please tell me I'm missing something easy.

Blue flame means it's oxidizing somewhere. Check all your gas connections & hoses for leaks using soapy water in a spray bottle. Do you have a picture of the bad weld?

 

[NskLJ]

@AirborneTexasRanger

I'm having a struggle with my machine that I've never had before.

I have a Miller 211 autoset. I use C25 gas. Good ground clamp. I have checked all connections.

I have been getting some welds that will start fine and then get a very inconsistent sound and the weld goes to shit. As I'm welding, you can see almost like a blue flame coming from the nozzle. I've cleaned everything, new tip, and this still happens.

Please tell me I'm missing something easy.

Did it start when you got the new bottle of C25? You could have bad gas.

 

[hosejockey61]

Blue flame means it's oxidizing somewhere. Check all your gas connections & hoses for leaks using soapy water in a spray bottle. Do you have a picture of the bad weld?

No picture, I just ground them down. A couple had a little bit of porosity but not all of them. It was really weird.

I welded up some other stuff after and didn't have any issues. If it happens again I'll let you know and take pictures as well. Thanks for the info.

 

[hosejockey61]

Did it start when you got the new bottle of C25? You could have bad gas.

No, more than halfway through my current bottle. I did have bad gas the other day, but it was the Mexican food

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

No picture, I just ground them down. A couple had a little bit of porosity but not all of them. It was really weird.

I welded up some other stuff after and didn't have any issues. If it happens again I'll let you know and take pictures as well. Thanks for the info.

I could also have been caused by contamination on/in the metal. Porosity from contamination looks different than porosity from shielding gas issues.

 

[hosejockey61]

I could also have been caused by contamination on/in the metal. Porosity from contamination looks different than porosity from shielding gas issues.

All shiny metal. I always make sure of that.

 

[NskLJ]

No, more than halfway through my current bottle. I did have bad gas the other day, but it was the Mexican food

I figured you may have been blowing the shielding gas away from the weld.

 

[hosejockey61]

Blue flame means it's oxidizing somewhere. Check all your gas connections & hoses for leaks using soapy water in a spray bottle. Do you have a picture of the bad weld?

So I thought it was my gas fitting to my tank as I had a slight leak there. Fixed it and no go.

Welding has been hit and miss enough to drive me crazy. I turned the gas up to help overcome the issue. Still intermittent.

Then I remember changing nozzles out a little while back. After struggling, I went through everything with a fine tooth comb. I remember comparing nozzles and they are the same length. What I didn't realize until after I changed it out, is that they have different shoulder heights.

I changed over to the new nozzle that is even with the tip and no more problems. My guess is that it concentrates gas flow where it needs to go. I'm also guessing the other might be for use with flux core wire?

Any thoughts on any of this?

 

[sab]

Well, that's a weird one. I have an older Millermatic 250MP, and it's very hard to find nozzles for its gun. I have a bunch I bought off eBay. On that gun, the contact tip's end is up inside the nozzle, probably about 1/8" inside the end of the nozzle, just the opposite of the top photo you posted. I'm curious what AirborneTexasRanger has to say about you situation...

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

Glad you got everything running smoothly again. I would not have guessed that was the cause but it's good to know.
The contact tip should be flush or recessed no more than ⅛". The reason is to provide stable flow of the shielding gas. Having the contact tip protruding can cause turbulence. Having the flow rate too high also causes turbulence. Turbulence will mix the atmosphere in with the shielding gas, not good.
Most contact tips use the same thread size so double check the length when you buy them. Nozzles also have different lengths & shapes for different applications.

That's a nice looking weld BTW.

 

[hosejockey61]

That's a nice looking weld BTW.

For downhill

 

[TRevs]

I’ve been thinking about learning to weld for awhile, as the little projects pile up. I found a deal nearby on a Lincoln weld pak 100, which seems like a good beginner machine, especially since my projects are all thin steel.

It’s an older machine, only 120v, but lightly used and clean. The deal included the weld cart, a tank of C25, gloves and a nice hood. I’ve been reading a lot about MIG welding in the last two weeks and just getting it set up correctly. He had plain wire in the spool but the electrode polarity was set up for flux core. The roller was set for larger wire but it was loaded with 0.025. I’ve practiced a little and it seems to work as it should.

This thread has been helpful; thanks to @AirborneTexasRanger

My current question is what is a good tool to grind down the weld in small spaces? I have an electric angle grinder that is way too big, and a rotary tool. Are there good dremel bits for this?

 

[Dev]

I’ve been thinking about learning to weld for awhile, as the little projects pile up. I found a deal nearby on a Lincoln weld pak 100, which seems like a good beginner machine, especially since my projects are all thin steel.

View attachment 606176

View attachment 606177

It’s an older machine, only 120v, but lightly used and clean. The deal included the weld cart, a tank of C25, gloves and a nice hood. I’ve been reading a lot about MIG welding in the last two weeks and just getting it set up correctly. He had plain wire in the spool but the electrode polarity was set up for flux core. The roller was set for larger wire but it was loaded with 0.025. I’ve practiced a little and it seems to work as it should.

This thread has been helpful; thanks to @AirborneTexasRanger

My current question is what is a good tool to grind down the weld in small spaces? I have an electric angle grinder that is way too big, and a rotary tool. Are there good dremel bits for this?

Pneumatic die grinder with a flap disk or sanding disk is what you want.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

I’ve been thinking about learning to weld for awhile, as the little projects pile up. I found a deal nearby on a Lincoln weld pak 100, which seems like a good beginner machine, especially since my projects are all thin steel.

View attachment 606176

View attachment 606177

It’s an older machine, only 120v, but lightly used and clean. The deal included the weld cart, a tank of C25, gloves and a nice hood. I’ve been reading a lot about MIG welding in the last two weeks and just getting it set up correctly. He had plain wire in the spool but the electrode polarity was set up for flux core. The roller was set for larger wire but it was loaded with 0.025. I’ve practiced a little and it seems to work as it should.

This thread has been helpful; thanks to @AirborneTexasRanger

My current question is what is a good tool to grind down the weld in small spaces? I have an electric angle grinder that is way too big, and a rotary tool. Are there good dremel bits for this?

Sounds like you got a good deal, Lincoln makes some really good equipment. As for grinding in small spaces, Milwaukee makes 2 different grinders that are the best especially if they have a variable speed option. A Dremel would be my last choice.

 

[jjvw]

Sounds like you got a good deal, Lincoln makes some really good equipment. As for grinding in small spaces, Milwaukee makes 2 different grinders that are the best especially if they have a variable speed option. A Dremel would be my last choice.

View attachment 606183

There is a newly released M12 right angle die grinder that claims to be more powerful than this one.

 

[AirborneTexasRanger]

There is a newly released M12 right angle die grinder that claims to be more powerful than this one.

I'm very impressed with the small Milwaukee grinders. We use them at work & they're surprisingly precise but also durable.

 

[TRevs]

I just need some small diameter bit/disc that can get in some small spaces around the spare tire carrier and inside the door panels.

 

[lBasket]

I just need some small diameter bit/disc that can get in some small spaces around the spare tire carrier and inside the door panels.

View attachment 606198

There are the carbide bits and then stone bits you can look into for little corners, I think