Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

All things welding

For grounding, I'm thinking a strap that rotates around the pipe similar to a clock spring. 🤷

When I did it manually, I used aluminum rollers, with steel axles, welded to the fab table and then a magnetic ground to the fab table. Simple, and worked very well.
 
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For grounding, I'm thinking a strap that rotates around the pipe similar to a clock spring. 🤷

I know why you are welding bungs, the problem with welding bungs is there is only one tiny advantage, you can do it yourself. You don't save any money, you wind up with a heavier arm, and the strength is less than it can be with threaded aluminum.

A rotator makes little economical sense unless you are going to use it for lots of other things.

I'm also not a fan of mig welded bungs. You need more penetration and more heat than you can do in the steep learning curve it takes to weld round joints on a rotator.
 
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@AirborneTexasRanger I see that they make a large commercial application for a pipe roller for welding, but do you know of any for small work? I'm going to be welding bungs into new control arms and thought it would be nice to have the DOM on rollers with a small motor turning the rollers effectively rotating the pipe while I weld. A small controller could adjust the speed until it is dialed in perfectly.

I think my only concern would be trying to weld it all in one go. I've read plenty of stories where people didn't have issues but more where they have. @mrblaine has stated on other threads that you WILL have to clean the threads regardless. I have taps to chase the threads after, but are there any other concerns with the idea?

Here's what I was thinking for the rollers. A series of plates with holes in them and some wheels.

1734058728046.png


Need two of these mounted a distance from each other

1734059307786.png
 
I know why you are welding bungs, the problem with welding bungs is there is only one tiny advantage, you can do it yourself. You don't save any money, you wind up with a heavier arm, and the strength is less than it can be with threaded aluminum.

A rotator makes little economical sense unless you are going to use it for lots of other things.

I'm also not a fan of mig welded bungs. You need more penetration and more heat than you can do in the steep learning curve it takes to weld round joints on a rotator.

The savings of the DOM vs. aluminum was right about $600. With that being said, I couldn't make these for what they sell them for if they sold them separately. I was reading a post you had on a different site where you thought they might have offered them in DOM but it obviously never happened.
 
The savings of the DOM vs. aluminum was right about $600. With that being said, I couldn't make these for what they sell them for if they sold them separately. I was reading a post you had on a different site where you thought they might have offered them in DOM but it obviously never happened.

Minor point of clarification. If you weld the bungs to the DOM tubing with enough heat and penetration to make it a sound weld, THEN you will need taps to clean up the threads.
 
Here's what I was thinking for the rollers. A series of plates with holes in them and some wheels.

View attachment 578917

Need two of these mounted a distance from each other

View attachment 578918

Two words for you, Ryan: Patent Infringement!!!

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (8).JPG


🙂

This is the setup I use. A foot switch controlling the welder, grounded to the fab table. The roller assembly is welded to the fab table.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (23).JPG


I guess I need to develop a more sophisticated mount for the torch though....

Works well for beveling as well:

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (7).JPG
 
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Two words for you, Ryan: Patent Infringement!!!


View attachment 578958

🙂

This is the setup I use. A foot switch controlling the welder, grounded to the fab table. The roller assembly is welded to the fab table.

View attachment 578956

I guess I need to develop a more sophisticated mount for the torch though....

Works well for beveling as well:

View attachment 578959

I made enough changes I should be OK. I have zero desire to ever build my own arms, so you don't have to worry.
 
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I have zero desire to ever build my own arms.

I think that's my problem. I HAVE a strong desire to build things like that and it tends to cloud my mind on the reality of which is best. I keep trying to make my Jeep lighter, yet here I am accepting the fact that I want to use the option that does the opposite. I am rethinking the DOM arms and might just pull the trigger for aluminum.

I am so excited yet confused at the same time. I must be going through puberty again...
 
Minor point of clarification. If you weld the bungs to the DOM tubing with enough heat and penetration to make it a sound weld, THEN you will need taps to clean up the threads.

That's why I use JB weld. Keeps the threads perfect.
j/k

If you had the volume demand to justify the equipment this would be a good candidate for friction welding.
 
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If you had the volume demand to justify the equipment this would be a good candidate for friction welding.
100% true. And 100% impractical for all but very high production volumes. Friction welding is rare, but works well in the right situations.
 
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I think the only real word example of this I've seen is trailer hub to spindle with bad/dry bearing:ROFLMAO:
There are many examples of involuntary friction welding in the automotive world. If you've ever accidentally put a window in your engine block, there's a good chance friction welding was involved... :)
 
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@AirborneTexasRanger I see that they make a large commercial application for a pipe roller for welding, but do you know of any for small work? I'm going to be welding bungs into new control arms and thought it would be nice to have the DOM on rollers with a small motor turning the rollers effectively rotating the pipe while I weld. A small controller could adjust the speed until it is dialed in perfectly.

I think my only concern would be trying to weld it all in one go. I've read plenty of stories where people didn't have issues but more where they have. @mrblaine has stated on other threads that you WILL have to clean the threads regardless. I have taps to chase the threads after, but are there any other concerns with the idea?

There are small rollers available but typically start out at $500-600. You might be able to make your own or use some casters to make a manual roller if you're comfortable welding with one hand.

INTSUPERMAI Pipe Tank Welding Linkage Roller Rotary Welding Rolls Positioner 2200 LB Loading Capacity for 50-600mm Diameter Welding Equipment Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PH59WF2?tag=wranglerorg-20

The trick is going to be getting a good ground. I cut up some old ground cable, braided it then put some copper lugs on the ends. Then I clamp the ground to that. I'll get a picture when I get home.

I've seen people use steel wheels then clamp the ground to the base. This usually leaves arc strikes all over which are not good.
 
That one I had to look up. Pretty cool.
I think the only real word example of this I've seen is trailer hub to spindle with bad/dry bearing:ROFLMAO:
Only because you likely didn't know what you were looking at. All TJ rear Dana 44's starting about 03 or so, maybe a year or 2 earlier have the housing ends friction welded to the tubes. If you look where the tube goes from straight to just about an inch before the upset starts for the seal and bearing bore, the two rolled rings there are friction welds.
1734113060010.png
 
Only because you likely didn't know what you were looking at. All TJ rear Dana 44's starting about 03 or so, maybe a year or 2 earlier have the housing ends friction welded to the tubes. If you look where the tube goes from straight to just about an inch before the upset starts for the seal and bearing bore, the two rolled rings there are friction welds.
View attachment 578991

You’re right. It was right in front of me:
IMG_7826.jpeg
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts