A/C Compressor - 'While I'm in there'?

[FarFire70]

I'm planning to get my A/C running again. Replaced the engine at 122k in 2016 and refrigerant was drained at that time. A/C never worked great before then, which I suspect it was under charged. But I was always windows off and usually doorless, so it wasn't an issue and I didn't diagnose further.

I'm trying to get the A/C system working again at 156k. It hasn't had any R134a refrigerant since 122k. I have an A/C cut-off switch in the dash so it doesn't cycle the compressor when defrost/etc go on.

I have the Accumulator and A/C line with the orifice tube in hand. I also have the valve kit to replace all the valve cores, since that was recommended.

My question to the community is - Am I just foolish to think that the A/C Compressor is still good? Or do I just replace 'while I'm in there'?

With the cut-out switch and since there is no refrigerant, I don't believe the compressor has even turned in ~8 years... I know I'm asking a dumb questions but something that helps justify the

Thoughts to turn on the compressor (with no refrigerant in the lines) now to see if I get a squeal/noise/etc? Or am I just putting off the obvious?

 

[macleanflood]

Was the system sealed up or open to the atmosphere and dust?

-Mac

 

[FarFire70]

Was the system sealed up or open to the atmosphere and dust?

-Mac

Great question. Being the professional I am/was I used the Mopar approved storage location...

——

All kidding aside - During the engine replacement, the system was open for a solid 4+ months and the lines were in this position and uncovered (amateur move on my part for sure).

My research showed that an open system for that long means the most critical part to replace is the Accumulator, hence grabbing a new & sealed one already. But I only recently also saw advice on the orifice tube and the valves.

Open to ideas if more work or parts need to be inspect/checked.

 

[NskLJ]

Great question. Being the professional I am/was I used the Mopar approved storage location...

View attachment 550479

——

All kidding aside - During the engine replacement, the system was open for a solid 4+ months and the lines were in this position and uncovered (amateur move on my part for sure).

My research showed that an open system for that long means the most critical part to replace is the Accumulator, hence grabbing a new & sealed one already. But I only recently also saw advice on the orifice tube and the valves.

Open to ideas if more work or parts need to be inspect/checked.

I would rotate the compressor by hand and see how it feels. If you can put a little oil in the compressor and rotate it around to get the internals lubricated. If it’s locked up or feels very rough the compressor will need replacing. When you remove the orfice line, pull the orfice out and look for debris in it. A Lot of metal would indicate a failed compressor, sand would indicate a desiccant bag failure which would require flushing the condenser. I would also change all the o rings in the system. Add an oil charge to the accumulator, evacuate it and test the system.

 

[FarFire70]

I would rotate the compressor by hand and see how it feels. If you can put a little oil in the compressor and rotate it around to get the internals lubricated. If it’s locked up or feels very rough the compressor will need replacing. When you remove the orfice line, pull the orfice out and look for debris in it. A Lot of metal would indicate a failed compressor, sand would indicate a desiccant bag failure which would require flushing the condenser. I would also change all the o rings in the system. Add an oil charge to the accumulator, evacuate it and test the system.

Thank you! Great advice!

So maybe not so crazy to at least try with this one? (Assuming everything seemed to check out from your recommendations)