Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
We'll talk...


The main reason for running those rub rails from MC is partly the same as what you're asking and that is a little standoff to keep things off your body. I might be wrong here but that's how I see it.

The difference between Metalcloak flares and a functional rub rail has everything to do with leverage and profile. Flares are not rub rails, nor should they be treated as rub rails.

The reasoning behind this is very similar to why some chop the tube steps off of the Genright mini boatsides.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and Fluxor
I can confirmthat MC flares do no serve as a slider. I had a buddy crack the driver side fender bc he rocked the flares at the gulches. The trail pretty much pushed the flare into the body and did some damage.

IMG_4267.jpeg
 
I can confirmthat MC flares do no serve as a slider. I had a buddy crack the driver side fender bc he rocked the flares at Windrock. The trail pretty much pushed the flare into the body and did some damage.

The same would be true for any rigid flare.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jamesval035
I built a bender for the rub rail a few months ago but it did more kinking when bending then I liked. I redesigned it and it and REV 2 works really well, that's a win! The desired material is .75x1.25 6061 Bar Stock.

I over bent this test piece a small amount but the bend is nice and smooth. Cold forming this thickness is not easy and dialing in the radius of the inside die is very specific to this size.
IMG_0345.jpeg

IMG_0343.jpeg


Also started test fitting the inner fenders. You guys have spent a lot more time stuffing tires into fender wells testing what hits and what fits. If you have any personal experience in this area please post your thoughts I want the most real estate for goods but don't want the tires playing with parts they shouldn't. I like the larger radiuses and the direction. I need to make some small changes for battery clearance. The battery mount will be the same 304 stainless used on other parts.
IMG_0354.jpeg
IMG_0355.jpeg


Started messing with a 1.25" round bar stock rocker rub rail. I am waiting on quotes for the sample. Do you like the round stock or the rectangle stock? I would trim the rash guard and add a fastener.
1767128891771.png

1767128924781.png

1767128957150.png

1767129039911.png

1767129079148.png

1767129110533.png
 
Also started test fitting the inner fenders. You guys have spent a lot more time stuffing tires into fender wells testing what hits and what fits. If you have any personal experience in this area please post your thoughts I want the most real estate for goods but don't want the tires playing with parts they shouldn't. I like the larger radiuses and the direction. I need to make some small changes for battery clearance. The battery mount will be the same 304 stainless used on other parts.
View attachment 663363View attachment 663365

My comments; any way to make the shelf shallower and angle the other way? That'd allow room for relocated shock mounts. I think the crawlteks would be good to look at as a reference. I also know on a lot of fenders the back fender wall is an interference point with with tires.
Started messing with a 1.25" round bar stock rocker rub rail. I am waiting on quotes for the sample. Do you like the round stock or the rectangle stock? I would trim the rash guard and add a fastener.

Stock rectangle in my opinion.
 
The inner fender on the end near the battery tray seems to jut outward way too much. I think that should come straight down parallel with the end at the grille. I’m sure you know, but the GR one is angled inward. I also think their inner fender is better than their flare design. Nice work Flux!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Fluxor and tworley
  • Like
Reactions: sab and Fluxor
The pics I posted earlier are from a cross country trip I made to the high desert in the Utah canyon lands... I did not expect to be in mud at all lol... but it sure happened. :p

I was covered in mud because the Genright fenders do not give coverage for that, no one else in our group had the same issue.
View attachment 661084

pssshhhaaawwwww

1767152884197.png
 
Is that typical width you guys are running? Can those flares be easily removed for the trail? Are they Steel or Aluminum?

Right now I have 5.5” RC flares (which are similar to stock and slightly wider than Rubicon flares) on stock fenders. Tires stick out some but the RC flares work pretty well. I have a fairly standard set up (stock width axles, 12.5” wide tires on 8” wheels with 3.65” backspace). So I would vote for you to offer a 5-6” flare option.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fluxor and Wildman
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts