Adams SYE + DC driveshaft kit vs. Tom Woods SYE & DC driveshaft?

[MikekiM]

Both Tom Woods & Adams offer the Advanced Adapters Slip Yoke Eliminator for the NP231.

Tom Woods:
AA SYE = $285
Woods DC Rear DS = $399

Adams:
AA SYE & Adams DC Rear DS = $579

Pros & Cons? Other suggestions?

Adams also offers a few other SYE kits from TeraFlex and Rough Trails.. Pros and cons to these?

 

[hear]

Tom Adams is well respected and comes here from time to time. I've bought several Adams driveshafts (mainly because BleepinJeep has a coupon for them) and have had zero complaints.

You won't go wrong with either.

 

[lBasket]

The JB conversions one is the shortest one out there I think

 

[Duck Doctor]

Agree on going with JB conversions SS SYE. Install the SYE, take measurements, then order the driveshaft. I purchased from both parties and prefer Adams.

 

[macleanflood]

I wish I had gone shorter.

-Mac

 

[bbaldwin237]

I have the Teraflex mega short SYE and Adam's DS. I had an issue with the SYE and Teraflex sent me an entire replacement kit. Still have a noise that I think is the SYE but may also be the transmission. No complaints with the DS. Took a bit of a hit on a rock a week or two ago and held up fine.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

My experiences with both jb conversions and Tom woods is such that I have no reason to try anyone else.

 

[cliffish]

Both Tom Woods & Adams offer the Advanced Adapters Slip Yoke Eliminator for the NP231.

Tom Woods:
AA SYE = $285
Woods DC Rear DS = $399

Adams:
AA SYE & Adams DC Rear DS = $579

Pros & Cons? Other suggestions?

Adams also offers a few other SYE kits from TeraFlex and Rough Trails.. Pros and cons to these?

So I guess you figured out the transmission clicking issue you were having?

 

[06TJ35's]

Tom Adams is well respected and comes here from time to time. I've bought several Adams driveshafts (mainly because BleepinJeep has a coupon for them) and have had zero complaints.

You won't go wrong with either.

What’s the coupon ? I need a front drive shaft

 

[machoheadgames]

I have had two double cardan shafts from Adam’s and one stock style shaft from TW. The first shaft from Adam’s had a slight buzz of vibration from not being balanced correctly. I got a replacement for that and the second one was smooth as could be. The second one was built a bit long but that was inconsequential.

These days my jeep is in an entirely different phase than it used to be and is back to stock. I couldn’t find a good factory shaft in the correct length, so I bought one from TW. Unfortunately it vibrated at higher speeds and also leaked out of the cap at the u-joint end of the slip yoke. It was the older non sealed t-case output style so fluid reaches the slip and it leaked out the cap at the end. It was not a Spicer slip yoke used on the shaft. I figure maybe Crown or Omix or similar (it had no markings). The shaft itself looked good and I figure the vibrations were just a slight imbalance issue that probably could have been remedied easily. I ended up finding a good condition stock shaft right after receiving the TW, so I tried that and vibes were back to normal, which allowed me to simply return the TW shaft. Had I not found that OEM shaft, I would have pursued a rebalance job on the TW. I am running 4.10’s and 215/75 tires so driveline speeds are a bit high, but not any higher than a stock 4 cylinder would have been. My guess is the factory spins them faster than most of the aftermarket world does, and you kinda just have to hope it doesn’t matter.

I’d still give either brand a chance if needed. However, I need a front double cardan shaft now and I am looking to try out Denny’s Driveshafts on this round. They can spin them up to 10k rpm and will ask about your gears, tires etc and will spin them beyond what you need to ensure they should be perfect for any speed throughout your range. So I would probably default to Dennys for a double cardan rear as well. If that didn’t pan out to be a good result then I’d go back to the other two at likely a 50/50 that would probably ultimately be determined by price.

I’d go with JB Conversions for SYE, whether you need the super short or the regular. They just seem to be the best quality. I’ve had a terrible Rugged Ridge that leaked immediately at the output seal and had no oil pump support/alignment tabs on the tail housing, which lead to a broken oil pump. I have also had buddies with AA SYEs which contributed to vibration due to runout. JB seems to be the best choice for overall quality, even if his shipping prices are absurd.

 

[MikekiM]

Thank you all..
I now know how much I don't know about the SYE/DC DS process.

I'll check out JB Conversions as well.
I saw Short and Ultra Short options but have no idea, yet, as to the implications of each, other than the obvious.

@macleanflood.. Mac, why do you wish you went shorter? What are you feeling that isn't right?

...Install the SYE, take measurements, then order the driveshaft.

Does this conversion have to be a two step process? It's my DD and I'd like to reduce downtime. One of the sites I linked to shows taking measurements with the stock setup..

So I guess you figured out the transmission clicking issue you were having?

I did. I took the Jeep to the shop I originally wanted to do the AX15 conversion. He broke it down and found the problem in two minutes. If I am being candid, once the thing was apart I was able to see the problem in two minutes. Here' is my updated post.

The shop is Evans 4x4 in Deer Park. He's a one man show. Does exclusively Jeeps. Evan was scheduling two weeks out when the NV3550 went back in November and the gear box was already out so I continued with the local shop. I I'll continue to use them for inspections and easy stuff but anything more complex is going to Evan.

I’d go with JB Conversions for SYE, whether you need the super short or the regular. They just seem to be the best quality. I’ve had a terrible Rugged Ridge that leaked immediately at the output seal and had no oil pump support/alignment tabs on the tail housing, which lead to a broken oil pump. I have also had buddies with AA SYEs which contributed to vibration due to runout. JB seems to be the best choice for overall quality, even if his shipping prices are absurd.

Thank you. You were a huge help with the AX15 conversion.. I appreciate your input.

 

[macleanflood]

@macleanflood.. Mac, why do you wish you went shorter? What are you feeling that isn't right?

I put a regular sized SYE... can't recall the brand...that allowed me to get rid of my skid plate spacers. But I wasn't thinking that I'd eventually do a tummy tuck. And a longer shaft would help with drive line angles although I don't think I currently have issues.

At this point my 231J is dripping a tiny amount of oil... despite a month of taking it apart multiple times and replacing the front case half.

I've burned up my CC...need to pay for the parts I have bought...

But at this point I haven't spotted a decent 231J anywhere in the PNW so I'm considering a Colossus or Atlas. But that's a ways off if ever.

-Mac

 

[mrblaine]

Both Tom Woods & Adams offer the Advanced Adapters Slip Yoke Eliminator for the NP231.

Tom Woods:
AA SYE = $285
Woods DC Rear DS = $399

Adams:
AA SYE & Adams DC Rear DS = $579

Pros & Cons? Other suggestions?

Adams also offers a few other SYE kits from TeraFlex and Rough Trails.. Pros and cons to these?

Not for nothing, but Tom and crew do help out with ROTM goodies.

 

[MikekiM]

I put a regular sized SYE... can't recall the brand...that allowed me to get rid of my skid plate spacers. But I wasn't thinking that I'd eventually do a tummy tuck. And a longer shaft would help with drive line angles although I don't think I currently have issues.

At this point my 231J is dripping a tiny amount of oil... despite a month of taking it apart multiple times and replacing the front case half.

I've burned up my CC...need to pay for the parts I have bought...

But at this point I haven't spotted a decent 231J anywhere in the PNW so I'm considering a Colossus or Atlas. But that's a ways off if ever.

-Mac

Got it. Getting rid of the spacers and the stock skid plate in favor of something a little beefier our top priorities.

No plans for a tummy tuck.

Not for nothing, but Tom and crew do help out with ROTM goodies.

That’s one of the reasons the first place I went was Tom Woods.

 

[macleanflood]

Got it. Getting rid of the spacers and the stock skid plate in favor of something a little beefier our top priorities.

I replaced my stock skid plate with a UCF high clearance. So not flat belly but high enough to retain the factory transmission mount. A Black Magic Brakes body lift and MML gave me more tire clearance and room to push things up.

-Mac

 

[machoheadgames]

Thank you all..
I now know how much I don't know about the SYE/DC DS process.

I'll check out JB Conversions as well.
I saw Short and Ultra Short options but have no idea, yet, as to the implications of each, other than the obvious.

What are your future plans that are leading to you doing a DC shaft & SYE? The difference between the normal and the super short SYEs is the length. Super short SYEs shorten the output of the transfer case by about 3 more inches over a normal SYE, which allows for a longer driveshaft and slightly better driveline angles, especially as you lift higher or tummy tuck or anything else that affects the vertical relationship between the transfer case output and rear axle pinion.

There are pros and cons to either kit. The pro to the super short is the length, the con is you get stuck with a tone ring speed sensor which deletes the speedo gear and requires a calibrator to make speedo adjustments. That in and of itself is not a bad thing, calibrators are nice and useful for dialing speed calibration in to how you want it. However, it seems like many people have needed replacement speed sensors from the ones in the kit going bad eventually, and those don't seem all that available. I personally would rather keep the speedo gear setup which I have ultimately found to be the most reliable. So again that brings me to my question of what you're doing with the Jeep that is leading to this change. If you have a medium lift height and no crazy plans for tucking, the standard kit in my mind is a bit more desirable and will still adequately do the job.

 

[mrblaine]

That’s one of the reasons the first place I went was Tom Woods.

I use them because they are excellent, fast, reasonably priced, and of the 6 or 7 dozen or so I've purchased over the years, almost none have had an issue and the scant few that did, were dealt with quickly with no bullshit.

 

[MikekiM]

What are your future plans that are leading to you doing a DC shaft & SYE? The difference between the normal and the super short SYEs is the length. Super short SYEs shorten the output of the transfer case by about 3 more inches over a normal SYE, which allows for a longer driveshaft and slightly better driveline angles, especially as you lift higher or tummy tuck or anything else that affects the vertical relationship between the transfer case output and rear axle pinion.

There are pros and cons to either kit. The pro to the super short is the length, the con is you get stuck with a tone ring speed sensor which deletes the speedo gear and requires a calibrator to make speedo adjustments. That in and of itself is not a bad thing, calibrators are nice and useful for dialing speed calibration in to how you want it. However, it seems like many people have needed replacement speed sensors from the ones in the kit going bad eventually, and those don't seem all that available. I personally would rather keep the speedo gear setup which I have ultimately found to be the most reliable. So again that brings me to my question of what you're doing with the Jeep that is leading to this change. If you have a medium lift height and no crazy plans for tucking, the standard kit in my mind is a bit more desirable and will still adequately do the job.

My speedo is spot on so I'd rather not mess around with having to recalibrate it. No plans to change the lift (2.5" with a 3/4" spacer up front to level it out), no plans or need for tummy tuck, no need for BL. End goals are get rid of the skid plate spacers, recapture the clearance I lost, eliminate a slight drive line vibration from fresh CAs and replace the stamped skid plate. Haven't started searching for the skid yet, but would love to shed a few pounds and do aluminum.

Jeep gets me where others can't go and I just want to make it as capable as possible given my use. Rocky and sandy outer beach, unmaintained fire roads to camping trailheads and keep it daily driver friendly.

I use them because they are excellent, fast, reasonably priced, and of the 6 or 7 dozen or so I've purchased over the years, almost none have had an issue and the scant few that did, were dealt with quickly with no bullshit.

That speaks volumes right there. Law of large numbers for the win.
I'm not going to do the work myself. Should my shop be able to measure for the new DS with the stock setup installed? Trying to lessen down-time since it's my DD.

 

[machoheadgames]

My speedo is spot on so I'd rather not mess around with having to recalibrate it. No plans to change the lift (2.5" with a 3/4" spacer up front to level it out), no plans or need for tummy tuck, no need for BL. End goals are get rid of the skid plate spacers, recapture the clearance I lost, eliminate a slight drive line vibration from fresh CAs and replace the stamped skid plate. Haven't started searching for the skid yet, but would love to shed a few pounds and do aluminum.

Jeep gets me where others can't go and I just want to make it as capable as possible given my use. Rocky and sandy outer beach, unmaintained fire roads to camping trailheads and keep it daily driver friendly.

In that case my suggestion would be the standard SYE.

That speaks volumes right there. Law of large numbers for the win.
I'm not going to do the work myself. Should my shop be able to measure for the new DS with the stock setup installed? Trying to lessen down-time since it's my DD.

Have the shop install the SYE and then you just drive in 4WD as an effective FWD for the week or however long it takes to get your shaft in the mail. No harm done, and no vehicle down for any amount of time.

 

[MikekiM]

Have the shop install the SYE and then you just drive in 4WD as an effective FWD for the week or however long it takes to get your shaft in the mail. No harm done, and no vehicle down for any amount of time.

That makes sense..